Author Topic: 1974 Rickman Honda (Read 36973 times)

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #100 on:** March 12, 2020, 07:24:56 PM »

754......The Hindle sounds great!
Scott..... How and where did you order th 62” speedo cable from Motion Pro?

smcgill · « **Reply #101 on:** March 13, 2020, 08:42:04 AM »

Go to their website, should be a "custom cable "option.Double check that measurement will work for you. I've seen where some people mounted later instruments using the later black mounting plate. I think you would need to slot the holes slightly, then put 1" spacers and long bolts. You could use your later indicator lights that way also. Would eliminate the problem of fairing mounting the handle bar clamp lights. I just did it the hard way because of the pretty polished Rickman unicorn. Spacing the later bracket will put the instruments at a slightly flatter angle, and over the fork caps, should that matter to you.You could also make a slightly angled plate, and the spacers and late bracket. I've seen that too.
I like your idea of getting it ride able, then sorting it out. I don't envy you trying to re-locate the missing tabs.I'd sure be tempted to try that hot engine though!
Scott M.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #102 on:** March 13, 2020, 03:50:54 PM »

Scott..... thanks for all the good ideas! Much appreciated. I think i’ll Make an aluminum plate for a pair of K4-5 gauges and line up 4 small LED indicators under them. Next project, will document. Right now, reworking a stock battery box to hold fuse box, combo rectifier/ regulator, flashed, etc.

smcgill · « **Reply #103 on:** March 14, 2020, 10:14:58 AM »

My battery box plate, early wiring harness.

smcgill · « **Reply #104 on:** March 14, 2020, 10:27:01 AM »

PeWe · « **Reply #105 on:** March 14, 2020, 12:51:07 PM »

Shiny frame!! Look American but is made in England!
I met the Rickman brothers here 2014. They had their order books with them and verified visiting bikes with full history.

Shame I did not have a Rickman then.
More shame that I sold my Triumph 650 Metisse in parts back in 1983. I remember the shiny frame and fiberglass tank + seat + fender. Small money then

Too young to see the future, too busy with present time and my CB750 K6!!

smcgill · « **Reply #106 on:** March 14, 2020, 05:46:03 PM »

A former Rickman Bros. associate is still building kits in England, for Brit engines only. Fairly reasonable too.I also lusted for the 750 cr Honda back in the day,so when I saw an opportunity I took it. I also have an old Triumph if I feel the need to shift on the right. Scott M.

PeWe · « **Reply #107 on:** March 14, 2020, 11:24:09 PM »

That is under the name Metisse, right?

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #108 on:** March 15, 2020, 06:09:09 AM »

Scott .......thanks for the photos. Did you make or buy the footpegs and levers?

smcgill · « **Reply #109 on:** March 15, 2020, 08:02:11 AM »

Pewe; The kits are at 'Rickman Motorcycles",The name " Metisse" is licensed to another individual, who ,last I looked was selling complete modernized bikes.Greeves Ltd. bought the rights to M.P. [Metal Progressive], maker of the original Rickman 1 5/8" fork.They sell newer versions, including a roadrace model. I do not know if any parts interchange with the old forks.
John; I bought those about ten years ago for a 350 Benelli [Wards] project. The mounts are 1"x 5/16" machinable stainless. S.M.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #110 on:** March 15, 2020, 04:43:45 PM »

Scott ....... neat foot pegs. I have an original set, but will probably replicate the bolt on base, still using the original pedals. I’d like to get the footpegs a bit lower!

smcgill · « **Reply #111 on:** March 15, 2020, 05:50:22 PM »

I have the originals also, they need work, and they stick out farther. I'll fix them later. These are mounted on the lower bolt center, so about 1.5" lower. Billet doesn't look period , I know.
S.M.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #112 on:** March 15, 2020, 06:10:10 PM »

True..... but that 1.5” lower sounds very comfortable!

smcgill · « **Reply #113 on:** March 16, 2020, 07:29:26 AM »

My right foot will be fairly close to the muffler, may have to adjust back up a little. I think that's why the stock location is so high/out, to clear the stock Honda 4>4 upsweeps.That Hindle pipe is gorgeous, but the $ steers me to the Delkavic that Joe Cooley used.I've put studs in the K4 heads.I tried to fit a 4>1 welded header off my parts bike, no way would it go around the front downtubes. Are you going to try and replicate those missing rear frame hoops?
S.M.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #114 on:** March 16, 2020, 08:17:29 AM »

Scott...... I actually have those hoops! The previous owner kept every scrap of steel that was removed to lighten the bike. I’m not sure I will put them back. The frame looks so clean with out them and I’m staying with the single seat......

