Author Topic: Broke an engine stud flush with the case...  (Read 4069 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline 754

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 29,058
Re: Broke an engine stud flush with the case...
« Reply #25 on: August 02, 2020, 05:45:59 PM »
And when that breaks off, then what method do you use ?
 
 I have 2 or 3 left in a F case I gave up on.. my buddy has an inductor , will try that next time i touch them..
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
dodogas99@gmail.com
Kelowna B.C.       Canada

My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way

Offline CR750

  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 161
Re: Broke an engine stud flush with the case...
« Reply #26 on: August 04, 2020, 03:37:01 AM »
Plenty of WD40/penetrating oil daily applied over an amount of time of say a week or so. Do this with heat ( it helps, from experience) After say day 4 weld a nut ( after thoroughly cleaning the stud end with degreaser or so. If you get a good weld, start with applying pressure with a regular battery drill, and use the slipclutch to get a modest vibration going, I usually do that back and forth, just to 'massage it' niet intending to break it free).. Then apply heat again plenty of WD40 to soak in and slowly build pressure with a manual wrench ( extend with a piece of tube if you need to ). If all else fails, get the real (air) hammer wrench, cross fingers and go for it..50/50 the nut or stud breaks loose. When it's the nut, reweld and try again, if not to be rewelded... drill the mf-er and coil it...also a 50/50 chance depending on how it broke and such.. or accept defeat.
Mostly I win somewhere along this process... Alu and steel joints are more forgiving ( due to heat expansion rates etc) imo then steel/steel. These are sometimes really 'welded' together from the corrosion. Speaking of neglected equipment that has stood outdoors for years on end and such.
« Last Edit: August 04, 2020, 06:41:56 AM by CR750 »
W r e n c h  ·  R i d e  ·  R e p e a t

Offline Medyo Bastos

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,582
  • Gusto mo titi ko?
    • project
Re: Broke an engine stud flush with the case...
« Reply #27 on: August 04, 2020, 08:07:27 AM »
Is wd40 penetrating oil?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Offline 754

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 29,058
Re: Broke an engine stud flush with the case...
« Reply #28 on: August 04, 2020, 08:14:11 AM »
Is wd40 penetrating oil?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 It's magical, if I told  you everything it could do....they would kill me..
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
dodogas99@gmail.com
Kelowna B.C.       Canada

My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way

Offline MRieck

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 10,561
  • Big ideas....
Owner of the "Million Dollar CB"

Offline CR750

  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 161
Re: Broke an engine stud flush with the case...
« Reply #30 on: August 05, 2020, 01:14:42 PM »
Is wd40 penetrating oil?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
strictly put it was developed as an anti-corrosive moisture repellent agent, I believe it was the 40th try, hence the name, but Google can tell you all about it. But it works in the described process, but you dont have to believe me, buy a more expensive penetrating oil if that works better for you. ::)
W r e n c h  ·  R i d e  ·  R e p e a t

Offline napoleonb

  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 193
Re: Broke an engine stud flush with the case...
« Reply #31 on: August 05, 2020, 02:05:53 PM »
The brandname WD40 has many products, the most familiar is the blue container with red cap "normal WD40" everybody knows and uses.
But they do have a range of products including penetrating oil, they are with a yellow cap, I wouldnt consider the "normal WD40" as a penetrating oil.

I use the normal WD40 for a lot of different applications but I wouldnt consider the "normal WD40" as a penetrating oil and use other brands or the yellow cap stuff.
« Last Edit: August 05, 2020, 02:08:21 PM by napoleonb »

Offline CR750

  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 161
Re: Broke an engine stud flush with the case...
« Reply #32 on: August 06, 2020, 03:08:26 AM »
Maybe you should give it a try Nap.


Like stated, I am not saying it is a penetrating oil....and yes sometimes it's better to use real stuff for what it's worth.. you don't have to take my word for it... but even the regular red cap works. It takes 4th place in this kinda scientific 'test' bettering some real penetrating oils.

See 4:28
they even put it on the can themselves (no... that does not make it more true I know but still :-) )

Reason I often grab it cause it's easy to find, I always have plenty cans laying around.. and it's sold in almost all hardwarestores and cheap if you look for it ( so you can use plenty ).  I believe they even sell it nowadays in the 'Action' ( a very cheap store in the Netherlands - Nap is also Dutch ).

In the video you can clearly see that more expensive penetrating oils do not automatically means they do a better job. Thats the moral of the story I guess.
« Last Edit: August 06, 2020, 03:20:14 AM by CR750 »
W r e n c h  ·  R i d e  ·  R e p e a t

Offline valt

  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 235
Re: Broke an engine stud flush with the case...
« Reply #33 on: August 07, 2020, 06:05:09 PM »
And when that breaks off, then what method do you use ?
 
 I have 2 or 3 left in a F case I gave up on.. my buddy has an inductor , will try that next time i touch them..

That would really depend if it was flush I would try and weld a nut to it. Otherwise I thread a nut on and then weld it.

I also generally will heat them THEN spray penetrating fluid on it as the colder fluid helps shock them loose sometimes.

Offline Don R

  • My Sandcast is a
  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 19,830
  • Saver of unloved motorcycles.
Re: Broke an engine stud flush with the case...
« Reply #34 on: August 07, 2020, 09:02:42 PM »
 An old pipefitter showed me how to use a cutting torch to cut a frozen pipe nipple out of a threaded fitting, if you do it just at the right temp and get off of it quickly it will cut the nipple threads and not the fittings threads. Then the wrench will collapse the nipple and it comes right out.
 Granted, it only is possible if the offending part has a hole down the middle, but one to remember for who knows when.
No matter how many times you paint over a shadow, it's still there.
 CEO at the no kill motorcycle shop.
 You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.