Topic: CB550 ignition timing issue

[Kcanela]

Issue: bike popped and bangs and lost power, smelled like rotten eggs after.

Problem: ignition timing, 1/4 had a burnt tip, so that makes me believe it’s the problem I set the ignition before so it wasn’t like that from PO.

Question: I’m trying to set ignition timing again and now 1/4 are touching after 180 degrees before when I did it they moved around a full rotation.
Is there a reason why now they points aren’t matching up ?

[bryanj]

I'm sorry i dont understand what you are saying
1 what tip is burnt?
2 you must have clean and flat point set to a gap of 0.35mm when the points are at the max opening point
3 you set the timing so points just open as the F mark lines up with static mark.

Getting both 2 & 3 exactly right can be a real frustrating thing to do as when you rotate the plate the gap alters and when you alter the gap the timing alters, it can take literaly hours to get both the gap and timing spot on for both sets of points but it is a vitaly important thing for good, safe running and long engine life

[Kcanela]

The tip of firing points on 1/4 were burnt, my issue is as I turn the ignition to align the points 1/4 want to close shorter than when I did the timing before instead of being gapped at F 1/4 and having them open after rotation to almost closing again it’s doing it sooner than it should and I’m not sure why that is if that makes sense. 1/4 are wanting to connect when I’m at F for 2/3

[bryanj]

You havent got the points gap correct and possibly the condenser is bad

[Kcanela]

That’s what I feel like happened, one of them got fried from me riding with 1/4 arching

My question now is should I upgrade to an electric one? If so what’s a good one to buy I can’t find any people saying which is best

[bryanj]

Personaly dont like any off them but ive worked on Hondas for 40 years and understand them.
Your money your choice

[BomberMann650]

The popping does correlate with a bad condenser.

[HondaMan]

Here is the simplest way to set the points, provided they are TEC or Hitachi brand (if they are Daiichi brand then it is harder to do):
1. Set the 1-4 points to 0.014"/0.35mm gap when the crankshaft is 90 degrees (1/4 turn) past the 1-4 "T" mark. Note: use the kickstarter or the electric starter to bump to this position: do not use the large nut by the points unless you first remove all sparkplugs, as it can bend the shaft if the plugs are in.
2. Turn the engine 1/2 turn from there and set the 2-3 points to the same gap.
3. If you have a strobe timing light: run the engine at idle speed and check the timing for the 1-4 side first: slightly loosen the 3 baseplate screws to turn the entire plate for this adjustment. If you only have a static light, connect a battery charger to the bike's battery first, turn on the ignition and connect the light across the points: then turn the engine slowly over in the Clockwise direction ONLY with the big nut and adjust the baseplate until the light comes on at the "F" mark for 1-4 cylinders. Tighten the 3 screws back down.
4. Now repeat step 3 but for the 2-3 set of points, using the small subplate to adjust the position of the points.

If the timing comes ON too soon (too advanced) you can reduce the gap to as small as 0.012"/0.30mm to retard the timing.
If the timing is too slow (comes ON too late past the "F" marks) you can open the gap up to as much as 0.016"/0.40mm.

If the points are DAIICHI brand (which have a tiny 3-leaf-clover emblem stamped on them), then they will likely not time up correctly. The lower ground arm on Daiich points must be bent closer to the moving point portion in order to time up, in most cases. Also, Daiich condensors are known for their failures, and new ones fail in less than 100 miles, typically. The TEC points plate assembly from Honda is made by TEC and works far better.

The CB550 does not make enough electrical power to run a Dyna S or Charlie's Place solid-state electronic ignition unless you also reduce the headlight power (like with an LED headlight bulb) and use higher-resistance coils, like the Dyna 5-ohm variety. Even then, the battery must be in top condition and the bike ridden at mostly high RPM hiway speeds, or the battery will always be very low. If you use points, as Honda intended, it will fare far better. I also make a Transistor Ignition that was designed expressly for this bike because of its low-power situation, and after you get the points working properly and set, and the condensors working, you can install this as a plug-in device that will stop the points from wearing after that.

[Deltarider]

I cannot recommend to adjust the timing dynamically. It's too much a hassle with the plate vibrating.
What I like best:
Check breakerpoints gap like Hondaman describes or use a Dwell or Duty Cycle meter.
Then time statically. Anywhere between the 'F' Mark and the standing leg of the F is OK, but... you want to have 1+4 and 2+3 the same!
Now check dynamically with a strobe the advance and the timing fully advanced. When fully advanced the timing is not where you want it to be, stop engine, loosen the three crossheads and adjust the plate a fraction (clockwise > retard, counterclockwise < advance). Then start engine and check again. You may have to repeat this step. Again: do not try to adjust the plate with the engine running.
Focus on the timing @ full advance and accept what it results in @ idle.
Note that all the above steps are only needed if the ignition has been tampered with, either by you or by a PO.
Back in the days, most Honda mecs needn't even touch the three crossheads, as practically all off timing originated at a changed breakerpoints gap. Readjusting them usually was enough*.
It's when amateurs started reading manuals that problems began and the use of aftermarket products made things even worse.
*  BTW, I could easily do 20.000 kms without ever have to adjust anything.