Topic: Chain question

[CB750owner]

Okay guys, i need a bit of advice.  I am looking into replacing both sprockets and chain on my 74 Cb750.  I know its a 530 chain.  My sprockets arent terrible.  However i am looking at replacing my wheel bearings as well so figured while i was in there get that all tidied up in one go.  My question is does anyone have any site preferences for ordering chains for here in the U.S. and is it a 100, or 104 link chain.  I appreciate any help guys and thanks!

[PeWe]

Order a complete kit. 530 100 link chain and 18-48 sprockets.
If engine is stock, 17 teeth front to get a little bit stronger on higher gears.
It will only rev 250 rpm extra at around 100kmh/60mph.
Search and you will find.

Stock bike can use the weaker chains with clip master link. Riveted chains need riveting tool and extra "problems".

My K6 with almost 80whp used a clip chain back in the 80s. The modern chains however, do not stretch that quick as the chain did back then, even if it was an o-ring chain. Today x-ring with riveted master link and more power.

The modern clip chains must be better.

[low-side]

I use a clip type o-ring chain with no issues.  Honestly, the sideplate and clip are such a pain to install (very tight fit) I'm just going to rivet my next chain.

[CB750owner]

So a 100 link will work for it?  I replaced the chain once and unfortunately I have misplaced any info the shop i bought from back home gave me with the link count and all that as I am a dumbass and have moved like 4 times since then.  Thanks guys.

[PeWe]

New chain must get new sprockets. Sprockets can worn quickly if not properly lubricated.

New wheel bearings front and rear. The bearing retainers too if nit removed correctly drilling the punch marks locking them deep enough, 3-4 mm drill aroubd 4-5 mm deep.

O-rings an seals too. I purchased several kits for front- rear from Yamiya.

Brakes etc... I found an old used set of brake shoes,  Honda stock still attached on the rear brake backing plate. Work really well.

[HondaMan]

A [few] word of advice to get the longest life out of the chain:
1. When you get your new sprockets, install them and run them with the OLD chain for about 100-200 miles or so. All new sprockets today are CAST, not MACHINED, so they have a gritty surface that rubs off and becomes a very nasty grit that damages the new chain. This has proven toe SEVERELY shorten new chain life. The details of all of this are found in my book.
2. If you have a grinder wheel or access to one: grind off 1.0-2.0 mm from the tips of the teeth on the countersprocket. Reason: again, ALL sprockets made today are not made to Honda's spec for this chain system: they used a 1mm larger base circle (bottom of the 'teeth') and 1mm shorter tooth height on the countersprocket, and the same larger base circle on the rear sprocket. This change, in 1971, altered chain life from typical 5,000 miles to over 20,000 miles, and with a Diamond XDL chain (which I still use today) I have received over 40,000 miles form a set of [Honda] sprockets and chain.

These chain and sprocket changes all went away in the late 1990s when the old crop of engineers left at Honda (or died?) who made these bikes. The tech is lost to today's sprocket-makers, and all sprockets currently available for these bikes are cast in China. Some are a little better than others for roundness (and cost a little more), but all are cast and have the pebbly surface that will EAT a new chain. Running the grit off into the old chain first will save you LOTS of grief and $$ this coming season.

I am lately toying with the idea of making a 'break-in' machine and pre-cleaning (the grit in) these sprockets for sale at my website, with trimmed-off tooth tips. It takes an hour or so to do them right, but it is REALLY worth it in chain life and smoothness improvements. I have to "make a deal" with the sprocket-makers first, and I want ROUND ones, not oval ones, so it's already taken almost 5 months to do part of it. I won't start talking here about the Chinese vendors, or all I will be able to type will be 4-letter words...

[MauiK3]

I put 18/48 on my largely stock K3. Hondaman took care of the head and cylinders, second over pistons, valve job, a bit of cleanup in the head.
I found that with 18/48 the 100 link chain is almost too short. I am thinking of getting a slightly longer chain, I have not looked into it yet, it's 530 and maybe 102 links would make it more in the middle of the adjustment scale. I imagine moving the rear tire back might make it handle a bit differently too but probably not by much since it's a small change. Just thinking about it.

[jfmcclure]

On my K-5  18/48 a 102 link  Diamond chain put the adjustment in a good spot.

[CB750owner]

A [few] word of advice to get the longest life out of the chain:
1. When you get your new sprockets, install them and run them with the OLD chain for about 100-200 miles or so. All new sprockets today are CAST, not MACHINED, so they have a gritty surface that rubs off and becomes a very nasty grit that damages the new chain. This has proven toe SEVERELY shorten new chain life. The details of all of this are found in my book.
2. If you have a grinder wheel or access to one: grind off 1.0-2.0 mm from the tips of the teeth on the countersprocket. Reason: again, ALL sprockets made today are not made to Honda's spec for this chain system: they used a 1mm larger base circle (bottom of the 'teeth') and 1mm shorter tooth height on the countersprocket, and the same larger base circle on the rear sprocket. This change, in 1971, altered chain life from typical 5,000 miles to over 20,000 miles, and with a Diamond XDL chain (which I still use today) I have received over 40,000 miles form a set of [Honda] sprockets and chain.

