Topic: Terry's NEW big Kawasaki build, the "Lockdown 1428" special.

[MauiK3]

Very nice brake work

[754]

A couple tips make a rounded cut between the 2 big bolts , take out about 3/8 inch.
And I think you are probably not doing this
 Layout your piece with dye. Then using dividers lay out the desired radius around your bolts,  then run straight or curved lines between the outsides of those radii.  Then it looks even around all the bolts.
 When I make these I usually start with 3/4 inch or so plate, then remove back 1/2 of that for the front big bolts, then remove 1/2 of the front for the small  bolts.. easy  to do with a mills harder to do with a lathe or drill press but can be done.. .

[simon#42]

if i was being picky.... which i am just about to be . i would loose the spacers and either shape the bracket to do without them or failing that make the bracket from thicker alloy and mill it were needed . it would be much stronger .

[grcamna2]

1428cc  Hey, it's 'Go Big or Go Home'     When you call it the "Lockdown 1428" special,I get what you say with this 'stay at home' thing..
  But have you considered another Spin on this "Lockdown" idea with that bike? Terry,you could possibly sink 4) eye hook anchor bolts down in your driveway even with both axles on either side of the bike once you get'er finished,complete.Then chain the bike down to the frame into those 4) eye hooks and let'er rippp !!
Call it a real seat'o the pants dyno 

Edit: I don't really think that just chains will be enough to hold that one down..

[Terry in Australia]

Thanks guys, I'm not worried about the strength Simon, the 10mm 6061 T6 plate is more than strong enough, I've been running that big PM caliper on my Sportster on a 10mm plate bracket for 3 or 4 years now with no issues, but it's always good to see your opinions. I think I will make some prettier ones later though.

Sporty PM Caliper 1 by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr
[/quote]

The 3mm steel plate and 25mm tube for my frame braces has finally arrived after a 3 week wait, which is ridiculous, but anyway, once I've made the swingarm bushes I'll teach myself to TIG weld on some scrap, then start making some frame braces, which should be interesting......

[Terry in Australia]

1428cc  Hey, it's 'Go Big or Go Home'     When you call it the "Lockdown 1428" special,I get what you say with this 'stay at home' thing..
  But have you considered another Spin on this "Lockdown" idea with that bike? Terry,you could possibly sink 4) eye hook anchor bolts down in your driveway even with both axles on either side of the bike once you get'er finished,complete.Then chain the bike down to the frame into those 4) eye hooks and let'er rippp !!
Call it a real seat'o the pants dyno 

Edit: I don't really think that just chains will be enough to hold that one down..

Ha ha, thanks mate, but I think I'll pass, I have a good relationship with my neighbours, so I'll only be making lots of noise out on the backroads where I won't be annoying anyone.

[grcamna2]

That's true Terry,everyone is 'stay at home' and lot's of eyes out there,plus the tire smoke.. no hiding that.

[Tintop]

Terry if you want to 'clean up the look', change out those regular socket Allen's for Button Head ones.  Much cleaner look & more aerodynamic.

[spotty]

,that is true but from experience they offer less depth around the whole of the alien key and are much easier to chew the hole out

I found this out the hard way when I was pulling the discs off the vmax on which I had installed s/s button head Allen bolts with Loctite, luckily only one out of 12 went really bad , had to be drilled out, drill the bolt hole oversize, retap and do an insert ( which the mech said I should never try to take out as the insert would probably come out with the bolt )

The stock Yamaha bolts are sort of button head Allen bolts but much deeper in the hole area than any of the aftermarket ones I've seen,not as pretty but not as fragile

I would have preferred big solid round Allen bolts like the ones terance has used but there is minimal clearance between the discs and forks

Just one blokes opinion

[Tintop]

Agree spotty there's definitely less depth to the buttons vs standard socket heads, so much easier to strip out removing.  As I don't think Terry is planning on making a habit of removing them the buttons would be aesthetically better.  Of course he could drill and safety wire what he's got for a different aesthetic.

[simon#42]

yes spotty i hate those shallow allen bolts as well .only to be used when there is no room and you have to . terry you will have no problem tig welding it is pretty straight forward . if you have or can get a foot controller for your tig it makes things even easier . look forward to seeing the alloy monocoque chassis for the sportster !

[Terry in Australia]

Ha ha, thanks guys, and like Spotty, I hate those shallow POS button head bolts, I've had battles with them over the years, and can't see what they're good for, except pissing people off? Spotty's comment about the OEM shallow internal hex brake bolts is valid, I've had to drill more out due to electrolysis taking over, the internal hex's are too shallow to get a decent purchase, and are usually stripped by the time I inherit the bike, and all it's problems, my FJ1200 was an absolute pig to remove the worn out rotors, and my FJR1300 was the same, but there's no "fix" apart from replacing the bolts with new OEM items,due to the afore-mentioned clearance issues. As "Agricultural" as mine might look, they're way more practical, and like Brian says, there's plenty of meat to lock-wire them if ever I have an urge to race it.

