Topic: Rear brake serviceable limit

[evinrude7]

Is this an indication that I need to replace rear shoes? See photo. Adjusting nut is cranked all the way down. Adjusted the chain.  Tension seems good.

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[seanbarney41]

Pedal and/ or lever can be on the wrong splines

[evinrude7]

Pedal and/ or lever can be on the wrong splines

thought about that.  seems the lever only goes in one spot.  when reassembling last winter seemed the pedal had a sweet spot on the splines but i'll try again. 

[bryanj]

lever will move 1 spline

[evinrude7]

lever will move 1 spline

yes indeed.  thanks bryan.

Pedal and/ or lever can be on the wrong splines

thanks sean.  think i got a spline out of each. 

[pjlogue]

There should be punch marks on the brake lever and shaft it goes on.  Punch marks should line up.  Same with brake actuator arm and its shaft.  I seem to remember the actuator shaft and arm having a section where it was not splined as to make the shaft and arm go together in only one position. 

I also seem to remember the the rod from the actuator arm to the brake pedal shaft if it was put on wrong (end turning down) the rod was too long.  The brake rod arm that attaches to the brake pivot shaft should turn up.  I also remember that being a real pain to put together with the return spring.  LOL.

-P.

[evinrude7]

There should be punch marks on the brake lever and shaft it goes on.  Punch marks should line up.  Same with brake actuator arm and its shaft.  I seem to remember the actuator shaft and arm having a section where it was not splined as to make the shaft and arm go together in only one position. 

I also seem to remember the the rod from the actuator arm to the brake pedal shaft if it was put on wrong (end turning down) the rod was too long.  The brake rod arm that attaches to the brake pivot shaft should turn up.  I also remember that being a real pain to put together with the return spring.  LOL.

-P.

Look closely at the photo where the lever attaches to the hub. I guess K6 uses a mark that you line the split on the lever up with.  Also seems bryanj was right.  I got the lever to move one more spline. Made the brake adjustable now.

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[BenelliSEI]

It’s also important to get the brake lever arm (on the rear hub) pointing down and a bit to the rear. On a clock face, the 7:00 o’clock position when looking at it.  If it is too far ahead of centre when actuated, you get very poor performance due to lack of leverage.....

[PeWe]

My K2 build got that a little bit wrong but it work really well. Old Honda marked brake shoes have a nice bite despite they were old and used but still not much wear. My other bike with cheap shoes is not that good, only no brake, just a little to sudden locked wheel.
I think the arm on hub need to be adjusted. Brake needs to be taken apart complete at next tire change to make it match with marks.  I blame the assembly of parts never seen each other before

[pjlogue]

You should measure your wear on both the steel inner drum diameter and the shoe thickness to be sure you don't go past the wear limit.  Over worn brakes can cause a lockup of the rear wheel if the cam actuator inside the drum goes past it's flat spot on the cam. 

-P.

[evinrude7]

thanks for all the tips.  benelli the lever is past 6 o'clock but not quite at 7.  winter is coming and have some other things to do to the bike.  i'll save opening up the rear for then. 

[bryanj]

Was a "standard workshop adjustment" back in the 70's BUT when you do move the arm you order new shoes for next time the wheel is out, i have even been known to carefully remove 1spline frome the arm to move it 2 but no more than that!

[maxheadflow]

If you look closely at the dust cover on the brake backing plate, there is an arrow. The backing plate has a line on it.  If when the brakes are pressed the arrow points to the line, it's time to replace the shoes.

[evinrude7]

I also seem to remember the the rod from the actuator arm to the brake pedal shaft if it was put on wrong (end turning down) the rod was too long.  The brake rod arm that attaches to the brake pivot shaft should turn up.  I also remember that being a real pain to put together with the return spring.  LOL.

-P.

P - after rereading what you wrote above i'm going to take a look at that.  while it was off on the splines by 1 or 2 i wonder if when reassembling last winter i installed the brake rod arm incorrectly.  still have to move the pedal more than an inch to feel the brake grab.  it's certainly better than it was when starting this thread.   

[pjlogue]

When I restored my 750  ~4 years ago I remember the brake rod and arm giving me problems as having the rod end turned up just looked backward to me for some reason so I installed it pointing down and then had difficulty fitting up the rod to the back brake arm.  I finally figured out the rod end needed to point up.  Aside from the mistake I made, I had the joy of having to install the brake pedal and spring again.  Very little room to work and even less room for "forgiveness" getting the spring on while under tension. Almost as much fun as attaching the center stand spring while the bike is on the side stand.  LOL.

-P.