At the risk of being accused of sacrilege, the case was shot. The number 4 rod dropped the connector and bent the rod and gouged the crank channels. This is the 2nd motor table I've made (first was a 4.2V8 table) and thought I'd share. I used a TC bros motor stand as the base since I already had one and just lined the bottom with nonslip fabric for table and chair legs. I degreased and cleaned the engine as much as possible using a power washer, without getting in there with a wire brush or anything because it won't be subject to outdoor use. Once everything was bolted together it was given a healthy dose of rustoleum self etching primer and given a full 24 hours after the final coat to dry. Then rustoleum high performance enamel stainless spray paint was costed on liberally over several days to try and fill in as many rough spots and defects as possible. After drying for 24 hours it was coated in clear coat enamel. The valve cover will be given glass table bumpers for the top to sit on for the front of the motor. The rear support I disassembled 2 of the pistons from their conrods and attached them to the other set upside down as shown in the photo. They're mounted to the the rear upper motor mounts with a threaded rod. I cut the two removed wrist pins down to the width of the conrod making a perfect spacer. I did end up notching the back side of the piston heads to give them enough room to sit level to support the glass. Glass will be arriving next week, 18x26 to cover the base perfectly with a little overhang. Once the glass arrives and I can set it level and proper I will be torquing the rod down completely with some nord lock washers so they don't slip under the weight.
I already had the paint and the stand so total cost was about $10 in hardware (to join the two conrods and the nord washers)
