Topic: 76 CB550 - Starter Button (with Headlight kill) - Best Solution?

[Kenzo1979]

Hey everyone!

So I'm helping a buddy with his '76 550 K3 and it has the starter button switch that kills the headlight when the button is pressed and sends ignition power to the solenoid.  Needless to say, the original switch is toast (No repairing it - Disintegrated plastic housing) and needs some type of replacement/work-around.  Temporarily, I hardwired Bk/R (to HL fuse ---> HL power) to Bk (IGN power) in the RH control housing, so HL is constant on with key switch, and installed a small momentary pushbutton switch for the starter button (Bk to Y/R).  This works FOR NOW, but I'm afraid the switch I put in is too light-duty (it was originally a plunger tamper switch for a small security device) and will eventually melt.  I've read a lot of threads on the behavior of this switch and even one on how to rebuild the original switch (not gonna happen in my case) but was wondering if anyone out there has any information on the best original logic switch replacement (Digikey or wherever) or SPST pushbutton like I have in there now, only rated correctly, or other MOD.   Would like to keep the +12VDC starter feed so the clutch operated switch and neutral switch safety circuit remains (AKA: Don't want to use ground from starter button to solenoid like earlier years)  Thanks in advance.  Cheers!

[Bodi]

I connected the headlight power feed wire directly to black switched power - hasn't made any difference in starting or had other issues. Then put a small pushbutton switch that I found fits directly into the button hole with no mods. Looks like the image, but I don't know where to find them now: Radio Shack used to have small parts you could look at but they're either bankrupt or just sell phones and toys now.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Where's our 3D print guy that makes new housings?

[Kenzo1979]

@Jerry - haha.  I know, right?

@Bodi -  thanks, seems like we came to the same modification.  I just need to get the proper SPST switch like the one in your photo.  Although photo description says NC, probably want an NO.


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[ekpent]

I connected the headlight power feed wire directly to black switched power - hasn't made any difference in starting or had other issues. Then put a small pushbutton switch that I found fits directly into the button hole with no mods. Looks like the image, but I don't know where to find them now: Radio Shack used to have small parts you could look at but they're either bankrupt or just sell phones and toys now.

I bought a 4 pack of those exact switches off E-bay. They were still sealed in a Radio Shack bag and two had red buttons and two had black. I was recently playing with one and noticed that it fits right into two slots inside the handle control and could be mounted without even using the nut and washer. Might want to see if a seller is still unloading some more old stock.
Edit- I just checked and there are lots of them still available on E-bay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/SPST-Mini-Momentary-Pushbutton-Switch-From-Radio-Shack-Pkg-Of-4-/124206222447?hash=item1ceb448c6f

[Kenzo1979]

Cool.  I’m sure I can find a compatible part that will fit through Digikey, NTE,  or similar company, which were probably suppliers to RadioShack anyway.  Looks to be about a quarter inch hole. Any idea what kind of amperage rating should be sufficient for the switch?

The bike, by the way, seems to have a Mixture of K2 and K3 wiring according to the diagrams.  It has a Green/Red double female harness connection inside the bucket like the K2, but does not have an SMS unit, Just the blocking diode which only function seems to be to create AND/OR gate for the solenoid to receive ground from either the clutch operated switch or the neutral position switch.  Fun.


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[Kenzo1979]

Nevermind, just zoomed in on the packaging, if those specs work, that’s what I’ll get.  Thanks again.


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[Bodi]

Yes you need NO. I just searched for pushbutton and pulled a pic that looked close to what I used. Amperage is not much, my tiny switch has been ok for 20 or 30 years.

[Kenzo1979]

I ordered these two Items from Amazon.  One is an SPST and the other is an SPDT, which may perform exactly as the original, let’s just see how it fits.  I’ll keep you posted.


10 Pcs Black Cap SPST Momentary Mini Push Button Switch (Normally Open) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076P6154F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Sp9aFb2JAHFM5


uxcell AC 120V 5A/ AC 250V 2A SPDT Momentary Mini Push Button Switch 15Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018HLI3R0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_um9aFb1KNMDGN


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[scottly]

I'm using a similar Radio Shack starter button, and I think with an even lower amp rating, with no problems. The amp ratings for switches are generally for continuous duty, but the starter button only sees seconds at a time, at least if your bike is running properly.  

[Deltarider]

The heart of the problem is that silly headlamp-always-on wiring. That's why so many of you had/have to replace that button switch. Here, there's no problem.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Where's our 3D print guy that makes new housings?

Seriously! I can not remember who did them but they were out there.

[ekpent]

Where's our 3D print guy that makes new housings?

Seriously! I can not remember who did them but they were out there.

