Topic: rebuilding honda cb550f, electrical problem

[Deltarider]

Delta, he has already tested red to black and answered and been told get new switch

Thanks! I just did not know what to make of those 3V readings. Also I asked him to do a favor: just curious what the reading in Ohms would look like.

[bryanj]

I am taking it as the ignition switch is "loosing" 9v so everything after switch is 3v.

Should have told the op off as he went off on a tangent and tested things not asked for!!!! But as he came back with most answers asked for thought i would be kind

[martijn]

That prooves your ignition switch is bad and loosing a lot of volts between red and black. You will get nowhere till you replace it and test again

My new ignition arrived. It took a while so during the wait I did an attempt of rebuilding my old ignition switch; I hooked the switch and battery up and turned the ignition to 'on' and voila: with the cleaned/rebuilded switch my dash-lights came one, blinkers and head lights. As soon as i pushed the starter button do everything died again..

When the new switch arrived i hooked it up.
Nothing worked and so i executed the same measurement test as before. See results below:

With ignition OFF

Battery: 13v
solenoid (wire from positive side of battery): 13V
solenoid (wire from cable from engine): 2V
MAIN Fuse in: 13V
MAIN Fuse out: 13V
TAIL fuse in: 2V
TAIL fuse out: 2V
HEAD fuse in: 2V
HEAD fuse out: 2V
Red at ignition switch: 13v

With ignition ON but Kill Switch and lights OFF

MAIN Fuse in: 13V
MAIN Fuse out: 13V
TAIL fuse in: 13V
TAIL fuse out: 13V
HEAD fuse in: 13V
HEAD fuse out: 13V
black at ignition switch: 13V
Black in headlamp shell: 13V
Black at regulator: 13V


PS @Deltarider
I did the omh measurement on the old ignition switch after i took it out. Probe to probe, the DMM measures 0.00. Ignition one and probe to red-contact and probe to black-contact it read 0.00 and sometimes drop to OL.

[bryanj]

All your tests with new switch give perfect readings, please replace with new all the glass fuses, I did one recently where there was good voltage until load was applied then voltage disappeared. The fuse element was not connected inside the cap where you could not see it so it looked perfect and every time you moved it it reconnected enough to test OK on resistance and voltage

Long distance electrics is THE most difficult to diagnose, putit in front of me and its easy

[martijn]

All your tests with new switch give perfect readings, please replace with new all the glass fuses, I did one recently where there was good voltage until load was applied then voltage disappeared. The fuse element was not connected inside the cap where you could not see it so it looked perfect and every time you moved it it reconnected enough to test OK on resistance and voltage

Long distance electrics is THE most difficult to diagnose, putit in front of me and its easy

Thanks again! I've replaced the fuses: same readings but still nothing unfortunately.
If you have any more hunges / suggestions I will happily try them out.
The lights did work with the old rebuilded ignition switch. Then when I pushed the starter button everything died. Is it possible that Something is connected falsly or Something is corroded?

Thanks in advance

[robvangulik]

Does the bike start with cables from a car battery?

[bryanj]

If the starter current stopped everything working like that i would expect a bad connection at battery connections or main ground

[martijn]

I measured 13V at one of my ground cables. I guess this means there is some bad wiring going on right, and i should check the wiring?

[maxheadflow]

Get a new voltmeter.

[martijn]

Problem solved! The ground wire front the battery was not connecting properly because the plate it is connected to is powdercoated. I've stripped the coat and voila: everything started working!

Thanks for al the help, especially with the ignition bit. Wouldnt have sorted that out myself

[Deltarider]

NEG path is often overlooked. Since the frame has been powdercoated, you may have a close look at the GND connection (thick green wire) close to the tank front positioning rubbers.

[martijn]

NEG path is often overlooked. Since the frame has been powdercoated, you may have a close look at the GND connection (thick green wire) close to the tank front positioning rubbers.

That one I nicely sanded down to the bare metal before installing the green thick wire. Completely overlooked the other one. Silly mistake but one heck of a lesson lets say

[bryanj]

You aint the first and wont be the last, years back had a customer complain that the new rear engine hanger wasnt painted all over!!
You did clean off both sides now didnt you?

[martijn]

You aint the first and wont be the last, years back had a customer complain that the new rear engine hanger wasnt painted all over!!
You did clean off both sides now didnt you?

Not yet. Couldnt get quite to it (really small workspace). Tonight in taking the bike out of the shed and pull the bracket off tot do a proper job.

[Spanner 1]

Good job Martijn !