Topic: '73 cb350f siezed barn find!

[574hondarider]

Tank work looks really nice.....

How did you install the gas cap? Meaning which pins did you use?

Thank you!!  Hondaman gas cap bolts, had to cut them to size but not a big deal, worked nicely!

[WhyNot2]

Tank work looks really nice.....

How did you install the gas cap? Meaning which pins did you use?

Thank you!!  Hondaman gas cap bolts, had to cut them to size but not a big deal, worked nicely!

Cool, thanks.....

[574hondarider]

Baby steps but progress:

Wired up coils and rear lights to harness, cut plug wires and installed plug ends, installed ignition swith and horn, painted side logos, started polishing engine covers (not pictured).

This weekend hope to get valves installed, work on rebuilding oil pump and new clutch install.  That is, if my daily driver doesn't take up too much of my time doing maintenance!

My son the karoke star is excited to take a ride.  I told him I may just forego the engine and put pedals on her and make her into a bicycle!

[574hondarider]

Continuing to do lots of work to this bike.  I got new bars (thanks Hondaman!), cleaned up handlebar electronics and installed bars, freshly painted gauges, and wired up everything in the headlight bucket.  Put the top end together, and just have to set valve clearance and engine should be going into bike by Saturday.  Then just gotta throw the carbs in and run cables and front brake line and she should be all ready to start!!!

[Mark1976]

Looks really good.  Just took mine for a spin, its 60 degrees out here. Really looking forward to seeing this come together.

[574hondarider]

Looks really good.  Just took mine for a spin, its 60 degrees out here. Really looking forward to seeing this come together.

Thanks Mark!  I am eager to get it done too!  I took my red 350F out the other day when it was in the 50's, developed a tach seal leak over winter, I think it's just jealous that I gave this bike so much attention this winter!  I am pretty nervous about the build since I used C.I. pistons and rings after having since read about all the issues others seam to have. 

[WhyNot2]

Man, no kidding, you have done an excellent job.

Wish I could get up off my lazy azz, and get my little 350 going.

Carbs have to come off again on mine due to peeing all over the ground when I turn the gas on.

Yours is looking great. Also, can't wait to see how it turns out.

[574hondarider]

Man, no kidding, you have done an excellent job.

Wish I could get up off my lazy azz, and get my little 350 going.

Carbs have to come off again on mine due to peeing all over the ground when I turn the gas on.

Yours is looking great. Also, can't wait to see how it turns out.

Thanks!  Have you ran it for awhile and it still does it?  From what I gather and from my experience, they all do that until the carbs are hydrated, take it for a spin and it should solve the issue.  If not, sounds like float height adjustment.  I have also polished the float needle seat using a q-tip, drill and some metal polish which I hope will help with that.

[WhyNot2]

I can't get it started just yet...........seems a new battery is in the near future.

But thanks for the info.

[carnivorous chicken]

Man, no kidding, you have done an excellent job.

Wish I could get up off my lazy azz, and get my little 350 going.

Carbs have to come off again on mine due to peeing all over the ground when I turn the gas on.

Yours is looking great. Also, can't wait to see how it turns out.

Carbs could be a few things, including float height or valves, but also cracked overflow tubes, sticking floats, or what I have just chased down -- the o-rings for the t-joint and other two joints between the carb are old and have dried up -- the carbs sat dry for two years or so. Taking carbs off of these things is such a PITA with stock airbox, but for me replacing those is gonna do it. Have the o-rings ordered.

Thanks!  Have you ran it for awhile and it still does it?  From what I gather and from my experience, they all do that until the carbs are hydrated, take it for a spin and it should solve the issue.  If not, sounds like float height adjustment.  I have also polished the float needle seat using a q-tip, drill and some metal polish which I hope will help with that.

[574hondarider]

Engine Is In!!!  All wired up, drive chain installed and adjusted, carbs in and hydrated, exhaust installed.  Now just gotta get the clutch cable, throttle cables, and front brake installed, tidy up a few misc things, and she will be good to go for a first start in 40 years!!!  I'm off Friday so hoping that will be the big day for me.

[Mark1976]

Looking great, keep up the good work.

[jakec]

Damn I need to step it. Did you split the cases?

[574hondarider]

Damn I need to step it. Did you split the cases?

No, just top end, oil pump rebuild and new clutch.  Get on it, spring's coming!!!

[jakec]

I know! I've been procrastinating big time. Your bike's looking great

[WhyNot2]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^........me too......^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[574hondarider]

Got handlebars cut (1/2" too long on ends) and installed grips, clutch and throttle cables.

Question:  I have adjusted the clutch cable and clutch adjustment to spec.  However, when I'm going through the gears, I can hear a click with the foot shifter but it doesn't actually switch gears until you rotate the wheel a little.  Also, with the clutch pulled back, there is a lot more resistance on the wheel when spinning the wheel than what is on my other cb350f (I understand with the clutch lever engaged it's not going to be as free as being in neutral).  So, the clutch adjustment nut was screwed in until tight then backed off 1/4 of a turn.  Which way would I go to make the clutch engage more?  Is this what needs to happen, or is it just because I have brand new oem honda clutch plates and oem honda springs and I need to ride it and it will wear in?