I won't be doing any major mods to my Sporty Simon, as it's still like new with only 6000 miles from new (1994) but I'm looking for another one, and I'll either buy, or build a "Sporton". I thought about a Buell, but apart from their beautiful engines, I'm not a fan, but a Norton Featherbed frame with a hot Sporty engine would be a joy to behold, I've got 2 Hammer Performance hot up kits here, the 1275 kit with the "Buell" heads and 560 cams, Dyna 2000i ignition, Mikuni HSR42mm carb and Bassani 2 into 1 pipe will give it a reliable 110 RWHP, which will be more than enough for an old fart like me. If you see a cheap featherbed frame, let me know? OK, I better do a little more work, then I'm gonna jump on the lathe and make up some swingarm bushes, should be fun!    

 

[scunny]

I've seen those Terry, I was trying to talk a mate of mine into one, he's given up the heritage classic because he was finding it to big round home. Bastard said no.

[754]

The cleanest way to mount rotor bolts is to countersink the rotor, and use flat head countersunk bolts.
 Easy to do with Morris mags as they are tapped, on both sides of the wheel. You could probably convert stock hubs and others by using a helicoil.
 A flat head , flush sitting fastener it does not get cleaner than that. Several manufacturer do it that way. One drawback is you can't safety wire them. Will try to add a pic tommorow.

[Terry in Australia]

I've seen those Terry, I was trying to talk a mate of mine into one, he's given up the heritage classic because he was finding it to big round home. Bastard said no.

That is magnificent mate, and yep, just what I want, is Ken McIntosh still making replica featherbed frames? The more I look at them, the more I'm sure I could squeeze one into my over-crowded garage..........

[Terry in Australia]

The cleanest way to mount rotor bolts is to countersink the rotor, and use flat head countersunk bolts.
 Easy to do with Morris mags as they are tapped, on both sides of the wheel. You could probably convert stock hubs and others by using a helicoil.
 A flat head , flush sitting fastener it does not get cleaner than that. Several manufacturer do it that way. One drawback is you can't safety wire them. Will try to add a pic tommorow.

Yep, sounds good Frank, post a pic for sure!

[scunny]

Pretty sure Ken is still making all things Norton.

[754]

Disregard the grotty bolts, I usually get plated or SS fasteners. Flusher than anything else, sano looking..
 I got this one already done , but have counter sunk the 2 on my chopper. My rule of thumb to do these is try to get the hole to the big diameter of the bolt, then stop. That leaves  the little chamfer proud, but it looks best.
 I think one or more in the pic are a bit deep , and it does not look right seeing any of get countersink cut.

[jaytee-nz]

Pretty sure Ken is still making all things Norton.

Yep, looks like it  http://www.manxnorton.co.nz/catalogue/catalogue.jsp?m_id=1&c_id=1

[Terry in Australia]

Thanks Guys, I might contact Ken and see if he does a kit to take a Sporty engine, but if he doesn't I might buy a frame jig and build my own.

Thanks Frank, apart from the grotty bolts, that looks really good, I might look into that.

[scottly]

I like that Norley!!

[Terry in Australia]

Ok, so I was gonna start my bronze swingarm bushes yesterday, but after seeing how clean everyone else's lathes were in the "Show us your lathe" thread, I felt kinda guilty being in possession of the world's filthiest lathe, so instead of enjoying myself turning metal into bike parts, I spent the best part of two hours cleaning my lathe. I was surprised at how many tools and pieces of material that I found under all the swarf, so that was a good thing, I suppose.

Terry's cleaner than usual lathe by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

I suppose I better clean up my mill/drill and boring bar next?

Terry's cleaner than usual lathe 2 by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

Terry's cleaner than usual lathe 1 by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

Anyway, it was rather nice to work on a nice clean lathe this afternoon, without ducking the occasional tumbleweed of swarf picked up by the chuck or workpiece, or tool that's slid off the top of the lathe, then bounced off the chuck or workpiece, and made a bee line for my beautiful face.

1428 swinger 7 May 2020 by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

Before I start to make the bronze bushes I needed to make the swingarm end caps/thrust bearings/spacers that go between the swingarm and the frame. The swingarm pivot tube, which sits slightly proud of the swingarm, is tightened down against the caps, and the swingarm pivots around it. The caps keep the grease in, and the crap out.

1428 swinger 7 May 2020 1 by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

I did a quick test fit, they're fine, and will take up the space between the swinger and the frame once I've turned up some new bushes on Sunday.

1428 swinger 7 May 2020 2 by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

Tomorrow though, we ride! Yes, my new VFR750 battery and new wet weather jacket arrived today, so tomorrow I'll notch up another 100 miler, once I straighten the bent rear brake pedal from last Saturday's spill. It'll be nice not having to worry about it conking out and having to push it home, my back and right shoulder are still sore from being flipped over the bike. I hope I don't do that again for awhile.........

[spotty]

Apparently it's going to piss down all day tomorrow.......

[dave500]

im with you on those tiny button had allens,ok on say plastics etc but really dont have enough body for anything more?

[Tintop]

Terry if your going to build a Featherbed V twin you need a real engine not one of those wimpy Harley things.....