Topic: Polishing engine cases

[Scott S]

 So I know HOW to polish engine cases and such. I have an OK buffing wheel set up, I know all about elbow grease and using different grades of sand paper, etc. I also know it's kind of a sucky job!

 I'm wondering about removing the clear coat while the covers are still on the bike (full disclosure: this is a CB450 twin, but the procedure applies to any SOHC4, too).
 The engine isn't leaking at all. The clutch cover still has the factory screws on it. If I remove the covers, I'll need new gaskets and risk creating a leak.

  I'll probably remove the small covers on the head, probably even the sprocket cover, but the alternator and clutch cover I would like to do in-situ. How much oil is behind the alternator cover on a 450?
  If I used paint stripper to remove the clear coat while the covers are still installed, do you think it would damage any gaskets, etc?

[69cb750]

Paint stripper, sand paper, wire wheel they all work.

[onepieceatatime]

If you are referring to the small alternator cover, put it on the center stand with a 1 inch board under the left side of the stand, it should minimize the oil coming out of the alternator cover. If you try to do it just on the center stand, you will have an oil puddle. I had the alternator cover on and off a few times trying to get my '74 CB540 running right, and it seems to be fine. If you are refering to the larger cover, with allen head bolts in your photo, I don't know the answer. I had the valve covers off to adjust the valves, and the exhaust side cover is leaking now, so even being careful you may have to replace some of the gaskets.

[Scott S]

 I found a full gasket set for ~$30. Might just do it the right way...and hope that none of the clutch cover screws fight me.

 I am curious about removing the small covers at the valve adjustment cams. I know you remove the nut completely, and try to not pull out the cams. Can they be easily removed without screwing up timing, etc.?

[onepieceatatime]

If you remove the nut, the force of removing them, and reinstalling them is likely to mess up the adjustment. It is a very tight tolerance on those valves, and they can be a little tricky to lock down without messing up the adjustment.
All of the screws are original on mine, except for one on the alternator cover I had to replace. Many of them did not want to come loose even with a JIS bit in an impact screwdriver, but penetrating oil, heat, patience, and a big hammer (for the impact driver) did the trick.

[HondaMan]

I have also started the on-bike-polish process with a (new) wire wheel in a drill. It's tedious, but it can strip the clearcoat off quite well. The wheels come in both stiff-wire and soft-wire versions: I use both, depending on how 'cured' the old clearcoat has become. At the end I use Simichrome (wear gloves or your hands will be black for weeks!) as a rouge. It seems to work faster than anything else I've ever used, and it seals the surface forever as it shines it up.

[seanbarney41]

I have used fine steel wool and/or red scotch brite to remove the clear in a more gentle fashion than a wire brush driven electrically.  +1 to simichrome afterwards...or other commercially available aluminum polishes such as mothers, etc.  You may never achieve the highly polished perfection of wet sanding and a buffing wheel, but very attractive finish can be achieved relatively quickly and easily.