Topic: Newbie trying to get my bikes timing setup correctly

[rocs]

Hey guys,

So i pulled a stuck engine and got it free after being semi-seized for about 20+ years. I got everything cleaned up everything and put it all back together and got it running. Once i confirmed it was running, i took the engine out and pulled the timing plate off, pulled the advancer assembly, and the cylinder shapped piece that attaches to it (red circle).

Im trying to set my points up correctly using the TDC and F (Fire) point markings on the crankcase/rotor. I am doing something wrong because when i set the mark to T (TDC) my point opening is at its furthest. I then go one more revolution over to get my marking set on the F point. Using a test light, i get it to light up at the slightest opening of the point. However, when i tighten it up and spin a revolution, the light stays on most of the time.

Am i understanding this correctly? The light should only appear on the test light when the marking is exactly at the F mark? or does it stay on for most of the revolution?

[rocs]

Can that advance assembly be installed wrong? The cylinder piece that hex bolt/washer screws into that snaps in the assembly, can that be snapped in different ways?

[Tracksnblades1]

Closed points complete the coils' primary circuit to ground.
When the points open the coil's secondary discharges to the sparkplugs.

[Tracksnblades1]

Should be a pin that indexes advancer...

[bryanj]

Yes the cam can be 180 degrees out, you set the points gap at 14 thou  when poits are at their widest gap and the bulb shoul light as the F lines up with the static line. NOW moving the points plate frequently alters the gap and altering the gap will move the timing so it takes quite some time and patience to get BOTH set correctly and them you start on the other set of points. When doing it for a living i could fit 2 new sets of points set and time the whole thing in about 15 mins, now its about 30 and for a "newbie" i would expect a minimum of 90.
After the F mark the light will stay on till the points close.

Hope that helps

[rocs]

Yes the cam can be 180 degrees out, you set the points gap at 14 thou  when poits are at their widest gap and the bulb shoul light as the F lines up with the static line. NOW moving the points plate frequently alters the gap and altering the gap will move the timing so it takes quite some time and patience to get BOTH set correctly and them you start on the other set of points. When doing it for a living i could fit 2 new sets of points set and time the whole thing in about 15 mins, now its about 30 and for a "newbie" i would expect a minimum of 90.
After the F mark the light will stay on till the points close.

Hope that helps

Thanks this does help with understanding how the light remains on after the F mark until the points close.

The bike i am currently working on only has one set of points. SO i don't have to get two configured here luckily.

[Scott S]

 One set of points? What bike are we talking about here?

[rocs]

One set of points? What bike are we talking about here?

Busted......

figured id get quick responses in here. Been at this bike for weeks and got selfish out of desperation.

CL100..