BTW, still haven't started it.  I have to just adjust plug gaps and do a points adjustment then I will try to fire her up!  Also still need to install the front brakes before I drive it.

[Mark1976]

So, first things first.
Its called rebuild anxiety, finish what you started.
   Get the front brake finished,  that way once you pull the trigger and start your project for the 1st time you'll be able to set the dwell, timing and sync the the carbs and take out for a shake down ride.
   Your not going to be able to diagnose the clutch until you do that, its possible that there maybe an issue but, i doubt it, you attention to detail on this build has been very good. A new clutch can have a significant amount of drag when initially installed and that can affect static shifting (when its not running). The only thing that comes to mind when reinstalling a new clutch that some people miss, is reinstalling the belleville washer the wrong way.
   If there is still an issue with clutch drag after that, pulling the clutch cover is really minor, I had a Barnett clutch years ago that was a real bear to initially set up on a previous 400f. Anything is possible when you attack this many things at one time. Get it running, take it for a spin,  go from there.
Just my two cents.

[574hondarider]

So, first things first.
Its called rebuild anxiety, finish what you started.
   Get the front brake finished,  that way once you pull the trigger and start your project for the 1st time you'll be able to set the dwell, timing and sync the the carbs and take out for a shake down ride.
   Your not going to be able to diagnose the clutch until you do that, its possible that there maybe an issue but, i doubt it, you attention to detail on this build has been very good. A new clutch can have a significant amount of drag when initially installed and that can affect static shifting (when its not running). The only thing that comes to mind when reinstalling a new clutch that some people miss, is reinstalling the belleville washer the wrong way.
   If there is still an issue with clutch drag after that, pulling the clutch cover is really minor, I had a Barnett clutch years ago that was a real bear to initially set up on a previous 400f. Anything is possible when you attack this many things at one time. Get it running, take it for a spin,  go from there.
Just my two cents.

Thanks Mark!  Yeah, lots of anxiety over this build!!  I don't recall this one having a cupped washer, just a flat one, but could be wrong (hope not!).  This is all new territory for me.  So would I have time then to sync the carbs before seating in the rings, or jump on it and get some revs in and then come back and sync, since it's supposed to be done on a warm engine?  I'm probably over thinking it, to be honest.  :-)

[Mark1976]

   You've done a really good job,  its normal to feel that way. If you've bench sync'd the carbs real well and done a good job of statically setting the ignition, it'll start right up. Once it starts let it warm up a bit 2-3 minutes. (have a fan fan on hand if your concerned about how hot it may get)
   Do the dwell (gap) and timing first, l always have the timing light and dwell meter already hooked up, by the time your done with that it ought idle fine, if you have any issues with the idle, (ie. high or hanging idle) deal with it now, then hook up what ever you have for syncing the carbs, again, if the bench sync is good they'll be remarkably close. Once thats done (hypothetically) your good to go.
   I've had bikes, on first start and the timing is set, then just go for that first ride. If you've spent that extra effort when assembling and setting it up it can be a relatively uncomplicated process. Keep it up.

[574hondarider]

Today I got to start and ride the bike!! 

The Good:  I put about 15 miles on it and she runs great!  Started right away, pulls better and shifts tighter and smoother than my other 350F.  Had some good pulls to about 7000 rpms. 

The not so Good: I haven't synced the carbs yet besides bench sync.  I can tell it needs it as it has a bit of erratic idle which I know a sync will fix.  I noticed some cam chain noise so I adjusted it out a little bit.  After doing so I noticed a bit of smoke coming from the exhaust, not billowing smoke, but enough to notice and when I parked it in the garage and came back a few minutes later I could smell that it had burnt some oil.

The funny:  I had switched the dummy lights for neutral and oil light, so immediately when the oil light didn't go out I thought I had a pressure issue, sent me into an hour long tail spin, until I noticed the neutral light going out occasionally, and I realized I switched the wiring around!!!



Next steps:  Sync the carbs.  I'm not sure if that smoke will go away with a carb sync, or if it needs more miles until the rings seat, or if it is a sign of things to come....I'm hoping it just goes away.  No oil leaking from any other area that I can see.  Also should probably peak at the plugs to see how they are doing.  Any other thoughts??

Thanks to everyone who helped me with my first full scale rebuild!!  Without this forum, and youtube, there is no way I would have had the confidence to do a project like this!!  My technical skills has increased 10 fold in the last 6 months and now I don't feel afraid to tackle any project with these old bikes!

[Mark1976]

         Congrats on finishing and taking that first ride, it was really great watching this come together, these small bore bikes are plenty of fun.

[jakec]

I thought you were supposed to keep the RPMs down for like 500 miles?

Bike looks awesome.

[seanbarney41]

I thought you were supposed to keep the RPMs down for like 500 miles?

Bike looks awesome.

7000 rpm is pretty low for those little screamers

[WhyNot2]

Bike looks great.

Especially like those pipes. Did you have any trouble installing them?