Topic: Help! Installed new clutch on K1, can't make adjustment without wheel spinning

[DesertKyorugi]

Installed a new EBC clutch kit on my 71 CB750 that sat for 39 years following recommendations of the board on Sunday. Everything went smoothly until the clutch adjustment, spent the past 2 days retracing my steps and reperforming the adjustment with no luck.
The main thing is when going into first gear,  it clunked in and the rear wheel starts spinning.
Second, when turning the clutch adjustment screw at the clutch cover there is no resistance until almost all the way screwed in.

I did everything that was listed in the manual and from the web site - http://honda-cb750-s.456789.n3.nabble.com/How-to-change-and-adjust-a-clutch-SOHC-td4040391.html

I started the adjustment with both the cable stops at the lever and clutch cover turned all the way in. Lever free play is almost the complete range. I turned the clutch adjustment screw counterclockwise all the way out and then slowly turn it in clockwise with my finger. There is no resistance until it is almost all the way in. Also noted is, when the clutch adjustment screw is almost all the way in, the pull lever/lifter tab behind the lock nut and washer starts protruding out.

I have tried leaving the clutch adjustment screw all the way out and almost all the way in where very little resistance is felt. All scenarios spin the rear wheel when going into 1st gear with clutch lever held in.

When you guys installed new clutch, is clutch the adjustment screw almost all the way out? or almost all the way in? The clutch that came out was almost worn out at 3.1mm

Thanks

[Alaxy Galaxy]

Is your bike up on its center stand?

In my experience, the clutch still has a little friction when disengaged. And on the center stand, the wheel will turn when a gear is selected, even with the lever pulled in. Not a problem during actual riding, however.

[danyo]

You are doing things correctly. Adjustment screw almost all the way in. When you start feeling resistance pull it out half turn I believe then lock it  tightening nut. Next step is adjust cable slack. First you need to adjust at clutch cover side and lastly fine adjustment at the lever. The wheel is spinning even in neutral so dont worry about this. Remove bike from center stand, start it, pull clutch lever, put it in first gear and observe lever at which point it will start move the bike. Bike should start move when lever is in  it's last quarter of full range. I hope you will figurevthus out.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

[69cb750]

Wheel will spin on center stand, this is normal.
Ride down the road and report back to us.

[DesertKyorugi]

Thank you guys! I thought with a new clutch I was supposed to be able to get it without the rear wheel spinning while on center stand 

You are doing things correctly. Adjustment screw almost all the way in. When you start feeling resistance pull it out half turn I believe then lock it  tightening nut. Next step is adjust cable slack. First you need to adjust at clutch cover side and lastly fine adjustment at the lever. The wheel is spinning even in neutral so dont worry about this. Remove bike from center stand, start it, pull clutch lever, put it in first gear and observe lever at which point it will start move the bike. Bike should start move when lever is in  it's last quarter of full range. I hope you will figurevthus out.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Yes, it is almost all the way in before I felt a little resistance(about half a turn from all the way in). I was thinking since it is new it would be almost all the way out, that's why I was a little confused especially when the rear wheel spun. Also, the clutch lever pull effort was very light. I could almost 2 finger it.

How much free play at the lever is supposed to be? The manual says 0.4" and I think that's a pretty big gap.

I will get to it later today and get back to you guys.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Did you soak the new plates in oil overnight?

[DesertKyorugi]

Did you soak the new plates in oil overnight?

Soaked it for 36 hours 

[dave500]

on the centre stand there is still enough oil drag to spin the wheel even with the clutch lever pulled in,if you apply the rear brake by hand it should stop wheel but not load the motor,as 69cb750 said ride it n see how it behaves,the clutch may grab more when cold,i always adjust them hot,how it is when cold so be it,sitting on the bike in gear with the engine running and clutch lever pulled in you should be able to with foot work to push the bike backwards.

[DesertKyorugi]

sitting on the bike in gear with the engine running and clutch lever pulled in you should be able to with foot work to push the bike backwards.

That's a good idea. I will try that and use it as a gauge for fine-tuning the adjustments. Thank you!

[DesertKyorugi]

Finally get to test the clutch today, I was able to back up the bike with the clutch in. The clutch starts to bite with the lever at the last 1/3 of the way out. The big question now is - is it normal to have a lot of clutch noise/clatter in neutral? I don't have the double-disc plate.

I will post some updated pics of the bike tomorrow. It is a totally different looking bike now that it is partially cleaned up. Only a few things left to swap out and replace before it is a time correct K1. Tomorrow, the odometer will finally get to roll after sitting 39 years when I go for a test ride around the neighborhood.

[my name is nobody]

Finally get to test the clutch today, I was able to back up the bike with the clutch in. The clutch starts to bite with the lever at the last 1/3 of the way out. The big question now is - is it normal to have a lot of clutch noise/clatter in neutral? I don't have the double-disc plate.

I will post some updated pics of the bike tomorrow. It is a totally different looking bike now that it is partially cleaned up. Only a few things left to swap out and replace before it is a time correct K1. Tomorrow, the odometer will finally get to roll after sitting 39 years when I go for a test ride around the neighborhood.

 750s are known for clutch noise in neutral.
Balancing the carbs will help a lot.  smoother idle=less clutch clatter. Checking the rest of the tune up helps too.
Timing, points gap/dwell, valve clearance, cam chain and idle speed.... adjust as required