Topic: CB400F LED DRL/flasher bulbs

[Alaxy Galaxy]

Hey, is anyone using LED flasher bulbs?

I'd like to install overgrip warmers, and to save what little power I have available on my 400/4, I was going to install LED bulbs wherever I can (except the headlight). The gauge illumination as well as the licence plate/brake light are pretty simple, but the front DRLs are shared with the flashers, and I feel like I'm going down a rabbit hole converting the bike to LED flasher bulbs.

I'd either need to put load resistors across the flasher part of the bulbs (which would be simple enough) or buy an LED-compatible flasher unit, but the reviews on the Chinese Amazon stuff is not very convincing.

[Deltarider]

In short: it's not worth it. Overgrip warmers will simply draw too much. Keep it simple. Thicker gloves maybe?

[Alaxy Galaxy]

In short: it's not worth it. Overgrip warmers will simply draw too much. Keep it simple. Thicker gloves maybe?

Yeah, I was worried that might be the best course of action. I've got Raynaud's Disease (thanks dad!) and anything below 20 celcius, even with ski gloves and thick clothing, I start to lose all feeling in my fingers after about 15 minutes of riding. It's kind of nerve-racking not being able to "feel" the movement of either hand levers.

The cheap overgrips I found apparently consume 7.5W of power each, so 15W total and if I swap out the 7 bulbs I mentioned, I calculated I can consume 24W less power, so I *should* be within range...

But real-world experience trumps Internet data any day.

[FourUsTry]

I did a similar conversion of all the bulbs except the headlight (and put in a 35W/35W H4 assembly there) to lower the draw on my 550. Delta may be right that it isn't enough for a large extra load like the warmers but if the math adds up then it should work, at least without too much stop & go traffic.

The flasher unit is an easy swap. The only hassle is that if you have a single flasher instrument bulb you need a mod for that but there are threads up here somewhere that cover it (my K4 has separate L/R indicator bulbs so I didn't need that). Here's what I am using and it is working great (all are from SuperBrightLEDs.com):

  Instrumentation
Speedometer: BA9S-WW-120-12VAC (shorter than BA9SF -- fits better)
Tachometer: BA9SF-WW-12VAC
Inidcators: BA9S-?-120-12VAC where ? is G, A, or R for color

Turn Signals / Running Lights
Front: 1157-A18-T-2PK
Rear: 1156-A18-T-2PK
LED-compatible flasher relay: LF1-S-PIN
  The gray wire connects to the terminal marked "L"
  If you connect this wrong it will blow the flasher out

Taillight
SuperBrightLEDs.com: 1157-NW27-T

[Bodi]

400F has separate flasher idiot lights so no issue there. You could just unplug the marker lights: with normal bulbs the load is a lot higher than for LEDs, but only while the signal is flashing. Avoids the need for a new flasher.
Check that the stop light is bright enough with the LED bulb. Many are pathetically dim. Superbright LED types should be good, I use one (forget the # but it has one 3 or 5 watt LED that dims for tail and is very bright indeed for stop).
As long as you use a 35W headlight (OEM type, and H4 lamps are available) and don't use a Dyna S or similar ignition that keeps the coils on 99% of a revolution... you should be OK on the power budget. It will discharge the battery below 3000RPM or so but barring traffic jams or extensive urban stop/go riding that should not be a concern.

[gary p.]

I noticed heated gloves at HD yesterday.  They are powered by a small battery that fits in your pocket. 

I’m thinking about those for my rides.  In cold weather I feel it in my chest, so I was looking at vests.   Maybe both for me this year.

Enjoy the ride