Topic: Noticed a couple things on my first rides yesterday

[grcamna2]

I hope you open up those carbs and see what's-up with those floats.. That'll keep happening if it isn't rectified.

[Pielz]

Yeah, a few of the floats must have gotten moved out of adjustment when I took the carbs apart. I had to take the bowls off and test each one to see if it was actually sealing.

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[grcamna2]

Yeah, a few of the floats must have gotten moved out of adjustment when I took the carbs apart. I had to take the bowls off and test each one to see if it was actually sealing.

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ok, I hope you remove the floats and post pics of the 4 of them,where we can see each float 'tang' where there is most likely wear.

[scottly]

You might want to see if the vent in your gas cap is plugged?

[Pielz]

I'll just buy some new floats some time. For what they are, they're kinda pricey though. For now, it still drips a few drops of gas out of the overflow tube when I'm stopped which kinda sucks. I think it's just a matter of float adjustment as I was able to lift those 2 floats up a bit and stop most of the dribbling. Carbs can be such a PITA

Also the gas cap vent was something that plagued me for a while. I was able to use compressed air and wd40 a while back to blow whatever crud was blocking it out and it hasn't given me a vacuum problem since

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[grcamna2]

Yeah,those floats can be a pita.
The ones with the brass tanks,they last a good while,unless water gets in the bowls and corrodes them,etc..The hard foam ones are great until they get 'fuel heavy' from absorbing gasoline in the bowl for decades.

[Pielz]

Are these the foam kind? I figured they were just plastic actually! This is an old pic btw, not the state of my carbs now fortunately haha

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[grcamna2]

Yes,Those are the special factory fuel resistant styrofoam(I think?)type.They absorb fuel over time,it keeps them from responding as nicely to the rising fuel level in the bowl,imo.I would like to see the other side of them at the float tangs.

[Pielz]

Yes,Those are the special factory fuel resistant styrofoam(I think?)type.They absorb fuel over time,it keeps them from responding as nicely to the rising fuel level in the bowl,imo.I would like to see the other side of them at the float tangs.

They sorta bend a little. The tang isn't flat anymore it's sorta curved up from being adjusted. They're not deformed or anything or wrinkled/kinked. But dang you're gonna make me spend 50 bucks on fleabay, dangit Bill! Lol
 
Any website you'd suggest other than eBay for these? Or should I just grab some from 4into1?

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[grcamna2]

Yes,Those are the special factory fuel resistant styrofoam(I think?)type.They absorb fuel over time,it keeps them from responding as nicely to the rising fuel level in the bowl,imo.I would like to see the other side of them at the float tangs.

They sorta bend a little. The tang isn't flat anymore it's sorta curved up from being adjusted. They're not deformed or anything or wrinkled/kinked. But dang you're gonna make me spend 50 bucks on fleabay, dangit Bill! Lol
 
Any website you'd suggest other than eBay for these? Or should I just grab some from 4into1?

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Oh  , I see now those are pricey.They make the bike run SO MUCH better when they're on and running where they should  Do you have part#16013-KCY-670 ?? 
There is a site up in WA. state South Sound Honda. They sell the OEM floats for $31.68ea. www.hondabikes.com

[Pielz]

I wonder what the quality comparison is like between a 4 pack for 50 bucks from 4into1 and 4 for 120? Also I run purely ethanol free so I'm not too worried about ethanol messing with them

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[grcamna2]

I wonder what the quality comparison is like between a 4 pack for 50 bucks from 4into1 and 4 for 120? Also I run purely ethanol free so I'm not too worried about ethanol messing with them

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I'm not sure about 4into1,I never installed them,may be ok;other members here might speak to that.
I am familiar with the quality of oem Honda,they last a long time.

[Pielz]

I wonder what the quality comparison is like between a 4 pack for 50 bucks from 4into1 and 4 for 120? Also I run purely ethanol free so I'm not too worried about ethanol messing with them

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I'm not sure about 4into1,I never installed them,may be ok;other members here might speak to that.
I am familiar with the quality of oem Honda,they last a long time.

I'm usually a big fan of getting OEM if I can afford it. I'll be anxious to see if anyone else chips on with their experience cause if I can save 70 bucks I'd like to lol

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[grcamna2]

I wonder what the quality comparison is like between a 4 pack for 50 bucks from 4into1 and 4 for 120? Also I run purely ethanol free so I'm not too worried about ethanol messing with them

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I'm not sure about 4into1,I never installed them,may be ok;other members here might speak to that.
I am familiar with the quality of oem Honda,they last a long time.

I'm usually a big fan of getting OEM if I can afford it. I'll be anxious to see if anyone else chips on with their experience cause if I can save 70 bucks I'd like to lol

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Yes,I agree.
There are other members here who have experience with both and probably long-term:how long do 4into1 floats last compared to oem floats ? I know Honda parts have manufacturers who supply them with the best quality parts available,when they don't manufacture them in house.

[scottly]

I thought you said the flooding was caused by the vent tubes getting pinched, and once cleared the problem went away?

[Pielz]

I thought you said the flooding was caused by the vent tubes getting pinched, and once cleared the problem went away?

It did.. temporarily. Today when I saw it was happening again I went on a quick ride to see if it may fix itself. And my buddy riding behind me didn't see any drips when it was running but at stop lights it leaves a pretty decent puddle. I guess I'll order floats and needles and rip the carbs off again. Do you recommend OEM floats over something from like 4into1?

