Author Topic: 1974 Rickman Honda (Read 35432 times)

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #75 on:** February 19, 2020, 03:55:26 PM »

777....... Thanks! I sat on it yesterday and truthfully, not sure how long I will last on it either! I was 21 years old when I first saw one (1974)and been searching ever since.

If you look closely, most Rickmans have the foot pegs mounted on a “T” shaped plate (the pegs are the centre leg of the T). I think I’m going to refurbish and store away the originals....... should be able to make a slightly longer bracket and hang the pedals from the bottom bolt. Even a 1.5” drop should help! Depending on fairing clearance, I may also make a set of bars that hang down a bit less too.

Race motor still available.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #76 on:** February 26, 2020, 05:06:03 PM »

Mounted up a new set of tires today. Needed a skinnier front to allow for the original f’glass Rickman fender. The race set up on this bike had a twin disc front set up. Both discs, and the rear where drilled. I swapped in the original Rickman front end, so swapped the disc from the rear to the front (solid one on the rear/drilled out front). Been looking for a spare, but they are unique to these bikes......

Working with a new harness and bar switches from Vintagecb750. The harness I picked has the red connector for the starter motor safety unit. I don’t want to use it (SMSU), but can’t find the post that showed how to wire a bypass in. Anyone?

JoeCooley · « **Reply #77 on:** February 28, 2020, 01:18:24 AM »

It can be bypassed. I think its green (ground) to green/red & white/red stripe. Leave yellow/red and black alone. Look at a diagram to confirm. I had to do it before.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #78 on:** March 01, 2020, 02:18:27 PM »

Got some decent shop time today! Pulled both wheels, cleaned them up and pulled off a set of rock hard, old race tires. The race bike had a drilled Rickman disc on the rear (both are the same size) but the one on the original front end (not used for many years on the race bike) was “stock”. Swapped them over and mounted/balanced new tires. The narrower section front tire allowed me to slip in an original Rickman front fender...... all fit really nicely. Next time, back to sorting wiring.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #79 on:** March 06, 2020, 12:32:41 PM »

Sorted wiring today. Complicated by the mismatch of bar controls to the new harness....... I want to be able to turn lights ON-OFF with the RHS switch, and the harness is a later style. It included a Starter Safety Unit too! Got it all sorted. Ignition, starter and lights are working. Next hurdle is the turn signals, then I should be able to fire it up. Bought a used gas tank from Joe Cooley, looking forward to seeing this bike “on the ground”.

Plan is to run it a few times this summer, braze on all the missing brackets and bits (for road trim), get everything just right. Then tear it all down for fresh bright nickel plating, Chrome, paint and finishes...... long project, but I am in no rush. Wanted one of these since 1974!

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #80 on:** March 07, 2020, 07:49:42 PM »

Been asked to post pictures of just the bare Rickman frame. Unfortunately these two are the closest I have........ Moved ahead too fast!

754 · « **Reply #81 on:** March 07, 2020, 08:36:17 PM »

I don't think I would be rushing to replate it..

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #82 on:** March 08, 2020, 07:41:21 AM »

Frank...... funny you say that. Each area I work on, I polish up a bit. By the time I hang all the bits on, the frame kind of “disappears”...... With all the different colours of body work, I kind of like the look!

Yesterday, sorted all the wiring. Ignition, starter, lights, turn signals are all working. I inserted an On-Off switch (using an early style switch) and it’s all good. Next, I have to take it all apart and repeat!

1. Both switch harnesses are MUCH too long. With the short clip on bars, there is about 10” too much wire. It just won’t all fit in th headlight bucket and I’m not having wads of wire under the speedoand tach........ Need to cut them all back, solder and shrink wrap. Will take a while.

2. For once,I am going to document the wiring alterations and do a page of modified wiring diagrams for my “build notes”! The next guy will thank me.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #83 on:** March 09, 2020, 10:39:47 AM »

Got started on shortening the bar end controls today. Using the Rickman clip on bars leaves way too much wire in the headlamp bucket (no room for the head light!). Took about 10” of wire out, soldered and shrink wrapped every connection. Slow, but necessary.

smcgill · « **Reply #84 on:** March 09, 2020, 11:30:59 AM »

I understand completely.
Scott M.

smcgill · « **Reply #85 on:** March 09, 2020, 11:38:48 AM »

I'm trying to figure out the best way to do the indicator light connections. The lights will need to plug in after the headlight is sealed up, unless I'm missing something!
S.M.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #86 on:** March 09, 2020, 12:44:05 PM »

Scott.... I temporarily mounted my turn signals to stalks that are drilled, so the wires pass into the headlight shell. I’m going to run initially without the fairing. When I mount them to the fairing, I will use two, double pole, rubber trailer connectors. The plug can hang out the back of the head light, then push connect to the fairing mounted lamps.

