Topic: Broke an engine stud flush with the case...

[Medyo Bastos]

...gotdammit


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[Medyo Bastos]

Got it




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[Stev-o]

Did you use the welder that was under the bed?!

[dragracer]

Did you use the welder that was under the bed?!

Good one Steve o

[MRieck]

Did you use the welder that was under the bed?!

Come on.....we all know welders are kept in the bedroom closet.

[Medyo Bastos]

i did grab it from under my bed!


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[PeWe]

I recently removed the cylinder studs from a 1975 750 case I have.
Same thing as my K6 years ago. It is much easier to get them to move by tightening with a quick, short twist by both hands. "Click", and remove them.

I used 2 std M8 nuts locking each other, held by 2  12mm spanners with constant torque together. Both hands needed.

Remove direct did not work, had tighten to the "click".

[Alan F.]

I recently removed the cylinder studs from a 1975 750 case I have.
Same thing as my K6 years ago. It is much easier to get them to move by tightening with a quick, short twist by both hands. "Click", and remove them.

I used 2 std M8 nuts locking each other, held by 2  12mm spanners with constant torque together. Both hands needed.

Remove direct did not work, had tighten to the "click".

I removed all but two on my K8 this way, these came out easily with two pair of vise-grip locking pliers as low on the studs as possible.

[johno]

If you get a tight one their a pain, I always give them an overnight soak with a squirt of thread lubricant, then give them a good tap on the top while it is still wet to jar the threads and help the penetrant to soak in, same again the next day then lots of tapping on top and sides of stud to jar the threads again then use a heat gun or flame to warm the alloy then bam do the two spanner trick discussed last thread, if feels tight still and not right then I get someone to tap the top of stud while I do the big turn. Be guided by the feel of the stud.....if it feels like it will break then it will so leave, soak again and lots of tapping the stud etc

[Alan F.]

I was noticing how much my two stuck studs were twisting with the double nut and 2 wrenches method.

Next time I'll have to find a silver sharpie to draw a vertical line on the stud and make a video showing just how much the stud twists without breaking loose or snapping.

I thought I was seeing 20 to 30 degrees of twist. I really didn't want to fuss with a broken stud though so I moved on to other methods.

[PeWe]

The old Honda stock studs are really flexible.

[MRieck]

The old Honda stock studs are really flexible.

Is that a euphemism for soft?

[Medyo Bastos]

Yeah, i double nutted, and righty tightied before i leftie loosied...


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[PeWe]

The old Honda stock studs are really flexible.

Is that a euphemism for soft?

Not really, it return to its orientation like a spring. Only soft, stay twisted.
The stock studs can withstand rather much abuse.

[Stev-o]

Yeah, i double nutted, and righty tightied before i leftie loosied...

Thats how it broke?

[Medyo Bastos]

Yes, it is. It was still tough to take out, even with the heat involved.


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[johno]

Hell Medyo, when I seen you on this thread again I thought bugger, not another one  glad its not

[Medyo Bastos]

Hell Medyo, when I seen you on this thread again I thought bugger, not another one  glad its not

No, not another, lol


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[PeWe]

A new nick name Studman or just The Stud!

[Stev-o]

A new nick name Studman or just The Stud!

"The Stud Breaker"!!

[Don R]

 That sounds painful.

[Tracksnblades1]

Yeah, i double nutted, and righty tightied before i leftie loosied...


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I always preferred double nutting a righty tighty over a lefty loosey....
Both both are good just a little different 😎

[Don R]

 By the way, thanks for posting the fix. Often, we never see of hear what the result was.

[Medyo Bastos]

Don it took a good amount of effort even with the heat involved from building the weld to the top of the nut. I’ve never had one that tough before. It is a good thing the cases are aluminum

I honestly don’t waste my time with easy outs anymore. They break more often than not. I’ve used this way several times with great results.


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[valt]

Honestly if I am having trouble with the studs and they are just going to be junk. I just heat them and bend them, then just use the stud itself to break it loose. Like a giant allen wrench!

