Topic: Neutral Safety removal

[Dolomite]

Neutral safety switch is acting up and I'd like to get it out to clean/ replace. Does anyone have any tricks for removing it with the engine in the frame? I've tried to get a wrench in there without any luck.

[Johnie]

What bike? The CB750 switch comes out easily with the motor in the frame.

[bryanj]

Do you mean the neutral light switch or the starter safety switch as there is no such thing as a neutral safety switch

[Dolomite]

76 motor in a 78 frame. Yes the neutral indicator switch/ starter safety switch/ neutral safety switch, all mean the same thing. The metal ball that sita in a housing below the transmission.

[pjlogue]

76 motor in a 78 frame. Yes the neutral indicator switch/ starter safety switch/ neutral safety switch, all mean the same thing. The metal ball that sita in a housing below the transmission.

You do realize that the neutral indicator switch is different from the safety start circuit that monitors the neutral indicator switch.  They are not the same thing.

-P.

[Johnie]

The "metal ball" thing you talked about is what is easy in a 69-76 frame. Not sure what the 78 frame looks like.

[seanbarney41]

The "metal ball" thing you talked about is what is easy in a 69-76 frame. Not sure what the 78 frame looks like.

well then tell us how as it is right above the frame tube so that nothing can get a straight shot at it

[Dolomite]

76 motor in a 78 frame. Yes the neutral indicator switch/ starter safety switch/ neutral safety switch, all mean the same thing. The metal ball that sita in a housing below the transmission.

You do realize that the neutral indicator switch is different from the safety start circuit that monitors the neutral indicator switch.  They are not the same thing.

-P.

They all function together. You can be in neutral, but if the switch isn't reading it and the light isn't on, the electric starter won't turn over. There would be no point if they operated on independent circuits. The neutral light is just a visual indicator that the motor is in neutral amd the starter can be safely turned over. If you would like I can highlight the route on the wiring diagram. Everyone knew what was being referenced so please refrain from the condescending attitude.

[Bodi]

There are a couple of starter safety systems - one is just a single diode, the other is a more complicated circuit in a little case. If you can ensure you don't start the engine is gear while it's pointed somewhere unsafe, you can disable it: I don't really advise that.
There are two switches - the clutch lever switch that grounds the starter solenoid relay when the clutch is disengaged (the relay is powered from the start button), and the neutral switch that grounds the neutral light when in neutral. The starter safety circuit looks at both and won't allow electric start in gear with clutch engaged. The switches can't be connected directly together as that would light the neutral switch whenever the clutch is disengaged.
To disable it, just ground the solenoid relay wire directly (the wire that normally goes to the clutch switch).
If you're talking about a faulty neutral switch, it's a different problem and the safety circuit isn't really involved except you will need to pull in the clutch lever for electric start and the neutral light won't work. The diode type can stop working if the diode fails, the other type has more failure modes, but both are pretty reliable. Usually you can't electric start in neutral, or you can but the neutral light comes on with the clutch lever pulled in.

[Dolomite]

Traced wiring diagram. On the 77/78 the state of the neutral switch effects both.

[scottly]

To remove the neutral switch from a 750 in the frame, you first disconnect the wire, then remove the 6mm bolt and retainer plate, and then pull the switch down with a twisting motion. It helps if the trans is in neutral first.

[Dolomite]

To remove the neutral switch from a 750 in the frame, you first disconnect the wire, then remove the 6mm bolt and retainer plate, and then pull the switch down with a twisting motion. It helps if the trans is in neutral first.

That part I have figured out. Its being able to get to the bolt while the motor is in the frame that I am looking for any tricks on, short of placing a jack under the motor and removing the front mounting bolts.

[HondaMan]

One thing we are experiencing with these 750s nowadays is: the Neutral Switches' contacts are getting corroded from long sitting and exposure to moisture. You can replace them with new ones, which are still being made because they are used in a Honda inboard-outboard engine for boats (Neutral Switch there, too). The switch can also be disassembled, cleaned (clean the little steel ball inside, polish it to remove the crud and rust) and reassembled, and re-sealed: use a good glue like Gas Tank Sealer (and work fast...) to do this part.

In both the K3 version (with the "safety module") and the later versions with the diode separating the clutch switch from the Neutral Indicator, the current thru the switch is very low, so just a little corrosion makes them stop working. The Switch is also in the bottom of the engine, collecting the worst grit, which doesn't help...sometimes I have fixed them by just cleaning them from the ball side with carb spray, spinning the ball and cleaning it. The ball is the contact device, as well as the tranny Neutral Detent and Switch actuator, all in one.

[Don R]

 The Goldwing guys wire a light bulb in series to increase the amp draw that sometimes makes them work again. They are behind the frame on the early gl's.

[johans]

The last time i removed one i used a tap on a t handle and pulled straight down w/ a little twisting motion to overcome the resistance of the o ring . It worked great , i used the old o ring ( it was not leaking ) and it was a lot easier to install.  Trying it w/o the tap it was a real pita.    There are also small holes that you can insert snap ring pliers into and adjust the depth of the business end of the switch , i tried that b4 i pulled the switch to see if it would help ( it didn't) .

[pjlogue]

If you can get an open end wrench on the bolt you may be able to loosen it with putting a torch on the case and using penetrating oil.  If you can loosen it try cleaning the switch case and retaining plate so you have good ground contact.  That may solve your problem without having to fully remove the switch.

-P.

[bryanj]

You are not fully understanding the system, to start EITHER the neutral light is on OR the clutch lever is pulled they are two different syyems that join electrically in one place

[enwri]

To remove the neutral switch from a 750 in the frame, you first disconnect the wire, then remove the 6mm bolt and retainer plate, and then pull the switch down with a twisting motion. It helps if the trans is in neutral first.

That part I have figured out. Its being able to get to the bolt while the motor is in the frame that I am looking for any tricks on, short of placing a jack under the motor and removing the front mounting bolts.

[my name is nobody]

To get the retainer bolt loose, use a 1/4 inch drive universal and a 10mm socket. An extension of about six inches should be enough to get
at the bolt. Use tape around the universal joint if it is too "floppy" It takes a little finess, but is doable, and the bolt can be reinstalled the same way.