Is that an original headlight/ fairing mounting bracket? Mine has been cut down on the race bike. I’d love to see a good photo graph from above! Did you have your frame re plated?

smcgill · « **Reply #87 on:** March 09, 2020, 09:16:11 PM »

I have a similar plan for my turn indicators,it's the 7 wires for the dash indicators I was referring to.The panel will mount to the dash top, [fairing, on order] but with the fairing in place I don't believe you can access the headlight rim screws. Probably scoot the fairing forward, attach wires, seal headlight, then mount fairing. I may be getting ahead of myself, I'm sure I'll work it out.I'd just like to minimize the headlight spaghetti.
The frame was plated by the p.o.,I re plated the headlight/fairing mount. I started with what you see in the picture Frank posted [on your thread pg. 3] Most every piece had issues.The frame has 1 pit through the nickel, someones 'fix' was to abrade the area with coarse scotchbrite [??]. The center stand brackets had been removed prior to plating, no doubt to clear some underslung header[maybe a racer also?] It was brought from eastern Canada to Arizona by the p.o.
I'll attach a few picts of my fairing mount, it's hard to see clearly now with everything attached.A clear picture of a loose one can be seen by going to Bring A Trailer>auction results>search "Rickman", The CR in front of the garage door , scroll down , lots of good close up shots.
Scott M.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #88 on:** March 10, 2020, 06:31:35 AM »

Scott...... I misunderstood your question. Not there yet. I don’t have the “rihino horn” gauge mount, so will probably us a set of ‘73-‘75 reproduction gauges (my bike is a ‘74). I notice some Rickmans use the K0-1 gauges, with the warming lights built in. NOT doing that, too expensive.

I have a bunch of the K7-8 indicator lamp pods. When I fabricate the instrument plate, I may just mount one between the tach and speedo? Or, 4-5 small LED indicator lamps? Not there yet......

Thanks for the photos. I have 1/2 the bracket, will work from that. Found the BAT pictures. GREAT!

lash · « **Reply #89 on:** March 10, 2020, 02:23:04 PM »

I just happen to have a couple of sets of 73-76 gauges restored by Marcel of CB750 faces ....

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #90 on:** March 10, 2020, 04:42:32 PM »

Mmmmm. We’ll talk.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #91 on:** March 11, 2020, 06:05:23 PM »

Finished the wiring today. Spin up oil pressure and start up is next. This motor was a complete rebuild a few years ago (1974 numbers, was in my K6). I only ran it long enough to set valves, dwell, timing and carb sync. Put about 50 miles on the K6, oil change and parked it. The engine should come on line pretty easily....... Famous “last words”?

lash · « **Reply #92 on:** March 11, 2020, 06:11:30 PM »

“ran when it was parked” 🤪 How many times have you read that?!
Always great to hear them run again. the last one I did just started up last week, hasnt run since 1984!

newday777 · « **Reply #93 on:** March 12, 2020, 04:56:45 AM »

Quote from: lash on March 11, 2020, 06:11:30 PM

“ran when it was parked” 🤪 How many times have you read that?!
Always great to hear them run again. the last one I did just started up last week, hasnt run since 1984!

Yes indeed.
I'm working on getting a friend's 74 running again, last run in 86/87.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #94 on:** March 12, 2020, 05:34:08 AM »

Congrats to those that “get them running”. LASH used the Smiley Face because the bike he’s probably taking about came from my barn! It was a VERY ROUGH parts bike. It came to me for free and he got it the same way. Part of a package, and he had to drag it away! Amazing Restoration!

lash · « **Reply #95 on:** March 12, 2020, 07:12:19 AM »

Ya John, this is one of your barn bikes, before, at your place and after , as it is so far. Getting there...

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #96 on:** March 12, 2020, 01:22:14 PM »

Lash..... Amazing! Well done. That Silver looks great!

Fired up the Rickman for the first time today. Sounds great on the stainless Hindle system. As expected, engine needs nothing. Checked dwell and timing, good to go! Load and bleed the front brakes, wire the tail light, prep a fuel tank, some new fuel lines, and “test ride”.

Still have to fit Tach and Speedo, and sort out a side stand. Find a place for dash lights (Neutral/ Oil/ Hi-beam/ Turn). Oh, speedo drive needs to be built.

Mmmmm still lots to do.

lash · « **Reply #97 on:** March 12, 2020, 02:00:35 PM »

I have the side stand and the other parts you wanted..

smcgill · « **Reply #98 on:** March 12, 2020, 06:32:57 PM »

Congradulations John! My engine is more of a mystery for me, still have a lot of loose ends before I can spin itl . I plan to use the Delkavic pipe that Joe Cooley used.My instruments are K4 also. I turned the back covers down, then used the early hardware because I had the Rickman unicorn.Early[K2] wiring harness also. The K4 battery box tab for the clutch interlock interfered with the frame, either removed or early box as I did.I am using a Motion Pro custom 62" speedo cable, fits well.

754 · « **Reply #99 on:** March 12, 2020, 06:51:56 PM »

BENELLI, I have an old Hindle on a 78 F., have not heard it yet..

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Author Topic: 1974 Rickman Honda (Read 35432 times)