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[Pielz]

I wonder what the quality comparison is like between a 4 pack for 50 bucks from 4into1 and 4 for 120? Also I run purely ethanol free so I'm not too worried about ethanol messing with them

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I'm not sure about 4into1,I never installed them,may be ok;other members here might speak to that.
I am familiar with the quality of oem Honda,they last a long time.

I'm usually a big fan of getting OEM if I can afford it. I'll be anxious to see if anyone else chips on with their experience cause if I can save 70 bucks I'd like to lol

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Yes,I agree.
There are other members here who have experience with both and probably long-term:how long do 4into1 floats last compared to oem floats ? I know Honda parts have manufacturers who supply them with the best quality parts available,when they don't manufacture them in house.

Yeah I'm hoping someone will be able to weigh in. Maybe I'll start a new topic or something. See if there's something on an old thread maybe

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[Pielz]

Gas was even backing up in to the airbox.

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[MauiK3]

Have to check for little burrs at the pin interface

[Pielz]

Have to check for little burrs at the pin interface

I actually chocked a q tip in a drill with a small amount of degreaser on the tip and polished up the float needles seats. They look really nice inside. Carbs are so frustrating when they don't work right.

Edit: oh wait you mean the pins not the needles! I will check that. I couldn't feel any burrs or resistance or anything when I moved the floats by hand but that's probably a poor measuring tool haha

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[seanbarney41]

Have to check for little burrs at the pin interface

I actually chocked a q tip in a drill with a small amount of degreaser on the tip and polished up the float needles seats. They look really nice inside. Carbs are so frustrating when they don't work right.

Edit: oh wait you mean the pins not the needles! I will check that. I couldn't feel any burrs or resistance or anything when I moved the floats by hand but that's probably a poor measuring tool haha

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When you do that you destroy the shape of the mating surface.  It will take a long time for them to wear back in so that they seal.  You have to be a little more selective about certain advice given on the internet.  Especially when it involves using power tools on extremely tiny precision parts.  Had you simply cleaned these gently with chemicals and finger power they would be fine. 

Of course they still might work.  Please, everyone stop the overflowing float madness.  Everytime you disturb the carburetors it is gonna take a bit for these tiny float valves to settle in and start working correctly.  So, when your freshly rebuilt for the third time carbs piss gas
    1.  Shut the petcock off and run the engine until they stop pissing, turn the petcock back and see what happens, repeat.
    2.   Smacking the float bowl with a small weight of some sort or any general movement or vibration of the bike (i.e. riding in a safe, controlled environment!)often is all it takes.  Give them time.   Turn the petcock off and on to control fuel loss/mess.
    3.    Turn petcock on let the bowls fill till they overflow.  Turn petcock off.  Remove associated bowl drain screw.  Turn petcock on and let a considerable amount of fuel flow out the drain.  Turn petcock off.  Replace bowl drain screw.  Try it again.  Repeat.

If you have completely gone through these three steps several times and you still have overflow, you can be sure you effed something up.  Tear the carbs apart and find it.

[ekpent]

  I would not spend the money on new floats yet till you really find out what the problem is. Never had to replace a plastic one for failure on any round top carbs, not sure if the later pd are problematic but I doubt it. Now brass floats that's a different story.

[grcamna2]

Pics of all 4) float with tangs up might help us see if there's wear.

[Pielz]

Have to check for little burrs at the pin interface

I actually chocked a q tip in a drill with a small amount of degreaser on the tip and polished up the float needles seats. They look really nice inside. Carbs are so frustrating when they don't work right.

Edit: oh wait you mean the pins not the needles! I will check that. I couldn't feel any burrs or resistance or anything when I moved the floats by hand but that's probably a poor measuring tool haha

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When you do that you destroy the shape of the mating surface.  It will take a long time for them to wear back in so that they seal.  You have to be a little more selective about certain advice given on the internet.  Especially when it involves using power tools on extremely tiny precision parts.  Had you simply cleaned these gently with chemicals and finger power they would be fine. 

Of course they still might work.  Please, everyone stop the overflowing float madness.  Everytime you disturb the carburetors it is gonna take a bit for these tiny float valves to settle in and start working correctly.  So, when your freshly rebuilt for the third time carbs piss gas
    1.  Shut the petcock off and run the engine until they stop pissing, turn the petcock back and see what happens, repeat.
    2.   Smacking the float bowl with a small weight of some sort or any general movement or vibration of the bike (i.e. riding in a safe, controlled environment!)often is all it takes.  Give them time.   Turn the petcock off and on to control fuel loss/mess.
    3.    Turn petcock on let the bowls fill till they overflow.  Turn petcock off.  Remove associated bowl drain screw.  Turn petcock on and let a considerable amount of fuel flow out the drain.  Turn petcock off.  Replace bowl drain screw.  Try it again.  Repeat.

If you have completely gone through these three steps several times and you still have overflow, you can be sure you effed something up.  Tear the carbs apart and find it.

Dang, really? That's upsetting. I hope not. I figured a cotton q tip would be totally innocuous. I'll follow those steps and see what happens.

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[grcamna2]

Pielz,
How many different carburetor types have you worked on before ?