Topic: rattle can paint

[BruceA cb550]

Did some experimenting with Dupli-Color Mirage paint, its the spray can version of chameleon paint.  Comes in a 3 step set, base coat, color coat, and clearcoat.  With some good prep and some1200 grit wet sand every other coat, this is going to workout real nice.  I'll have the tank and side covers done for less than $50.  I'll post some pics when I get everything back on the Bike and have decent weather to get outside for photos.

[ProTeal55]

Rattlecan paintjobs can turn out good, as long as wetsanding is done...

[ElCheapo]

Rattlecan paintjobs can turn out good, as long as wetsanding is done...

My bikes are proof of that. 

[Steve F]

Just don't get any fuel on it.

[ElCheapo]

Just don't get any fuel on it.

Dont matter 

I have spilled fuel on Home Wrecker lacquer paint job a few times. No effect.

You have to pick your paint correctly.

[ProTeal55]

When I was running the low-gloss engine enamel paintjob on the CB750, I spilled fuel on it a few times. My fix to that was a total tank re-spray while it was on the bike. I actually got pretty good at it (i must admit). All I did was take a extra large bedsheet, throw it over the bike, and then cut a slit just big enough for the tank to "pop out". This allowed me to paint the tank on the bike, and not get overspray on everything..

 

[nickjtc]

You guys are all way too talented. My botched rattle can attempts have been a total embarrasment.

[ElCheapo]

When I was running the low-gloss engine enamel paintjob on the CB750, I spilled fuel on it a few times. My fix to that was a total tank re-spray while it was on the bike. I actually got pretty good at it (i must admit). All I did was take a extra large bedsheet, throw it over the bike, and then cut a slit just big enough for the tank to "pop out". This allowed me to paint the tank on the bike, and not get overspray on everything..

 

Slick Idea 

[ProTeal55]

You guys are all way too talented. My botched rattle can attempts have been a total embarrasment.

Allot of it has to do with the prep.
I went thru about 2 cans of sandable primer before I shot the final "coat" of paint on this..
This was Ace Hardware brand low gloss high heat paint..

It is always easier to make a rattlecan job look good if you are doing flat/semi-gloss rather than a gloss job..

Plus - you could always take your time and do a good rattle can job, then take it to a bodyshop and throw them $20 to clear over it. Would save the paint from the random fuel spilling..

[ElCheapo]

I agree with you Teal on the prep work part.......

Most body shops will not clear over because of incompatibility between paints.

I have never had a problem with the paint issue.

Solid color coverage, then SICKO clear coat (10 coats) and keep buffing.

Looks like glass when you are done. 

[CrisPDuk]

You guys are all way too talented. My botched rattle can attempts have been a total embarrasment.

Allot of it has to do with the prep.
I went thru about 2 cans of sandable primer before I shot the final "coat" of paint on this..
This was Ace Hardware brand low gloss high heat paint..

It is always easier to make a rattlecan job look good if you are doing flat/semi-gloss rather than a gloss job..

Plus - you could always take your time and do a good rattle can job, then take it to a bodyshop and throw them $20 to clear over it. Would save the paint from the random fuel spilling..

Woah, I'm so used to seeing that bike with the Linex'd tank that I'd forgotten it used to have a 'normal' one   It just looks wrong that way now

[turtle]

I agree with you guys. There is rattle can paint and rattle can paint. Mostly, you get what you pay for and as has been said, it is all in the preparation and finishing. There is a guy here is Oz who has developed candy paints (3 part system) high quality acrylic lacquer. I can't wait to try them. Unfortunately he can't / won't post overseas because of carriage of danger ous goods.

[Serenity]

Proteal that bike is way cool...had to keep coming back to check it out

[turtle]

Bike looks great Proteal. We have found that high heat paints (engine enamel) is only good where the temperature gets really hot (ie on the head and block). Other areas (even the crank case) donn't get hot enough to bake the paint, and it never really hardens properly. We usually use wheel enamel sillver on crankcases etc. (Septone from Supercheap Autos is good, also White Knight from Bunnings.)