Topic: 1982 CB 650 Manual

[aircraftgrade]

Recently picked up a '82 CB650, but I'm having some trouble finding a manual that corresponds to that specific year. I know the '79 manual exists out there, but the carbs are completely different than the '79 model. I attached a picture of my carbs. I'm hesitant to use that manual because of all the differences in the carbs. Wanted to see if anybody knows of a manual that corresponds to this year bike.

If not, I'll continue using the '79 manual and make it work best I can. Thanks in advance.

[kerryb]

I have that manual, got it off ebay, have the bike too.  Do you have any carb experience?  I can try to help.

[onepieceatatime]

79 and 80 used one style of carbs, 81 and 82 used the other style. There were several changes between the 4 years of production, but the engines are essentially the same for all 4 year. The heads changed for different intake spacing when the carbs changed.
I do not have a source for a online manual, that covers your carbs, but Haynes, and Clymer have produced manuals in addition to the FSM. I have a hard copy of each, and If I remember when I get to my garage, I can take pictures of whatever pages have information on the CV carbs for you, if no one has a link for you before then.

[bryanj]

From Honda the dealer workshop manual would have covered the first model with supplement added for differences in later ones.
I have the 650 manual but not sure about supplements, if i get time i will check in next couple of days

[DaveBarbier]

I too bought a factory service manual off eBay for my ‘82. It has all the supplement pages for 80, 81 and 82. Cost me $35.

[aircraftgrade]

Thanks for all the quick responses.

I'm in the process of cleaning the carbs, so just wanted to get some information on setting up the carbs afterwards. I had the carbs on previously and the bike wouldn't hold idle (but was starting, just barely). Looking for info on adjusting the idle screw and if I need to adjust anything else after cleaning. I'm hesitant to change too much since the bike (allegedly) ran just fine two years ago, before it was stored by the previous owner.

Anyways, looking on ebay it looks like an OEM manual is ~$40, any benefit to that over the cheaper Haynes/Clymer manuals?

[Nicklopic]

It might be worth it to get both honestly.
The FSM is the most accurate but some of the directions are vague with little detail on the process of doing things
Basically use the FSM for what to do, and the hanynes/Chilton for how to do it.

If you pick one, go with the FSM

[scunny]

I've got the download manual from here, a Clymer and a Haynes. In some aspects they all differ, like on the amount of bolts holding the crankcase halves together, I used the micro fiche from CMSNL as the referee for that fight.
I shall be back in the garage in the morning and see if I can dig something up.
When you say your cleaning the carbs, are you pulling the main jets and emulsifiers out. and the slow idle jets, they are pressed in. If your not, you aren't cleaning your carbs.

[bryanj]

Haynes now own clymer

[DaveBarbier]

Get any manual. I have a Clymer for my 550, Honda manual for my 650 and a Haynes for my Tacoma.

[kerryb]

Thanks for all the quick responses.

I'm in the process of cleaning the carbs, so just wanted to get some information on setting up the carbs afterwards. I had the carbs on previously and the bike wouldn't hold idle (but was starting, just barely). Looking for info on adjusting the idle screw and if I need to adjust anything else after cleaning. I'm hesitant to change too much since the bike (allegedly) ran just fine two years ago, before it was stored by the previous owner.

Anyways, looking on ebay it looks like an OEM manual is ~$40, any benefit to that over the cheaper Haynes/Clymer manuals?

From experience:  the engine will start and run without the factory airbox on...but not for long.  Make sure all the stock intake parts are installed before trying to make adjustments to carb settings...or...be prepared to embark on a long journey of discovery to run any other intake style.

[aircraftgrade]

I've got the download manual from here, a Clymer and a Haynes. In some aspects they all differ, like on the amount of bolts holding the crankcase halves together, I used the micro fiche from CMSNL as the referee for that fight.
I shall be back in the garage in the morning and see if I can dig something up.
When you say your cleaning the carbs, are you pulling the main jets and emulsifiers out. and the slow idle jets, they are pressed in. If your not, you aren't cleaning your carbs.

This is part of why I wanted a manual to reference, so I can identify what these different components are and what all can be removed during cleaning. I'm trying to do a thorough cleaning because the previous owner said they were recently cleaned...but the poor performance of the bike to idle tells me they weren't cleaned enough. I have some experience with carbs (about enough to be dangerous), and I'm trying to remove as much as I can, like you said.

