Topic: Euro handlebars not right measurements?

[Roby466]

This is the 4th set of bars I put on my bike. When I got it the bike had drag bars which were not very good at all, I then got a set of cafe bars which I modified to fit (widened them). They looked great but were very uncomfortable!!  Then K got the M bars from the guy in the UK (can’t remember the name). These were great!  I loved them but the bike being my wife’s (inherited in parts from her dad before I rebuilt it) she wants to ride it now that she has gained experience on my old XT600 but the low bars made the bike feel heavier than it should.
So...  i ordered a set of euro original aftermarket bars from David Sylver spares. The bar came in with the holes for the controls pre-cut. Now the problem is there is a gap between the left grip and controls. Distance from center is equal left and right...  is this normal?   
Thanks for the help once again!!
David

[rotortiller]

Looks the #$%*s, I'd get new bars un-drilled for wires and make the holes myself. Might try to make a new hole in the left bar more outboard so it becomes symmetrical provided there is enough room.

[Roby466]

I know!  It looks bad!  I was wondering in Euro bikes had a different signal controls box...  weird!  I’ll write to David Sylver spares first. They normally have a great reputation they might send another bar.

[chiefum]

These are the euro bars 53100-300-610P on my bike, I have the same issue. Let me know what DSS has to say, I have not contacted them yet.



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[Roby466]

Ah!  Interesting!!  Weird they do that!  I’ll post back here when they get back to me.

[Roby466]

By the way chiefum, I prefer those grips to the ones I have. Are they the original ones?  I better look again for them. Mine are a nit skinny and they make the throttle hard to hold after a while.

[chiefum]

By the way chiefum, I prefer those grips to the ones I have. Are they the original ones?  I better look again for them. Mine are a nit skinny and they make the throttle hard to hold after a while.

I believe these are called Gran Turismo style grips. When I purchased my bike, it came with this style. The old one's were quite a bit softer than the new one's.  I'll give them some time to see if they soften up.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Beston-Gran-Turismo-Style-Grips-7-8-Handlebar-Chopper-Bobber-Triumph-Bonneville/191710474090

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[chiefum]

Ah!  Interesting!!  Weird they do that!  I’ll post back here when they get back to me.

Thank you!

[bryanj]

There is a circular lights on off switch that is for some markets and would fit in there.
The UK right hand switch is an odd one and ir was easy to go straight to lights off when you didnt want to and the circular switch sorted it

[scunny]

I would just cut the ends off of the bar.

[Gordon]

I would just cut the ends off of the bar.

And it's Scunny for the win! 

[Don R]

 I did a 71 a couple years ago and bought the K1 euro bars by accident. I loved them but they also had that gap. It ended up in England.

[Doobie]

I had the same DSS handlebar on my CB750K6 and it's now on my CB750F3 and there's no gap in either case. It must be the DSS bar is only for later years because the switches and the holes line up differently (grips are different too).


Top is K, bottom is F

[PeWe]

My K2 has also that gap. I have not yet done anything about it.
Handle bar from a German eBay seller. K2 switches from 4into1.
I'll cut the handle bar 3-5mm. If gap is 2 mm no problem.

[rotortiller]

I would just cut the ends off of the bar.

That would make the bars uneven if you only cut one end. If you cut both ends then I reason you created a problem at the other side as that hole will no longer line up when the grip and switch are moved inboard.

[andy750]

Very interesting so I had to go check my K2 and K4 as at least one of them has the DSS K1 bars ( I thought both but see below)

K4





K2

[PeWe]

Very interesting so I had to go check my K2 and K4 as at least one of them has the DSS K1 bars ( I thought both but see below)

K4





K2

Your K2 has later switches, right?

[andy750]

Your K2 has later switches, right?
[/quote]

Ah good point. I believe you are correct.

[PeWe]

My photo has real fake K2 switches that look exact as K2. The peg location too since other old switches have same "problem".
It seems that this model of handlebar fits K3 and later better.
I did not know that the location of  peg in switch differ.

