Topic: Installing steering bearings......HELP

[drlarryw]

Gentlemen.  I am installing new tapered roller bearings in steering head of my '75 750F.  The bottom race tapped in nicely, stopping against a detente inside.  The top race has tapped in but stopped with about 1/16 of an inch showing above what would be flush with the frame.  I don't want to put a beating on it if this is within normal limits for the installation.  Your experiences and advice very welcome.  THANKS.
Larry in Boston

[silver fox]

I have the same with my 400. Can't see why it should be a problem though, as long as it leaves you with enough thread to get your top yoke on etc I'm probably wrong though, so dont listen to me!!!!! Once its all rebuilt, you cant see it either.

[DME]

It´s ok, thats the way it fits.

[silver fox]

Thanks DME thats what i was hoping to hear

[Zane]

I think I had that little bit there too, when I put mine in last winter.

What I did do though, was put a big honkin' washer deal on both top and bottom.  I put threaded rod through and put a nut on each end.  Then I tightened it down until I was happy that it was as far as it was going to go.

You might not want to do this, but something else that I did while I did that job - I put a grease fitting there, so I could easily grease the bearings, then and down the line. 

If you do decide to put a nipple there, make sure you located it properly so it doesn't catch anywhere when you turn stop to stop.  And of course the reason for doing it at the same time as you have that neck piece open is so that you can clean out any little bits of metal from the tapping, that might fall in there.

[mrbreeze]

I have'nt seen this mod before. What will this accomplish? Are you going to pump the whole neck full of grease? I'm getting ready to install the tapered bearings also but have not seen or heard of this. Any replies to this mod???

[Zane]

One of the friends I've made since I started riding (in June of 2005) is a retired mechanic who finished his career as the head mechanic at Pratt and Whitney Aircraft Engines here in Ontario.  He rides a 1976 Goldwing Ltd; he bought it new in '76. 

He told me about the ball bearings in the head, and when I started to experience a bit of less than crisp high speed steering he suggested I change the old ball bearings to the tapered type.  He had done the job on his Goldwing way back when.  He also suggested the grease fitting.  I have a lot of faith in my friend's abilities, and couldn't see any harm in putting in the fitting. 

And yes, I did pump the steering stem full of grease.  I don't imagine it will need much more for a long time.  (When I disassembled the steering stem though, the original ball bearings had almost no lubricant left on them, and the races seemed to be wearing poorly as a result.  For a buck forty-nine (Canadian), and about 5 minutes work, I figured it was worth it to never have to think about that problem again.  That's what it accomplishes for me, anyway.

 

[Sam Green Racing]

The tapered roller kit I fitted in the CR came with a big spacer/washer to go under the lower bearing race.

Check for play every 100 miles after fitting, somtime they take a while to bed in.

I fitted a set in my VFR and had to adjust every month for about 6 months.

Sam.

[mrbreeze]

Well....I'm sold. I can't see it hurting anything to have the neck totally loaded with grease. Seems to be a way to keep the grease in the bearings where it belongs. I know HDs have a zerk to grease the neck. I wonder why Honda didn't put one in?? No big deal to install one so I'll give it a go.

[Zane]

Check for play every 100 miles after fitting, somtime they take a while to bed in.

Sam.

I forgot that - I had to tighten mine too, a few times over the first couple of months.

   .... and mrbreeze - I don't think you'll regret putting in the fitting.  All I can say though (because I almost made the mistake myself) is to be sure you locate it with everything in mind - cables, hoses and all that.  Mine just stops short of creaming the center wiring plug when I steer to the left.  Boy, that would have been a kicker - to make that mistake .....

I didn't know HD's have that fitting.  I'll have to look, next time I see one ....

[dpen]

Easiest way to tell if the (any) bearing race is seated completely is to tap it with a hammer & drift.

Just a tap on the drift & listen to the sound it makes & the way the drift behaves.

