Topic: My CB550 always dies after a 10-15 min ride? Huh?

[CarbasaurusRex]

Nope, no foam


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[ekpent]

 The vent is where that wire loop is. Good idea to keep more gas in the tank then you claim and running on reserve pulls junk off the bottom of the tank. If your petcock does not flow when on the on position that would not be a good sign for good flow unless you don't have enough in the tank. Are you sure you have the lever pointed in the correct direction. As mentioned get rid of that loop in the line. The 500/550 carbs I have done have quite a few o-rings inside. The emulsion tubes are a pain to get out but I have seen seem dirty ones. There are also o-rings between the head and metal manifolds that can get old and leak. Checking for air leaks is easy.  Good luck and hope you get her a little more trustworthy.

[Deltarider]

The fuelline in the pic is not supposed to run like that. The horror! Make it like Honda delivered it. Any inline fuel filters that may hinder flow?

[CarbasaurusRex]

The fuelline in the pic is not supposed to run like that. The horror! Make it like Honda delivered it. Any inline fuel filters that may hinder flow?

Haha yes I know it isn’t. It was the only way to really get no kinks. I have one but didn’t install. I’m replacing petcock for Honda genuine to get it going the right direction.


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[Deltarider]

Also I am not sure what model CB550F you have. You can identify your bike by comparing the engine- and framenumbers of yours with those listed in the first few pages of the CB550F parts lists. All three are here: http://www.honda4fun.com/materiale-documentazione-tecnica/parts-list/parts-list-cb550 (scroll down to 4-1 Super Sport). Honda did not specify models in years. That's advertisement bla. If you refer to your bike in Honda speak, there can be no misunderstanding. I seem to remember petcocks and tubes differed between various CB550F models. Success!

[CarbasaurusRex]

Also I am not sure what model CB550F you have. You can identify your bike by comparing the engine- and framenumbers of yours with those listed in the first few pages of the CB550F parts lists. All three are here: http://www.honda4fun.com/materiale-documentazione-tecnica/parts-list/parts-list-cb550 (scroll down to 4-1 Super Sport). Honda did not specify models in years. That's advertisement bla. If you refer to your bike in Honda speak, there can be no misunderstanding. I seem to remember petcocks and tubes differed between various CB550F models. Success!

I’ll have to check when I get the chance. Thank you much!


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[Don R]

 My friend owned a garage, a lady he knew came in and told him her Honda car died at the same stop sign every morning. He told her, don't go that way.
  Sorry, I know it's not helpful but might lighten the mood.

[CarbasaurusRex]

UPDATE:

Alright guys. So far I’ve removed the tank which is now getting a vinegar clean cause there’s slight rust inside. Removed and cleaned the carbs AGAIN (jets, emulsion tubes, everything). Hooked everything back up, except this time on an auxiliary fuel source. I wanted to see if the reason for the bike dying is because of the small vent hole being plugged in the tank and or small rust bits clogging the carbs. Got the right fuel line on there and the looped line is now just a straight shot from the hanging auxiliary tank. I turn it on, 12 minutes in, IT DIES AGAIN. WTF? After a few seconds I can start it right back up but then it dies way quicker eacc time(10-30 seconds). I’m so frustrated with this thing. I don’t understand what it could be? I know it’s not the tank or vent cap. I know it’s not because of the looped fuel line. What could it be? It seems like when it gets hot, it wants to die. Anybody please help!!!


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[CarbasaurusRex]

Also just to add, I mentioned earlier that after revving the throttle it would somewhat hold idle before returning to normal. I found out that if I rev and then hold back on to the return position on the throttle, it goes back to normal. So it’s just either incorrect cable routing or a sticky throttle/cable is my guess. But that’s not my main concern right now.


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[Knottyandgrain]

I feel your frustration as I am experiencing the same exact issue with my 1976 cb550. I've replaced the coils, spark plugs, adjusted/ cleaned points and timing, starter solenoid, voltage regulator and still nothing. Today I realised the new battery the PO installed was incredibly small, have you checked your battery? it's your charging system charging it? sorry I wish I can help more just wanted you to know what I've already done with no success.

[RAFster122s]

Are you running the Dyna ignition or points. If the Dyna it could be faulty and is shutting down due to heat...

[dazemc]

I am also having this issue but I am about 80% convinced that it is because I don't have genuine keihin jets. I have been reading through a lot of threads and there has been quite a few members that have resolved this issue by reverting back to OEM jets. The other 20% is the intake manifold rubber boots and o-rings. I read a thread about someone ruling out air leaks and then later realizing that as the motor heats up, so does the rubber. So check for leaks on a hot motor.