Here is the guy and link Jerry so you don't drive yourself madd  I was thinking of looking him up as I may need one of those housings when I get in and dig a little deeper on a bike project I have going.  Eric http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=163170.0

[Smudgemo]

I'm that guy. 
You can get the switch housing printed here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/RDM6ZT62Y/cb550-starter-switch-housing-replacement?li=shareProduct

I don't ride my 550 all that much these days (for a variety of reasons..) but the switch still works fine.

[Smudgemo]

One thing I think is important: try not cleaning the contacts with anything before you assemble the parts to see if it works as-is.  Maybe a pencil eraser if you must, but it probably won't need anything and it's easy to pull apart if needed.

[seanbarney41]

The heart of the problem is that silly headlamp-always-on wiring. That's why so many of you had/have to replace that button switch. Here, there's no problem.

good lord ...does anybody but Deltarider give two flying f's if the damn headlight is on or off?   I know I don't...

[bryanj]

I think the headlamp on imediately you turn the key is a stupid idea, wrecks batteries and is more complication. By all means have a law saying you must ride with lights on but leave it to the operator to turn them on.

[Deltarider]

US wiring causes more sparking in once at the IGN key switch and starter button due to more amps being switched, which accelerates wear. It's a US idea as brilliant as having 17 cup holders in a 7 seat van.
I don't know much about US legislation though. In Holland headlight on is not mandatory by law, but every biker has it switched on. When you have a light fail (tail light, brake light, blinker or what ever) and you're stopped by the police, you will not be fined, on condition you have a spare one with you. From newscasts I've learned it's different in the US. Once stopped, you'll have a gun pointed at you and you'll be yelled at: keep your hands at the wheel! KEEP YOUR @$#$& HANDS AT THE WHEEL!!!

[ekpent]

US wiring causes more sparking in once at the IGN key switch and starter button due to more amps being switched, which accelerates wear. It's a US idea as brilliant as having 17 cup holders in a 7 seat van.
I don't know much about US legislation though. In Holland headlight on is not mandatory by law, but every biker has it switched on. When you have a light fail (tail light, brake light, blinker or what ever) and you're stopped by the police, you will not be fined, on condition you have a spare one with you. From newscasts I've learned it's different in the US. Once stopped, you'll have a gun pointed at you and you'll be yelled at: keep your hands at the wheel! KEEP YOUR @$#$& HANDS AT THE WHEEL!!!

NOT TRUE    You need to watch some better news. As for burnt out bulbs we don't need to carry an extra to not get a ticket we just need to fix it.

[Kenzo1979]

BTW - if anyone is interested; Radio Shack apparently still exists online and they still sell that same exact product 2751547.  (Note: 1547 is N.O., 1548 is N.C., so don’t buy the wrong one.)


https://www.radioshack.com/products/250vac-2p-spst-off-on-mini-momentary-push-button-switches-1-5a-4-pack?variant=20332070149


I’m pretty sure the ones I got through Amazon are the same fit, so I’m sticking with that option right now.


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[Kenzo1979]

Update:

Both switches that I purchased fit.  The SPDT works like the original, switching the Headlight OFF as the starter button is activated.  But I kept the HL wired direct because the SPST switch looks and feels a lot better;  there is also no removable cap on the SPST, it’s all part of the switch.  I like that. 







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[Bodi]

Looks good!

And keep those hands on the wheel, always a good idea when police come to your car window.

And don't the the Sovereign or Moorish citizen bullsh!t. That just gets you dragged out, held down eating dirt, and then your smashed window car is towed away while you go to jail. The laws actually do apply to you, no matter what you believe.

[Deltarider]

Looks good!

And keep those hands on the wheel, always a good idea when police come to your car window.

And don't the the Sovereign or Moorish citizen bullsh!t. That just gets you dragged out, held down eating dirt, and then your smashed window car is towed away while you go to jail. The laws actually do apply to you, no matter what you believe.

There's this wonderful episode in Tom Wolfe's A Man in Full where a schlemiel that has just failed his typing test - his hands being too stiff and cold (he works in an ice house) - arrives just in time to witness his car being lifted and towed away. What then happens... great literature!

[Bankerdanny]

@Jerry - haha.  I know, right?

@Bodi -  thanks, seems like we came to the same modification.  I just need to get the proper SPST switch like the one in your photo.  Although photo description says NC, probably want an NO.


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He wasn't joking. There is a 3D printed replacement housing available. I've put one on 2 of my bikes.

[ekpent]

Update:

Both switches that I purchased fit.  The SPDT works like the original, switching the Headlight OFF as the starter button is activated.  But I kept the HL wired direct because the SPST switch looks and feels a lot better;  there is also no removable cap on the SPST, it’s all part of the switch.  I like that. 



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Thanks for the update. So there were 3 wires I believe to connect to that switch you used  that had 2 prongs am I correct ? Could you please give me a little more detail on that arrangement you did. I may be useing one of my Rado Shack switches on a mutt K6 if I can't fix the original.  Thank-you.  Eric