A fairly solid "thunk" and the drift staying on the race means it's not seated

If the drift makes a "metallic" sound &, more importantly, bounces off the race, it's seated.(hold the drift lightly with your fingers & you'll feel & see it bounce back off the job)

[mrbreeze]

I don't have problems seating races so maybe thats why everyone is having to readjust

[spitfire]

Hi Larry, this is what mine look like.

Cheers

Dennis

[drlarryw]

THANKS TO ALL OF YOU....for the helpful replies and pictures.  Great advice.  IT's good to know sometimes I've done something correctly.  I will check for need to tighten things up as I ride this spring.  The tapered bearings are a great fit and look like a move into the 21st century compared to the little pitted balls that fell out when I opened it up.
Larry

[.RJ]

Bringing this one back up - putting new head bearings in my frame last night, and my upper head bearing looks like the one in the picture - even with making a "press" out of threaded rod, washers and sockets the bearing wouldnt go in any further - is this normal?  I was thinking I could take it to a machine shop and have it pressed into the stop thats under the bearing if need be.

Bearings are new tapered type (all balls) and the frame was sandblasted, so nothing to stop the bearing from going in.

Edit: I initially put them in by freezing the bearings, heading up the head stock and tapping them in

Hi Larry, this is what mine look like.

[xtalon]

Bringing this one back up - putting new head bearings in my frame last night, and my upper head bearing looks like the one in the picture - even with making a "press" out of threaded rod, washers and sockets the bearing wouldnt go in any further - is this normal?  I was thinking I could take it to a machine shop and have it pressed into the stop thats under the bearing if need be.

Bearings are new tapered type (all balls) and the frame was sandblasted, so nothing to stop the bearing from going in.

Edit: I initially put them in by freezing the bearings, heading up the head stock and tapping them in

Hi Larry, this is what mine look like.

From what I have been told, this is normal.  Mine looked just like the one in the picture you attached.  I did this yesterday myself and my top race stuck out, but as far as I could tell, it was seated where the old race was, so that's as far is it will go.  I buttoned her up.

--xTalon

[.RJ]

Hmm... interesting...

Did the lower race stick out too?  I havent put that one in yet - I figured if its gotta go to a press then better to leave it out.

[spitfire]

See pic the lower race went in no problem.

Cheers

Den

[.RJ]

Great, thanks for the pic - I'll get the lower race in this evening. 

[.RJ]

Lower bearing installed... same method - frozen bearing, hot head stock.  Not bad

I definately need to get the inner bearing pressed down further onto the steering stem, its definately not on all the way.  I've got a friendly machine shop down the road, they'll probably do it for a few bucks.  They've always helped me out on small/odd jobs.

[.RJ]

Does this look correct?  The allballs kit came with two big flat washers - one for each side.  I installed the lower side under the bearing with the seal, but the upper doesnt seem like it fits correctly under the steering stem nut, so I left it out.  Bearings are greased and the stem turns smoothly, so I think its right.

[Jinxracing]

Does this look correct?  The allballs kit came with two big flat washers - one for each side.  I installed the lower side under the bearing with the seal, but the upper doesnt seem like it fits correctly under the steering stem nut, so I left it out.  Bearings are greased and the stem turns smoothly, so I think its right.

Looks like you left the stock dust seal on the bottom and put the snap-in seal that's included with the All Balls kit on the top. I liked the "snap in" effect of the All Balls kit seal better than the stock one, but as long as you've got a seal down there I imagine you'll be okay.

[.RJ]

Looks like you left the stock dust seal on the bottom

Nope, that was gone

[Jinxracing]

What's that on the stem under the lower bearing? Kinda hard to tell from the photo.

[.RJ]

What's that on the stem under the lower bearing?

The washer supplied with the allballs kit - I'd take another pic, but I already installed everything.  I looked at it again, and I think the lower triple would hit the headstock without that washer in place.  Should be good to go.