I'll use my new tiger saw and cut bar a little when I have time and up for it.
I need to check throttle side too if bar can be cut.
If only left side, bar will be moved a little sideways to compensate. I'll not do the entire gap. Half or more will improve.

[Roby466]

Hi,
Pewe, what is that extra button under your horn button?
And on the later switch, what is the hi lo for on the left switch?
Cutting the left handlebar will leave them uneven, cutting the right side will not fix it as the throttle also has a locating pin.
DSS told me they believe the original US market switches had no locating pin.  I am pretty certain the bike has original switches, father-in-law parked it in 1977 and it hadn't been touched until I restored it so I'm pretty certain I have the original switch, it says HM-100B-1 under the signal lever.

[PeWe]

It is blinker buzzer off button. It switch off the buzzer when pressed. Typical K2.  Right switch also typical K2 with its specific shaped kill switch.

The gap is 5mm on my bike. No problem to cut 3mm on both sides. I'll see if I need to cut the throttle pipe too.

[Roby466]

Thanks PeWe,
interesting functionality the blinker buzzer.
My gap is much more than 6mm, most likely almost 20mm so it will take a lot of cutting on that side.  Maybe if I remove the locating pins in the switches I will have more play before the wires get pinched but I am not sure if it will hold tight enough without the pins.  Oh well, I'll see I suppose since there doesn't seem to be an easy solution to keep it even.
Cheers
David

[PeWe]

My K2 has the blinker buzzer attached and connected. Good reminder to not forget it on and get cars in front of you from a connecting road.

I was waiting at a red light with blinkers on and the buzzer alarm that sounds when blinker is not lit.
People in car in front of me started to look what the alarm was about. They had a car without roof. Half tent, half car!!
Must have been a cheaper version

I can sometimes press button and avoid the alarm when blinkers is used.
It was difficult to find CB750 buzzer. Most people must have done what I did with my K6 soon after purchase, removed and forgot it.

I found a Goldwing buzzer with 3 leads. Had to find a Goldwing diagram to verify which lead I should not use.
CB750 buzzers have only 2 leads.
K3-K6 have no buzzer off button.

[Roby466]

That buzzer option sounds like a good idea so I don’t look like that guy riding along with signal lights on... 

Thanks!

It appears there is no other model reproduction bars that would not have that gap so I’ll have to see about modifying them for better fit.

Thanks for the help and discussion!

David

[strynboen]

make a nice alu spacer..

[RAFster122s]

You really are considering cutting both sides of the bar for a problem that exists in the left side only. I bet you cannot see that small difference if only left is cut and you will not feel it either.

[Doobie]

The gap doesn't bother me visually and I'm usually OCD about little things like that. My first impression was that it's off in the same way many vintage things tend to be a bit off -- quirky but in a good way.

[Erny]

I bought the same handlebars from CMSNL
did not installed them yet, but I target them to CB750 K7 (cables routed outside of bars)
For couriousity, I can check if I have the same as you - what is distance of hole from left bar end?

I purchased mine in March, 2019

[PeWe]

It make the extra touch with cables hidden inside the bar.

[Roby466]

Erny, thanks for checking.
The distance between the end of the bar to the center of the smaller locating pin hole is 6 3/8 in (or 16.2cm).
Note that I had to approximate the end as my grips are installed.
Thanks!
David

[Don R]

 I love the wires in the bars. It's a challenge and a pain, and so cool when it's done. 

[Doobie]

I love the wires in the bars. It's a challenge and a pain, and so cool when it's done.

I swapped handlebars on my CB750F a couple of weeks ago and it was a real PITA and a relief when the ordeal was over. I've done this three times on different bikes and each time I swear it will be the last.

[Roby466]

Many times for me...  still a pain and then there are always a couple of wires that you’re not too sure where they go in the headlight housing because their colour has faded differently than their male or female counterpart...  so much fun

[PeWe]

My wires went in smoothly.
I read about it here when I searched about it.
Taped the harness to avoid loose ends when entering from each side and out in the middle.