Re kerryb: Agreed, I have all the stock intake components on the bike as I'm testing it.

Thanks for the feedback on the manual, I'll look around ebay for an OEM manual and run with it. In the meantime...does anybody have a picture of what all can be removed during cleaning, like a carb breakdown or anything?

[DaveBarbier]

Don’t split the carbs apart from each other but do take out all jets and adjustment screws.

And if it helps I took some pictures of the FSM on the carb settings.

[fizzlebottom]

Helm Inc. prints the correct FSM for all SOHC CB650 models, including addendums for the differences between everything from '79 to '82. Do not rely on Haynes, Chilton, or anything else except the correct FSM for this bike. It has too many single year-single model parts, including forks, front brakes, & carbs.

Get this manual: https://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class_2=AHC&Sku=6142603&itemtype=N

The '82 CB650 has VB44C carbs. '81 has VB44A carbs. The only difference between the two is that the C carbs have screw-in idle jets, and the A have press-in idle jets. Your carbs also came with a very lovely vacuum petcock system which everybody removes. Also notes that if your rubber carb insulators are hard as a rock then they're likely cracked and you have vacuum leaks out the wazoo. They can be replaced.

Your idle screw is at the bottom of your carb bank, directly in the middle. It is a large black knurled screw that you can tighten to increase idle and loosen to lower idle. Make small adjustments to get it to 1000rpm (+/-100).

There are about a million weird little quirks with this bike. I've found 40% of them. But damn is it fun to ride, and has a good kick in 2nd gear when you open it up. Get it running, but don't obsess over perfection. Just ride and enjoy.

[DaveBarbier]

Also, if you want some more fun, get the 674cc dynoman kit and send your top end to MRieck for porting. I did that and more and the bike is...quick.

[aircraftgrade]

Helm Inc. prints the correct FSM for all SOHC CB650 models, including addendums for the differences between everything from '79 to '82. Do not rely on Haynes, Chilton, or anything else except the correct FSM for this bike. It has too many single year-single model parts, including forks, front brakes, & carbs.

Get this manual: https://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class_2=AHC&Sku=6142603&itemtype=N

The '82 CB650 has VB44C carbs. '81 has VB44A carbs. The only difference between the two is that the C carbs have screw-in idle jets, and the A have press-in idle jets. Your carbs also came with a very lovely vacuum petcock system which everybody removes. Also notes that if your rubber carb insulators are hard as a rock then they're likely cracked and you have vacuum leaks out the wazoo. They can be replaced.

Your idle screw is at the bottom of your carb bank, directly in the middle. It is a large black knurled screw that you can tighten to increase idle and loosen to lower idle. Make small adjustments to get it to 1000rpm (+/-100).

There are about a million weird little quirks with this bike. I've found 40% of them. But damn is it fun to ride, and has a good kick in 2nd gear when you open it up. Get it running, but don't obsess over perfection. Just ride and enjoy.

This is the kind of tribal knowledge I came here for. Thank you for your (and others!) advice.

[fizzlebottom]

I didn't notice the image you posted in first post. Your vacuum petcock has been removed, so be thankful for that. The inline fuel filter is a great addition, because the original setup only had a filter inside the tank attached to the mechanical petcock. How stupid.

These carbs are finnicky. If you've rebuild them, they'll need to be synchronized with a manometer. A bench sync will get you running, but a final sync is needed to get them running right. If you've got your cam chain and valves adjusted correctly, the bike will probably still sound like a bucket of screws until the carbs are all sync'd near perfectly.

Some other fun bits:

• If you ever rebuild your front brakes and find pitting on the pistons, don't bother trying to find used replacements. Take the old ones to a local machine shop and have them make new ones.
• If you have to rebuild your forks and find pitting on the fork tubes, don't bother with used replacements unless they're spotless. Get new ones from Forks by Frank.
• The clutch can probably use some love. It is super easy to rebuild with new clutch discs, cable, and springs.
• Change your brake fluid. If the brake hoses are original, get some stainless steel replacements.
• Learn to live with oil leaking from between the head and cylinder block. Stuff a rag or paper towel in there to soak it up. Rebuild the top end during the off season if you're up for it.
• Enjoy finding 1/8th the content that all the other CB models get.