Topic: Valve noise

[cmills83]

I have a '75f but the bottom end is a '77f and the head is off a '74k.  The engine was rebuilt about a year ago but the bike sat outside for about 8 months waiting on other parts, paint, etc.  I only idled it about 10 min before and it started right up and sounded great.  The bike was under a waterproof cover, choke on and I put 1tsp on marvel on each valve before storing.  I live in Santa Barbara so we don't really get weather here and I assumed I was ok.

Now that everything is done on the bike I cleaned the carbs, added fresh gas, changed the oil, new battery and went to start the bike.

It runs rough and has valve noise.  I've done the valve adjustment probably 5x now, checked the timing and points gap and I think everything is in spec.  What else can I check that would cause this engine noise?  Even with all the precautions I took did some moisture still get in and damage a component?

Re: the valve adjustment I am following the procedure in the tech section and the exhaust valves are at .08mm and the intake at 0.05mm.  I put the feeler gauge in at those sizes and it goes in with slight drag, how I've done my XS650.

I wanted to avoid pulling apart a freshly built motor but I am running out of ideas aside from visually inspecting everything.

[cmills83]

Forgot to mention before the first valve adjustment I had loosened and re-tightened the cam chain tensioner.

Also, here is what I am using as TDC, the mark to the left of the T.  I haven't found any manuals that have the same ignition plate as I have here, is this the correct mark for TDC?

[seanbarney41]

You see any oil in the valve cover?

[cmills83]

Yeah oil seems to be circulating fine

[seanbarney41]

ok, remove an inspection cap on both sides of the front of the engine.(the exhaust valve inspection caps for 1 and 4)  Are both sides oily?  Now, start the covers back on loosely, but don't tighten 'em up, start the engine, and remove the caps one at a time, oil should splash out when you do.   Pop em back on quick before you make a big mess.  If oil is not splashing out of both sides, you have a problem with oil flow to the top end.

[Tracksnblades1]

Perhaps a video farther away from carburetor pods.

I'm not sure what type noise your trying to post.

[Tracksnblades1]

Here what Honda says about points and timing..?
TDC is TDC....

The forum has the service manuals above..

[cmills83]

Yeah I followed the procedure in the K manual but the F didn't have any supplement even though the ignition plate is a bit different.  Figured I would double check.

Here what Honda says about points and timing..?
TDC is TDC....

The forum has the service manuals above..

[Tracksnblades1]

Yeah I followed the procedure in the K manual but the F didn't have any supplement even though the ignition plate is a bit different.  Figured I would double check.

Here what Honda says about points and timing..?
TDC is TDC....

The forum has the service manuals above..

I'm listening on an iPad, but I only hear exhaust and carb pod noise.
It sounds like it's missing when you lightly roll the throttle.
When it's idling, it sounds like two cylinders are pulling more than the other two.
Check line e: on second picture. Timing changes point gaps, and point gaps changes timing.
So be sure to check and recheck points and timing.

Right after starting, Do all four exhaust pipes (near the head) get hot at the same time?

[Redline it]

Here's the odd ball, you say it ran before ok for a few minutes 10 or something like that. Sounded good and has been sitting 8 months since, in SB? That's been rated as 1 of the best places in California to hang out. But the manuals all day check the carbs only after everything else has checked out? That's why I check the carbs 1st. If it's not out of sync just1 semi plugged pilot jet will make them sound like every major thing else is completely failing. One cylinder not getting enough fuel throws the other 3 way off. It'll sound like valve train. And that's the kind of thing that changes when it's sitting. Fuel problems.