Topic: Thanks to this Group

[Vintageguy]

Thanks to this group, I have begun doing tune-up and repair work on my CB750 F that I never thought I would able to accomplish. I have been riding 52 years. Recently installed a new solenoid, bled my barkes, and adjusted my cam chain thanks to the encouragement and straightforward tech spoken in this Forum. This Forum is very supportive and non-judgemental, unlike many of the competitive "Superdome" online groups one frequently encounters. A valve adjustment is next! BTW, what do you believe to be correct valave adjustment values? I have seen differing numbers. A little gratitude never hurts. Thank you, again.

[bryanj]

2 thou inlet 3thou exhaust DO NOT rotate the engine with a big spanner on the nut at the points end unless you have all the spark plugs removed.
Forget all the x and o ideas in some manuals, using the T mark for 1-4 or 2-3 find the cylinder where the valves are "on the rock" i.e. exhaust nearly closed and inlet just opening then adjust the other cylinder of the pair

[MauiK3]

+++1 DO NOT rotate using the big nut at the points without the plugs out. Even then, be very gentle and keep the wrench square to the nut, it's a fragile shaft. Bending is slightly will cause your idle to never be very good.
I found mine to be bent, straightened it with a dial indicator, not hard to do but irritating.
If you start with the motor cold, you could bump the motor with the kick starter before you start wrenching on the nut, it will break it loose.

[pjlogue]

What is said above is good advice and I would add to never rotate the engine backwards using the nut on the points side.  Only clockwise with the plugs out. 

I have set my tappet gap to .003 for intake and .004 for exhaust.  This gives a little more time for the valve to transfer heat to the head when closed. 

-P.

[Vintageguy]

When I set adjusted my cam chain I did rotate the crank at the points with plugs in, but certainly won't again. Good to know. Don't recall anything in my Clymer's about that!