Alright, we are getting somewhere ... this is interesting.
Ignition bundle (where key is inserted) unplugged:
- Battery - 12.35v
- 15A fuse - 12.35v
- Ignition Red - 12.35v
- Ignition Black - 0v
- Rats nest hots - 12.35v
Ignition bundle plugged in right hand switch on Run + ON:
- Battery - 11.95v
- 15A fuse - 11.59v
- Rats nest hots - 11.2v
Right Hand Switch in Off and Off position:
- Battery - 12.17v
- 15A fuse - 12.12v
- Ignition Red - 12.27v
- Ignition Black - 0v
- Rats nest hots - 12.05v
And not that surprising .... drumroll ... the headlamp and signals work together when the right hand switch in set to RUN + OFF. I did not see a noticeable difference in brightness between bright and dim output for headlamp, but at least they are working now. Some info and questions.
That right hand switch was sent to me from Vintage CB750, and out of the box it was garbage (little start button did nothing). One of the forum members here was nice enough to offer to solder/fix it for me if I shipped it to him, and he did. Looking at the instructions for that switch it seems that the OFF/ON which is causing the failure is not needed for a 76 (
https://www.vintagecb750.com/parts/instructions/12-0301.pdf)? I guess the OEM switch only had the run/off/run? If so I should probably do something so that I cannot render my turn signals useless by sliding a switch from off to on. I will have to address that and take a closer look at the headlamp brightness. Any other thoughts on my multi-meter readings? I also noticed that my tail light is off entirely unless I brake, or unless the ignition is in slot 2 (key turned all the way). That also isn't the correct behavior right?
