Author Topic: Alan's CB750 K8 (Read 14190 times)

Alan F. · « **Reply #75 on:** May 04, 2021, 07:45:43 PM »

Another thread concerning, "should I use these sprockets?" got me thinking and now I'll probably buy some new ones. After a couple minutes on eBay it looks like $47 is my low price for my 630 15/41 set from seller parts_giant, I've bought from them before, good seller.

Edit: $49.95 after Internet Sales Tax....

Alan F. · « **Reply #76 on:** May 07, 2021, 06:49:27 AM »

Yeah so I'll be leaving the clear anodize on my 750A wheels, just spotted this pic and had to post it here, been light on pics lately.

that clear anodize wears pretty well:

RAFster122s · « **Reply #77 on:** May 07, 2021, 11:58:17 AM »

So, instead of a barn find it is a pine forest find...

Alan F. · « **Reply #78 on:** May 12, 2021, 03:05:04 PM »

This afternoon I somehow found some rare motivation to head down to the shop and get something accomplished.

I've got a nice but bare front hub I picked up from a member a while back, I'm planning to build my K8 front wheel around this hub, but I'll need the axle, bearing retainer, speedometer drive and distance collar from my K3 wheel.
So I dug out the front wheel from my K3, removed the spokes and stored them. Clamped the front axle nut in my vise and found a suitable steel rod to break the axle loose. It took a few tries but when I found one that just fit the hole in the axle it broke loose easily. Then I chucked .150" drill bit in my drill press and drilled out the staking. I'd never done this before, but I remember lots of threads where it was important to drill deep enough. I found it very easy to tell when I'd drilled deep enough by feel, just as some threads had said. Then I clamped the hub in my vise and used a 6 penny nail to tap the bearing retainer loose, I placed the head against the retainer slots and tapped against the point of the nail. It worked very well and the retainer came out easily and undamaged. I deburred the threads with an exacto knife and threaded it fully into the spare hub with just a fingernail against the slots.

Then I spent a few minutes trying to tap the bearings out. I spent just enough time to learn that this is going to be a real pain in the ass and I'm probably going to need to heat up the hub. That's where my day ended, I wish the hub had pissed me off but it didn't, instead my gf texted me with a honey-do task that did. I should have finished all of my projects when I was single maybe.

Alan F. · « **Reply #79 on:** May 12, 2021, 08:42:56 PM »

I'll be picking up a suitably sized concrete anchor to tighten inside the wheel bearing inner race, then I can just hammer the bearing out from the other side head on without trying to push the center spacer out of the way.

Front bearings are 6302 ID= 15mm = 9/16" 16= 5/8"
Rears are 6304 ID= 20mm = 13/16"
Sprocket carrier uses a 6305 ID= 25mm = 1"

Edit 5-21-21: I suppose I'll bring the bearings with me to be sure.

Alan F. · « **Reply #80 on:** May 23, 2021, 05:12:37 PM »

Yeah, I didn't bring the damn bearings with me. Scratch Ace Hardware off the list for sleeve anchors, I picked up one of these that fits the rear wheel bearings though, maybe after I've got those out I'll chuck it in my lathe and cut it down for the fronts?

Ace Hardware did have Rustoleum Apliance Epoxy in their Stainless Steel color, their number is 7887830.
I'll use this for the frame on another project, and I'm thinking of using it on my front and rear hubs, sprocket carrier and brake plate, maybe a few other items too.

I found this (because Scottly said it existed) as an answer to a thread that came up, it's member Smudgemo's 3D printed starter button housing http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,163170.50.html online purchase link is in the thread, I picked up 2 while they're available just in case, the guts of the old switch are reused, so bag them if you open the RH switch pod.

Looks like it fits tons of bikes that have the headlight cut-out through the start button.

Alan F. · « **Reply #81 on:** May 25, 2021, 07:43:25 AM »

Hoping to score this seat today, it's only 33 miles out of my way on a long work trip.

https://westernmass.craigslist.org/mpo/d/montague-honda-cb-750-seat/7310068402.html

RAFster122s · « **Reply #82 on:** May 25, 2021, 08:46:56 AM »

Hope you get it Alan, nice looking seat.

Alan F. · « **Reply #83 on:** May 25, 2021, 08:03:33 PM »

Thanks, John was a really cool guy telling stories of his K8 and a 750F3 he had picked up from an old Vermonter years back, and he had a 550 too....

For the asking price of $60 I got the seat pictured plus a few extras!
A perfect condition double-bucket touring seat.
Stock handlebars from his k8
A clutch perch
An inoperable master cylinder from 4into1 that he said never made pressure so he just bought another?....?
A beat up Haynes manual with lots of notes in the margins and what looks like a photocopied Honda Manual (I didn't look too closely)
And a set of exhaust collars and spacers for a 550
I'm not sure if I'm forgetting anything but I'll try getting a group photo tomorrow.