754 · « **Reply #115 on:** March 16, 2020, 01:15:44 PM »

Does the rear footage hoop, hold up the rear master cylinder ?

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #116 on:** March 16, 2020, 04:01:46 PM »

Yes it does...... my frame has two small tabs added for the rear master.

ctcycleworx · « **Reply #117 on:** March 17, 2020, 07:38:14 AM »

Nice build, keep up the good work.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #118 on:** March 17, 2020, 12:32:46 PM »

Thanks for the positive comment. Spent several hours today remounting and resetting the rear brake master. A really nice set of repro side covers arrived (vintagecb750.com), but the oil tank cover fouled the cap..... no one would believe how long even the smallest change leads to more work. The slight move meant I had to shorten the operating rod, reshape a pivot plate, and fabricate a mount for the brake light switch!

All the wiring is done, everything works! Bike runs and sounds GREAT on the Hindle pipes. Waiting for a small LED bar, planning to convert an early style tail light that was mysteriously missing the inside socket anyways. Next fab project is a mounting plate for the tach, speedo and warning lamps. Originally the Rickman has the 4X warning lights were screwed to the “dash” in the fairing. As Scott pointed out, they are a nuisance when installing/ removing the bodywork. I’m going to try and bring them back on the “tree”.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #119 on:** March 17, 2020, 05:32:20 PM »

Made a list of missing “brackets and bits”........

- 14 small ones for key switch, horn, air box, tool box, batt. box, turn signals and more.
- brackets for side and centre stand.
- extend front fairing mount, missing head light mounting portion.
- build new fairing side mounts (race fairing only used two X dzus fasteners, want stock look).
- lic. plate bracket below tail light.
- add tabs to stock battery box for updated ignition/ electrical components.
- fabricate tach and speedo mounting plate. Incorporate 4 X dash indicator lights.

Lot’s to do, but hey every place else is closed! Bike shows: cancelled. Club meeting: cancelled. Sunday breakfast get together......... cancelled. Planning to sneak off for first 2020 ride with a buddy, Friday. Assuming my 2008 KLR650 starts (and I know it will!).

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #120 on:** March 19, 2020, 01:53:49 PM »

Today I made up a “duraluminum” mounting plate for the tach and speedo. Drew the template at the dining table last night. Too bad I didn’t check it on the bike before marking and cutting! The gauges fit perfectly, the mounts line up, BUT...... The fork caps on the Rickman are huge hex head fittings and the plate doesn’t quite fit between them! More cutting and shaping to do and then I have to find 4 small dash lights to fit in as well. Picking away.

754 · « **Reply #121 on:** March 19, 2020, 02:42:07 PM »

Alway make a cardboard template first, when it fits, transfer it to metal. Cereal box cardboard is good.
Then you have a template to keep.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #122 on:** March 19, 2020, 04:23:18 PM »

Frank...... I did! Special K box. I usually punch all the hole centres with a sharp needle, tape the template down, scribe and punch centres right through it. Worked perfectly, but I never fitted the template to the bike. The “VEE” is a bit too spread. Doesn’t clear the huge fork caps. I’ll trim it tomorrow. Unless it’s a nice day. Got my KLR650 fired up and ready ride. Just in case.

UPDATE. Rained all day (hard) and huge winds. Finished the mounting plate, but no 1st Ride. Damn.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #123 on:** March 21, 2020, 09:46:39 AM »

Joe Cooley (he recently finished up his Rickman, see his build thread on this site) had an extra fuel tank, that he sold me. It arrived yesterday and keeps me moving ahead. I have molds for all my panels, and I want to make a new f’glass tank, with a copper liner. Next winter.

Finished up the bracket for the tach and speedo. Trimming it to get between the fork caps actually improved the look. I switched the tach to the LHS as the cable was a bit long. Need a custom, 62” speedo cable, to reach the rear wheel hub!

Now I have to find some nice warning lights to install in it. The original Rickman kit had provision for mounting the bar clamp style light cluster to the dash panel on the fairing (it’s zip tied under the tach and speedo for now). It’s a pain in the dash because it makes removing the fairing a lengthy, tedious job. I want to be able to pull my fairing in a few seconds. Turn signals mount to it, but a couple of double pole plugs will make that easy......

754 · « **Reply #124 on:** March 21, 2020, 01:12:42 PM »

Imo the tach/Speedo bracket could have been longer behind the mount bolts. And its sorta thin.
You did mention Duralminum or such .. if that is the case, that would be 7075, and will be strong.
Was it sorta steelike when you drilled and cut it, or real soft ?

In one of the pics you posted of your battery box, there appears to be a chainguard, maybe aluminum... is that on the bike ?

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Author Topic: 1974 Rickman Honda (Read 36973 times)