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[Scott S]

The vent is where that wire loop is.

Are you sure you have the lever pointed in the correct direction. As mentioned get rid of that loop in the line.

 The wire loop or paper clip looking thing in his pic is for the gas cap latch. The hole near it is NOT the vent, but an overflow hole/tube if any gas gets spilled when filling the tank. The gas cap vent is in the cap.


 The fuel lines can be routed through the bracket that holds all the carbs together. It's tough to do and nearly impossible when the carbs are on the bike. Route them correctly and get rid of the loop and extra fuel line.

 To the O.P.: You posted a pic showing your petcock. In that pic, the choke lever is DOWN, in the OFF position. That is the position it needs to be in when riding. You're not operating the choke backwards, are you?

[2wheels]

Does it have spark when it dies?
Carry a spare spark plug with you , pull the cap off of 1 or 4 and put your spare spark plug in there and crank.  Saves you the time of taking a plug out.

[Anthub]

I had a similar problem with my K3. It would be ticking over quite nicely then start to splutter. If I caught the throttle and gave it a blip, all would be fine, but if I didn’t, it would die and then would not start again until I’d left it for about 15 minutes.
I then started getting an issue whereby the condenser for cylinders 1 and 4 would consistently fail (I went through 5 in less than 100 miles).
I see you’ve already replaced the coils etc but new coils and electronic ignition (Dynatek) solved the issue for me straight away.


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[CarbasaurusRex]

I had a similar problem with my K3. It would be ticking over quite nicely then start to splutter. If I caught the throttle and gave it a blip, all would be fine, but if I didn’t, it would die and then would not start again until I’d left it for about 15 minutes.
I then started getting an issue whereby the condenser for cylinders 1 and 4 would consistently fail (I went through 5 in less than 100 miles).
I see you’ve already replaced the coils etc but new coils and electronic ignition (Dynatek) solved the issue for me straight away.


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That’s a very similar issue, but for me the bike can start right after it dies. It can stay idling for a few seconds(10-30sec)  until it dies again.


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[CarbasaurusRex]

The vent is where that wire loop is.

Are you sure you have the lever pointed in the correct direction. As mentioned get rid of that loop in the line.

 The wire loop or paper clip looking thing in his pic is for the gas cap latch. The hole near it is NOT the vent, but an overflow hole/tube if any gas gets spilled when filling the tank. The gas cap vent is in the cap.


 The fuel lines can be routed through the bracket that holds all the carbs together. It's tough to do and nearly impossible when the carbs are on the bike. Route them correctly and get rid of the loop and extra fuel line.

 To the O.P.: You posted a pic showing your petcock. In that pic, the choke lever is DOWN, in the OFF position. That is the position it needs to be in when riding. You're not operating the choke backwards, are you?

Like I said right now the loop is eliminated and it’s running off an auxiliary tank which has fuel just coming straight down into the carbs. The problem isn’t the petcock nor the looped line because even with the fuel tank off, it still dies.


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[CarbasaurusRex]

Does it have spark when it dies?
Carry a spare spark plug with you , pull the cap off of 1 or 4 and put your spare spark plug in there and crank.  Saves you the time of taking a plug out.

The fact that it starts right after it dies, tells me that it does.


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[CarbasaurusRex]

I am also having this issue but I am about 80% convinced that it is because I don't have genuine keihin jets. I have been reading through a lot of threads and there has been quite a few members that have resolved this issue by reverting back to OEM jets. The other 20% is the intake manifold rubber boots and o-rings. I read a thread about someone ruling out air leaks and then later realizing that as the motor heats up, so does the rubber. So check for leaks on a hot motor.

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The jets I replaced when rebuilding were from JetsRus. I purchased the oem jets. However my clip is in the middle position which would case it to run richer but I don’t see how that could cause it to die. And every time I check the jets, they are clean as a whistle?


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[CarbasaurusRex]

Are you running the Dyna ignition or points. If the Dyna it could be faulty and is shutting down due to heat...

I have brand new 4into1 coils that they provide and just replaced the condenser and points. Gapped them and everything.


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[Spanner 1]

Dyna's failing due to heat is old fake news David. Dyna's failing due to overvoltage from the 50 yr old regulator is common. Dyna's will shut down if not supplied with a steady 14v.

[dazemc]

However my clip is in the middle position which would case it to run richer but I don’t see how that could cause it to die.


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Did you change the air/fuel screws to match? Someone correct me if I'm wrong but the needle being an the 4th position was why the manual differs in the states by saying 2 turns out. If it's at the middle position then should it not be 1 turn out as described in other versions? I don't think that would cause it to die though....

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