as far as the orings for the fuel connectors, because the carbs were apart i had to use what i had laying around. a super cheap china general oring kit buna n nitrile 8 dollars on ebay has orings close but just a little smaller dia. sort of a test to see how long they last.
as far as the brass nuts only the first one on the #1 carb came off, the other 3 were too tight, i tried heating one with a lighter, still nothing, i left them on, i didn't need to separate all carbs, so i took off the dust cover B's and the right throttle shaft (not the one with the pin side) then took off the stay plate screws and now spreading the bottoms of the carbs and pulling the stay plate off gets the plate off of 3 and 4 carbs and about the same time slide off the keyed throttle shaft lever on the right side instantly gave access to the T, pulled stiff oings off, cleaned the holes and put the buna n nitrile orings on, put the t back in, then all you got to do to separate the 3/4 pair, leaving the tops together spread the bottoms to get the fuel connector out and replace the orings. then to get carbs 1 and 2 out of the stay plate is while pulling away from the throttle shaft, the throttle levers give clearance to pull the carbs out, then same thing spread those while holding the plate, soon as they clear the connector tube, then twist the carbs leaving them parallel to get room to clean the connector holes. putting them together is a snap only this time place the carbs or press them together everything lines up so easy, the choke lever the choke plates the vent tubes every pushed together and hold them all in your lap, to slide the right side shaft lever back onto the key then they plate slips right over the fronts of the carbs. keep the carbs in pairs, if only replacing the orings, a complete disassembly would make the brass caps removal a must. didn't have to even bother with the springloaded ball socket joints, under those brass caps. worked good. it's possible my carb leak problems since the 80s were incorrectly diagnosed as bowl leaks that caused the floats to be set lean ( i'm at elevation anyways,) thinking it offset the orings that might not have been leaking. anyways another long story, i adjusted the floats couple days ago to be just flat with carb bodies and that measure 21 mm, they've always been on an angle that i measure at it's middle point before. not now, they all set just as the pin touches the float, it stops the gas, so my bowls are finally filled max with no leaks. if you crash these bikes even with no leaks and just say the tank stays on, the carbs are still going to pour gas out laying on its side, and if pinned under a car, it could be a hot departure to hopefully hitch a ride on the hale-bop comet if it's near enough to stop for another cool aid drinking passenger. that thing is gassed up all the time.
