Author Topic: Float valve operation  (Read 1776 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

eldar

  • Guest
Float valve operation
« on: June 10, 2005, 09:14:28 AM »
Ok I know HOW to set floats but when you want to have LESS gas go into the blowls, do you decrease the distance OR increase?

It seems to me that if you increase the distance, the float hangs lower and thus closes the float at a lower level making for less fuel in the bowl.

Is this correct thinking? i want to try something since I may be suffering from the too high level like Bob is.

Offline bryanj

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 14,094
  • CB500 Number 1000036
Re: Float valve operation
« Reply #1 on: June 10, 2005, 09:15:41 AM »
You got it
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!

Offline Bob Wessner

  • "Carbs Suck!"
  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 10,079
Re: Float valve operation
« Reply #2 on: June 10, 2005, 10:16:06 AM »
eldar,

In all honesty, I'm still not sure what my deal was on this. They were originally set by me (and measured mult. times) at 26mm using the surface where the gasket sits as the base point. I had to tweak one because it dribbled some fuel so I suspected it was borderline high.

Then changed things to 30mm and it ran no better and even introduced a dry bowl situation on #4 carb. Yesterday I returned them to 26mm but this time I used the carb edge as the base point, figured that's 1 maybe 2 mm differnce. Other than that I changed out the Keyster float valves and seats back to the originals. Since the Keyster valves were slightly longer my move to using the carb edge might make it a wash. I have no idea at all why it's better now, but it is. Since my efforts recently have really fouled the plugs, just picked-up a new set of non-resistor plugs. The previous set had resistors, but at the time, the dealer said that was all they had. I'm curious to see of there is any difference. Theoretically there should be, the spark should be a bit better with the non-resistor plugs.
We'll all be someone else's PO some day.

eldar

  • Guest
Re: Float valve operation
« Reply #3 on: June 10, 2005, 11:48:19 AM »
Yeah there will be a diff with the non resistor plugs. Your caps are the resistors. I am going to rip the bowls off my carbs(and maybe throw the whole set against the wall) and make sure all my seats are clean, then remeasure the height.

Offline Einyodeler

  • Expert
  • ****
  • Posts: 1,029
  • Midnight bugs taste best!!!
Re: Float valve operation
« Reply #4 on: June 10, 2005, 12:30:46 PM »
Hey Bob
I think I`m going to take your  I HATE CARBS  sign, blow it up and hang it in my barn by the workbench ;D

I had one set of carbs on a bike I bought that worked perfectly when I got them: #1 the needle was set at the 2nd from top notch #2 & #3 were 3rd from the top and #4 was at the bottom notch.Ran it that way for 2 years until I sold it.
The guy that bought it off of me started to mess around with them and it never would run right again for him.
1972 CB500 - 1973 CB500 - 1974 CB550K - 1975 CB550F - 1975 CB750F - 1976 CJ360 - 1983 CR480 - 1970 BSA A65T Thunderbolt



Download Motorcycle Shop Manuals here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=17788.0

Offline 750deepsouth

  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 210
Re: Float valve operation
« Reply #5 on: June 10, 2005, 04:34:12 PM »
I'll throw my opinion in for what it's worth - 750 K2, float heights are set at 26mm. To cure low speed running problems, fouling  plugs, I set my air screws close to two full turns out.

The larger the distance you set the float height, the sooner the lower the fuel level will be in the carb bowls.