Topic: Cb750 F2 camchain adjustment

[Born to be mild]

Hi All, I've just fired up my F2 after a layup of about 4 years and it sounded like a bag of nails so Im thinking, fresh fuel, carb synch, check plugs, adjust tappets and camchain tensioner, however, I notice on you-tube that after the cam chain is adjusted it can be checked to make sure that the plunger has moved but when I try to press in the back it of the opening it feels solid,[ different type of adjuster maybe? ] I cant get any sense of the spring pushing the chain. Is this right or does the tensioner need to come off? it doesn't look like a huge job apart from the fact that on the F2 the crankcase breather seems to be in the way. Also, can anyone think of anything else to check to quieten the engine? I have to say that it always did sound mechanically noisey until it was warm but after not hearing it for some years now it seems louder, maybe its just me. I also have to say that in total Ive only done a couple of hundred miles on the bike after buying it before I laid it up due to the fact that it wasn't charging [ cheers for that P/O] for which I've replaced the reg/rec.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[evinrude7]

while it might need a tune up sounds like the clutch plates are a bit dry from sitting.

[bryanj]

PD carbs! That plunger will only move when the pinch bolt is loose DO NOT run the engine with the bolt loose

[Born to be mild]

Thanks Evinrude, I hadn't thought about the clutch at all, that will hopefully get sorted once I take it for a run. Bryan, thanks also for your response but I don't think the card linkages are loose. Just on a related note regarding the chain adjuster, I notice that the Honda workshop manual says to adjust the cam chain with the engine running, I was setting it static at 15 deg past TDC on No1 cyl. Maybe it doesn't make much difference but it seems odd that Honda specified engine running.

[bryanj]

Not linkages just the carbs, they are horrible.
Dont care what the book sez been doing it years and doing it with engine running just dont work and makes it worse when engine not running smooth, in extreme cases with worn chain and really rough engine known it jump a tooth

[robvangulik]

You can easily take the adjuster off, it is not the crankcase breather but the oil pressure switch that is in the way.

[Born to be mild]

Sorry Bryan, I see what you were saying in your original post as you can tell I thought that you were referring to the carb linkages. I'll take the assembly off, [ point taken that its the oil pressure switch in the way, Rob, cheers] and check its free, point taken about adjusting engine off.

[bryanj]

If you remove the assembly without undoing the lockscrew yòu can judge by the amount of movement left on plunger how worn the chain is

[Born to be mild]

I didn't spot your post before I whipped the thing off Bryan, I did notice some burrs on the pusher shaft which I polished out in case they were hanging on to the bolt, The spring seemed to be in good order and the shaft was free sliding. Of more note was the fact that all eight tappets were way out of adjustment, the final one I checked was I found was at least 0.10mm , should have been 0.05 so there hopefully is much of the noise accounted for. Not sure if I'll synch the carbs or not now, it looks like a bit of a game but I suppose is worth doing. I also note that No2 plug was really tight all the way out, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the P/O didn't cross thread it.