[754]

And when that breaks off, then what method do you use ?
 
 I have 2 or 3 left in a F case I gave up on.. my buddy has an inductor , will try that next time i touch them..

[CR750]

Plenty of WD40/penetrating oil daily applied over an amount of time of say a week or so. Do this with heat ( it helps, from experience) After say day 4 weld a nut ( after thoroughly cleaning the stud end with degreaser or so. If you get a good weld, start with applying pressure with a regular battery drill, and use the slipclutch to get a modest vibration going, I usually do that back and forth, just to 'massage it' niet intending to break it free).. Then apply heat again plenty of WD40 to soak in and slowly build pressure with a manual wrench ( extend with a piece of tube if you need to ). If all else fails, get the real (air) hammer wrench, cross fingers and go for it..50/50 the nut or stud breaks loose. When it's the nut, reweld and try again, if not to be rewelded... drill the mf-er and coil it...also a 50/50 chance depending on how it broke and such.. or accept defeat.
Mostly I win somewhere along this process... Alu and steel joints are more forgiving ( due to heat expansion rates etc) imo then steel/steel. These are sometimes really 'welded' together from the corrosion. Speaking of neglected equipment that has stood outdoors for years on end and such.

[Medyo Bastos]

Is wd40 penetrating oil?


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[754]

Is wd40 penetrating oil?


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 It's magical, if I told  you everything it could do....they would kill me..

[MRieck]

Try a product called Houdini.  https://www.amazon.com/HOUD1-Houdini-Lock-Lube/dp/B00C5JFKKE/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=houdini+spray&qid=1596584647&sr=8-1   It is really, really good

[CR750]

Is wd40 penetrating oil?
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strictly put it was developed as an anti-corrosive moisture repellent agent, I believe it was the 40th try, hence the name, but Google can tell you all about it. But it works in the described process, but you dont have to believe me, buy a more expensive penetrating oil if that works better for you.

[napoleonb]

The brandname WD40 has many products, the most familiar is the blue container with red cap "normal WD40" everybody knows and uses.
But they do have a range of products including penetrating oil, they are with a yellow cap, I wouldnt consider the "normal WD40" as a penetrating oil.

I use the normal WD40 for a lot of different applications but I wouldnt consider the "normal WD40" as a penetrating oil and use other brands or the yellow cap stuff.

[CR750]

Maybe you should give it a try Nap.

Like stated, I am not saying it is a penetrating oil....and yes sometimes it's better to use real stuff for what it's worth.. you don't have to take my word for it... but even the regular red cap works. It takes 4th place in this kinda scientific 'test' bettering some real penetrating oils.

See 4:28
they even put it on the can themselves (no... that does not make it more true I know but still :-) )

Reason I often grab it cause it's easy to find, I always have plenty cans laying around.. and it's sold in almost all hardwarestores and cheap if you look for it ( so you can use plenty ).  I believe they even sell it nowadays in the 'Action' ( a very cheap store in the Netherlands - Nap is also Dutch ).

In the video you can clearly see that more expensive penetrating oils do not automatically means they do a better job. Thats the moral of the story I guess.

[valt]

And when that breaks off, then what method do you use ?
 
 I have 2 or 3 left in a F case I gave up on.. my buddy has an inductor , will try that next time i touch them..

That would really depend if it was flush I would try and weld a nut to it. Otherwise I thread a nut on and then weld it.

I also generally will heat them THEN spray penetrating fluid on it as the colder fluid helps shock them loose sometimes.

[Don R]

 An old pipefitter showed me how to use a cutting torch to cut a frozen pipe nipple out of a threaded fitting, if you do it just at the right temp and get off of it quickly it will cut the nipple threads and not the fittings threads. Then the wrench will collapse the nipple and it comes right out.
 Granted, it only is possible if the offending part has a hole down the middle, but one to remember for who knows when.