Topic: Gouged rotor

[kakon864]

I took the rotor off when rebuilding my cb550 to find that it has a gouge in it. It is not super deep, but I'm not sure if it's usable due to balance reasons. It would appear the last person to have this bike running was using it as such.

Also wanted to ask if this spark advance will clean up and be usable?

Thanks.

[bryanj]

Seem way worse of both so should be ok. The rotors are a fairy rough cast simply machined part and it may well have been a flaw from new, soak advancer in diesel for a while

[DaveBarbier]

Agree on the rotor, that’s fine. The advancer is probably fine too but the only thing is that it appears to be seized in the advance position. When you get it all clean and running, keep an eye on the springs. It looks like they have been stretched for some time and might not have their original ‘springiness’ to them...meaning your advance might kick in too early. Just something to keep in the back of your head.

[kakon864]

Good to hear. I will keep the springs in mind. Thanks!

[Scott S]

 If the advance springs are weak, trim off about 1/2 a coil on each and bend the end back around the post.

 I'd definitely disassemble the mechanism and clean and oil it. Don't lose the thin shim under the points cam. And line up the dot on the points cam when you put it back together.

[kakon864]

If the advance springs are weak, trim off about 1/2 a coil on each and bend the end back around the post.

 I'd definitely disassemble the mechanism and clean and oil it. Don't lose the thin shim under the points cam. And line up the dot on the points cam when you put it back together.

There was not a shim under the points cam when I took it off the first time. Is there supposed to be?

[Scott S]

It's very thin. It often sticks to the base. Or, it could have been lost.

[kakon864]

It's very thin. It often sticks to the base. Or, it could have been lost.

Maybe I didn't see it, I will check when I take it off to clean it. If it is lost how would I get one or would it work without it? I can't seem to find one in the parts diagram or for sale online.

[bryanj]

Its not listed as a seperate part

[kakon864]

Does the washer go in between the points cam and the crank shaft because if so it is indeed missing and when you say line up the dots do you mean the alignment pin on the back or is there a different mark? Also I got the spark advancer soaking in pb blaster, so hopefully it frees up. What parts are supposed to move? Does the plate with the timing marks supposed to move freely or not. I don't want to try to move something  I shouldn't and break it.

[Kelly E]

Get yourself some Evaporust. Soak the advancer plate and it will come out looking like new. Springs should be ok, holding a position isn't bad for them cycling thousands of times is.

[Scott S]

 The shim is under the points cam, which is part of the advance mechanism.  Once you free up yours so the arms and springs move, you can twist the cam and it will actually pull up and off the advancer plate. The shim is underneath.  The arms and springs will stay on the plate, unless you specifically remove them, too.

 Here's a good thread that shows the cam dot installation.

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=33106.0

[Scott S]

 BTW,  I think they're showing a 360 twin advancer, but the pics show the dot I'm talking about.  You should be able to see it on yours once it's clean.

[kakon864]

I got it all cleaned up. I took all the parts off, cleaned and lubricated them, then reassembled. The points cam now moves smoothly and freely (also found the alignment dot). Thanks for the advice!

[kakon864]

So I made this thread a while ago, but I wanted to kind of update it. 2 months later the bike is all finished up and setting the timing so I can go out and break it in. I can get 1 and 4 to set properly, but for 2 and 3 the timing light(just a light bulb) wont go out no matter how far the plate is adjusted. It might just be 180 degrees backwards or maybe the alignment pin is bent. I also confirmed that both points gaps are set properly at the highest point on the lobe.

[RAFster122s]

Daichi points are notorious for not being able to set them without bending them. If they are made in China and have the little three petal flower/ propeller logo then to e to buy some TEC points and condensers for the bike.
Check to ensure the wiring is not contacting the base plate or touching where it is not suppose to touch. If the light is not going off the you do not have that points set set correctly.

[kakon864]

They are not daichi points, but are cheap chinese ones I assume. Was around $16 on the 4 into 1 site...

[kakon864]

Put the old points back on with the new condensers and got it running  . Rode it around my yard for a minute and then was about to go break it in and then it died all of the sudden. Starts right back up, but dies immediately if you give it any throttle, That might have just been a lack of fuel problem (has a double output petcock with 1 port blocked with a vac plug and doesn't always like to flow), because I started it up the next day with confirmed full fuel bowls and didn't really like to idle, but was fine if I give it a decent bit of gas. Pretty sure it's the slow jets on the carb, because that's the one thing I did not fully take out and clean.

[Scott S]

 If you have a dual outlet petcock and single inlet carbs, you would be better off running a brass T and feeding both outlets into the carbs.