Topic: Chain breaker and riveter for Primary chains

[gschuld]

I’m looking for a recommendation for a high quality set of tools to shorten endless JWiS (Audi/VW OEM) G68HPF-2 chain for primary chains.  I must be able to remove pins without damaging the pins or side plates, then reinstall.

I understand the really good ones are expensive. I’m OK with that.

Thanks,

George

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Looking forward to having you provide another option for us

[turboguzzi]

In the usa i gues it's motion pro

but have to ask, are you intending to replace chains already installed in a motor? hope not

second, cant think how you can remove pins without grinding them first, they are slightly mushroomed, cant see how theyll pass through plates and smaller bushing by simply pushing on them

[gschuld]

TG,

Chain work would be out of the engine.

I’m told the chains can be safely shortened by pressing the pins and reinserting and closing down the edges again.  I could be wrong though

George

[kmb69]

I’m looking for a recommendation for a high quality set of tools to shorten endless JWiS (Audi/VW OEM) G68HPF-2 chain for primary chains.  I must be able to remove pins without damaging the pins or side plates, then reinstall.

I understand the really good ones are expensive. I’m OK with that.

Thanks,

George

Not answering your original question but.........
I don't recommend using the version of that chain with the oil holes in the non-rotating rollers.
You can buy the version like Ted was selling in longer lengths with the rotating rollers for much less than he was selling them for.
Of course they have to be shortened - same as the ones you have pictured.
Probably don't need anything special to break them, just use 2 pins at the correct pitch to press a link out.
Have you found rivetable master links for these?

[turboguzzi]

I’m looking for a recommendation for a high quality set of tools to shorten endless JWiS (Audi/VW OEM) G68HPF-2 chain for primary chains.  I must be able to remove pins without damaging the pins or side plates, then reinstall.

I understand the really good ones are expensive. I’m OK with that.

Thanks,

George

Not answering your original question but.........
I don't recommend using the version of that chain with the oil holes in the non-rotating rollers.
You can buy the version like Ted was selling in longer lengths with the rotating rollers for much less than he was selling them for.
Of course they have to be shortened - same as the ones you have pictured.
Probably don't need anything special to break them, just use 2 pins at the correct pitch to press a link out.
Have you found rivetable master links for these?

Was going to say something similar but as i am not a 750 guy, doubted if i should....who knows maybe those chains are simply the best
but after reading KMB69 post, got to say, chains that have "rolled from sheet" rollers like in your pic are not heavy duty in my book, and in a primary drive spinning to 10K, an accident waiting to happen
proper ones should have solid tube rollers IMHO

[MessnerMoto]

I think I explained like 20 times story about HD chains.

There is a dedicated long thread about it on the forum started by me.

I even provided all the links where and what to buy.

Use cheap riveting tool from aliexpress to break and rerivet the chain. Use same pins.....No need for special links.

IWIS version of chain is much better with solid rollers and without hols... all the links are in thread

[PeWe]

Read the MessnerMoto primary chain thread. Good reading!

My CB750 K2 stocker got BMW  timing chains with holes. These have correct lenghts, no need to shorten, but not as strong as the chains MessnerMoto  recommend ln need of shortening since they do not sell in 68 links.
Probably same as Classic Cycle City sells as a kit.

I posted photos of stock chains, CCC chains and the BMW 68 links timing chains that have holes as CycleX chains.

[MessnerMoto]

one important thing about this HD chains is that they are not roller chains.... the increased strength in HD chain comes from increased diameter of pins... The skirt with oil hole is just that hardened  skirt it is not moving/rotating....

the chain without oil holes and solid skirt(without seam) has number   SWAG 30 93 9962.... but there should be no difference in strengths because both chains are made to industry standard G68HPF2... they are interchangeable in cars...

the confusion in brands and chain product numbers is because of merger of two companies but thats a different story

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4000386803676.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.4000386803676&aff_trace_key=f8109e41c4704df0ba69b45ffb74968f-1551371216033-05609-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=6789amp-RuSl25m2zPTJonJDAYN0yg1576097543253

[PeWe]

That tool has a riveting function too, right?

[MessnerMoto]

yep