These chain and sprocket changes all went away in the late 1990s when the old crop of engineers left at Honda (or died?) who made these bikes. The tech is lost to today's sprocket-makers, and all sprockets currently available for these bikes are cast in China. Some are a little better than others for roundness (and cost a little more), but all are cast and have the pebbly surface that will EAT a new chain. Running the grit off into the old chain first will save you LOTS of grief and $$ this coming season.

I am lately toying with the idea of making a 'break-in' machine and pre-cleaning (the grit in) these sprockets for sale at my website, with trimmed-off tooth tips. It takes an hour or so to do them right, but it is REALLY worth it in chain life and smoothness improvements. I have to "make a deal" with the sprocket-makers first, and I want ROUND ones, not oval ones, so it's already taken almost 5 months to do part of it. I won't start talking here about the Chinese vendors, or all I will be able to type will be 4-letter words...

. Thanks for the tips Hondaman.  I soak my new chains in a combination motor oil and marvel mystery oil before thinking of putting it on my bike.  I do not like the heaviness of the oil they put on brand new chains.  It is good for farm use equipment and all that, however my experience has been that package chain oil is a bit too heavy and just not to my liking.  During riding season once a month when i do my more indepth preride checklist, I centerstand bike and lube chain with white lithium spray grease, and spin chain til i can feel everything roll nice and smooth.  I havent been able to ride the last few years from a shoulder injury so this season before it gets started i am doing a bunch of preseason tuneup garbage.  The sprockets are still the originals from 74, and my chain has always had a bit of a catch.  Not enough to throw chain, but just enough to notice spinning tire while lubing the chain.  So wheel bearings, chain and sprockets felt like a good place to start.  Personally, the chain is about 10 years old and realistically not in bad shape, i think the hitch in it is where i had to cut the chain, i may have goobered it up cutting it.  I have only put 7k miles on the chain since 2010, so i am sure it has plenty of life left in it, however I have heard that if a chain breaks on these old hondas there is a possibility of chain going through the block and trans. So i am a little on the cautious side when it comes to this.  The sprockets themselves are in relatively good shape as the bike only has 26k miles on it.  However while I am in there addressing other issues might as well get new stuff in there before I wind up having to stop riding to fix a breakdown issue in the middle of riding season.

[754]

 I use thicker oil, gear lube..
 Thin oil flings off quicker, and gives less cushion to the shocks chains encounter.  Your experience may differ.

[CB750owner]

I use thicker oil, gear lube..
 Thin oil flings off quicker, and gives less cushion to the shocks chains encounter.  Your experience may differ.

I use thinner oil as yes it does fling off quicker, however I am out in the country where there are alot of gravel and dirt roads and heavy lubes attract dirt and garbage getting stuck in the chain and making a nice flow for the chain almost impossible.  If it means I oil my chain a touch more, oh well.  It just gives me the opportunity to monitor the overall health of the back end a little more often.  I am kind of a preride nazi, as this bike is a family heirloom of sorts and cant afford to lose her.  Its already had a tough life and me spending a little extra bit of time keeping it lubed up is no trouble at all.  Just a few years ago this bike was run over out in the parking lot of my work from a coworker with a big 1 ton truck parked on it.  So i am thankful every day she starts and runs, so extra attention is not a big thing for me.

[HondaMan]

I put 18/48 on my largely stock K3. Hondaman took care of the head and cylinders, second over pistons, valve job, a bit of cleanup in the head.
I found that with 18/48 the 100 link chain is almost too short. I am thinking of getting a slightly longer chain, I have not looked into it yet, it's 530 and maybe 102 links would make it more in the middle of the adjustment scale. I imagine moving the rear tire back might make it handle a bit differently too but probably not by much since it's a small change. Just thinking about it.

I use 102 or 104 link chains, depending on loads. Heavy loads, wife on the back, 104. Otherwise 102. It reduces 'quickness' or 'twitchyness' in steering. The 100 was the shortest one Honda could use, saved a few Yen in production.

[HondaMan]

Just a few years ago this bike was run over out in the parking lot of my work from a coworker with a big 1 ton truck parked on it. 

OW!
Shortly after I moved to Colorado and had a 3rd-floor apartment, I walked out on the balcony over my parking spot and saw my 750 laying flat on its right side. The drunken moron in the parking slot next to mine had pulled his car in on the line, knocking my bike flat, and walked off.

I won't talk here about what later happened to HIS car...nor that I had anything to do with it...

[PeWe]

So the slightly longer wheel base is an improvement making bike more stable?
Need to press bike harder in corners?

[my name is nobody]

I use thicker oil, gear lube..
 Thin oil flings off quicker, and gives less cushion to the shocks chains encounter.  Your experience may differ.

+1..............90 wt gear lube was the factory recommended lube for my 08 cbr600rr, works well and can use on all other bikes you might own.