Topic: 750 K0 first start, HAS oil pressure

[Tews19]

After almost 1 year I heard my motor run after a complete rebuild. She idles high as hell but still runs. I pulled the tappet covers and the top end looks dry. I did prime the engine but to no avail, no oil on the top end.

Any suggestions?

[kerryb]

Did you pull the pump and prime it separatley? I had to do that once, but it was on a k-8.  It did make the difference though.

p.s. congrats on the first start.

[Tews19]

Did you pull the pump and prime it separatley? I had to do that once, but it was on a k-8.  It did make the difference though.

p.s. congrats on the first start.

I swapped in new o rings on the oil pump. I guess I'll look into pulling the pump to see if that's the issue.

[seanbarney41]

nick, did the oil pressure light go out?  Did you have a pressure gauge hooked up?  How long did you let it run?

[BenelliSEI]

Had the same problem with my K0. Drop the pan and pump, prime it and it will come up.

[Tews19]

nick, did the oil pressure light go out?  Did you have a pressure gauge hooked up?  How long did you let it run?

The light has gone off. Before starting it was on. I can't have it run long as I need to lower the idle. It's around 5k at the moment. Pressure gauge? Not sure what you mean?

[Tews19]

Had the same problem with my K0. Drop the pan and pump, prime it and it will come up.

Sounds dumb, if I drop the pan, how do I prime it?

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Are you using an oil pressure gauge on the oil galley by the points to show actual pressure vs just the dummy light?

Drain the oil from the pan (if there is oil in it!), drop the oil pan and remove the pump. Soak it in oil covering the screen, turn the gear to burp out air and reinstall making sure you have the O-rings in place. Pour 2 quarts down the drain holes in the head behind the caps in the valve cover to get plenty of oil into the pan.

 

[bhudders]

Couldn’t find a nice place to dump this decided to share it with my CB750 SOHC buddies it’s not long


Oh What A Pleasurable

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[Tews19]

Are you using an oil pressure gauge on the oil galley by the points to show actual pressure vs just the dummy light?

Drain the oil from the pan (if there is oil in it!), drop the oil pan and remove the pump. Soak it in oil covering the screen, turn the gear to burp out air and reinstall making sure you have the O-rings in place. Pour 2 quarts down the drain holes in the head behind the caps in the valve cover to get plenty of oil into the pan.

Only the dummy light Jerry. Someone recommended that I use a pressure gauge where you suggested as well.

I did remove all tappet covers. I used a syringe and squited 10mm of oil in each tappet.

[seanbarney41]

nick, did the oil pressure light go out?  Did you have a pressure gauge hooked up?  How long did you let it run?

The light has gone off. Before starting it was on. I can't have it run long as I need to lower the idle. It's around 5k at the moment. Pressure gauge? Not sure what you mean?

sooo, sounds like you probably have pressure which means there is nothing wrong with the pump.  Question is why would the top end still be dry?  Oil jets under the cam tower double, triple checked free and clear and assembled correctly with all 4 o-rings?  Did you use plenty of assembly lube on cam and rocker assembly?  Also, we really need to think about qantifying how long the bike ran with the valve train dry.  In seconds?  In minutes?  Was there excessive noise?  If you pushed the button, it fired quickly, shot to 5000rpm, and you shut it right off, quite possible oil has just not reached the cam.

[seanbarney41]

Make sure you have fixed your idle and thought about some of these questions before starting again.

[Tews19]

Make sure you have fixed your idle and thought about some of these questions before starting again.

I'll tackle the idle tomorrow. I got ahead of myself and the high idle was due to vacuum leak. I didn't tighten down the clamps earlier today. Now i tightened them and the idle is around 3k now. I can stnc the carbs but will need to set the timing first. I pulled the plug by the points cover,  oil poured out. The oil was cold though as the bike only ran for about 45 seconds.

Baby steps for now but I have time.

[Scott S]

Couldn’t find a nice place to dump this decided to share it with my CB750 SOHC buddies it’s not long


Oh What A Pleasurable

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 Should go here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,109172.0.html

[ekpent]

 You can tell a lot by looking in the oil tank while running also. There will be circulation and bubbles quickly if all is well.

[Tews19]

You can tell a lot by looking in the oil tank while running also. There will be circulation and bubbles quickly if all is well.

Thanks Eric.

[Tews19]

She has oil pressure!!!!!!. Took a while I think the amount of running time kept being cut short due to my own insecurity of not knowing the how the engine would be after a rebuild. This is my first 750 engine build literally from the cases up so I'm pretty happy with the result. No oil leaks. I do need to sync the carbs while I wait for the gauges to come in.

[Tews19]

She has oil pressure!!!!!!. Took a while I think due to the amount of running time kept being cut short due to my own insecurity of not knowing the how the engine would be after a rebuild. This is my first 750 engine build literally from the cases up so I'm pretty happy with the result. No oil leaks. I do need to sync the carbs while I wait for the gauges to come in.

[Deltarider]

Don't fixate on pressure! You want to have that oil up there at the cam. You can have oil pressure WITHOUT  oil arriving at the cam!!!

[Tews19]

Don't fixate on pressure! You want to have that oil up there at the cam. You can have oil pressure WITHOUT  oil arriving at the cam!!!

Ok, I should have expressed I have pressure on the cam and all the tappets are covered in oil.

[Don R]

 Congrats, now you can enjoy tuning it.