I'm really glad I made the trip.

Alan F. · « **Reply #84 on:** May 29, 2021, 02:22:10 PM »

Got out to Home Depot to get the correct 5/8" and 1/2" sleeve anchors. Receipt pic has SKU numbers to help others, pic of label has the rest of the bag trimmed off for better presentation.

You can probably find shorter lengths and save a few pennies, I was happy to find these.

Alan F. · « **Reply #85 on:** June 25, 2021, 12:47:20 PM »

Found a CB750A field coil on eBay a few weeks ago, seemed like an ok deal, last week I got an offer email from eBay....it arrived today, is the correct part number, measures 14.1 ohms for under $22 at my door.
I'll accept the slight increase in system output.

Alan F. · « **Reply #86 on:** August 20, 2021, 02:40:46 PM »

I was just reminded of the push-button latch for the tank lid:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,165975.0.html

Now I wont forget. I hope.

HondaMan · « **Reply #87 on:** August 20, 2021, 09:33:40 PM »

Quote from: Alan F. on June 25, 2021, 12:47:20 PM

Found a CB750A field coil on eBay a few weeks ago, seemed like an ok deal, last week I got an offer email from eBay....it arrived today, is the correct part number, measures 14.1 ohms for under $22 at my door.
I'll accept the slight increase in system output.

Hey! I have that same DVM! How old is yours? I got mine in 1997.

Alan F. · « **Reply #88 on:** August 21, 2021, 02:24:07 PM »

I'm not exactly sure how old it is. It came with a Field Service job I started in 2005 and was layed off from in 2011. Luckily I was on my bike that day and they never thought to ask for my tools back.

Alan F. · « **Reply #89 on:** January 22, 2022, 07:29:53 AM »

With this project hiding in storage and no actual shop space to work in I've been left alone to my thoughts (and a few other smaller bikes) I've always liked the combo Terry bolted together in his K0, it seems like a better than average ride, and so I did a pile of research & wound up finding good deals on a K0 cam and a set of CB77 pistons with all the trimmings in good nick just removed from a CB750 in CT. I'm torn between building my K3 or this K8 with these parts, but they'll probably go into the K8.

And I've got to find a good wiring harness for this bike too, but there aren't many around. I could always wire it up as a K3 and ditch the ugly dashboard, I'd have to pick up a few bits & bobs but they're plentiful & cheap, and K3 harnesses can be found. Decisions, decisions.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #90 on:** January 22, 2022, 09:11:14 AM »

Alan, i was just recently browsing wiring harness'...pretty sure i saw nos k8 only harness at jtmarks ebay store.

Alan F. · « **Reply #91 on:** January 22, 2022, 09:30:06 AM »

Thank you, that would probably be worth the price. I'll have to have a look after Feb.13. It looks like confidence is high that this eBay store will be returning.
All I can see now is:

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #92 on:** January 22, 2022, 02:24:34 PM »

Allan.... Vintagecb750.com sells a specific K8 wiring harness. I have used a couple of theirs and they are OK.

Don R · « **Reply #93 on:** January 22, 2022, 04:48:41 PM »

The only catch in the replacement wiring harnesses I've found is the male to male jumper for the US style headlight/start switches. May not be an issue on K8 but I'd bet it is.

Alan F. · « **Reply #94 on:** January 22, 2022, 05:12:00 PM »

Thanks everyone, I have found them but I want to admit that I've been quite put off aftermarket harnesses since the Hondaman threads about how to "Correct" aftermarket harnesses to work reliably for the long term. I've been very leary of spending ~$150 on one only to have it burn up or give me cause for hours of troubleshooting madness.

I do appreciate an approved recommendation from the both of you. Thank you both very much.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #95 on:** January 22, 2022, 05:27:38 PM »

I did use them in two K8s I restored with a friend. Don’t recall any issues and they are both running reliably. Probably +8-10 years.

Alan F. · « **Reply #96 on:** January 22, 2022, 05:31:05 PM »

That's all the confidence I need, thank you so much for speaking up about this!

RAFster122s · « **Reply #97 on:** January 22, 2022, 08:18:57 PM »

Having dealt with wiring rot in what appeared to be perfectly good wire visually, black wire rot, I would rather change a harness with new wire if it appears that wire was good quality. Dodgy terminations are a pain when you have to pull out magnifying glasses to see it has some corrosion in the crimp. Haven't had that issue on my Honda's but have seen that issue on quick disconnect crimps that were factory crimps and sometimes they were in connector blocks and sometimes they were not. Pain in butt to troubleshoot...

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #98 on:** January 22, 2022, 09:46:48 PM »

Benelli...does Canadian K8 have an on/off switch for the headlight? If yes, that may be why those repro harness' worked easy for you.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #99 on:** January 22, 2022, 10:46:25 PM »

subscribed

News:

Author Topic: Alan's CB750 K8 (Read 14190 times)