Topic: Round top carbs - How to remove slides?

[jakec]

Is it possible to remove the slides without removing the carbs from the rack?

[PeWe]

I tried on my CB750 K6 carbs. Had to remove carbs, loosen them from rack..

[754]

If you think pulling carbs off rack is a hassle. . Wait till you try  removing the rod from the forks without destroying its function and being able to reuse it..

[jakec]

You mean the forks that lift the slides?

I didn't want to de-rack the carbs because they don't leak right now, so I don't want to disturb the fuel tubes.

[754]

What are you trying to do ?

[jakec]

I'm going to ultrasonic clean the carbs and I wanted to replace the dust seals at the top of the slides. My cleaner can fit all 4 carbs together.

[ekpent]

 If I was going to do a good job of cleaning the carbs even if I had a big sonic cleaner I would still take them apart like pulling the slides etc..Be a good time to replace those 45+ year old o-rings in the fuel tubes anyways  along with new orings in the float bowl drain screws too if you can get them out. Just did that recently on a pair of carbs and that rubber looked pretty sad.

[jakec]

I've read on here one time, if those T joints and fuel tubes between the carbs don't leak.. don't mess with them. But yeah, if it's the only way to get the slides out then I guess I have no choice.

[ekpent]

 Well you will be messing with them by just putting fuel line on or off, soaking them or other things. I have noticed that on the two orings on each end of the fuel tee's one can be worse then the other.Possibly the one that stays the driest . The other main reason why I would want to get them apart is to be able to blow all the water and or cleaners out of them well after they have had their soak. The worst part of removing and splitting the rack is messing with the little cotter pins on the choke linkage. I only remove two and the middle linkage bar and try not to turn the ones on carb 1 and 4 so it goes back just the way it came off quickly and easily without having to readjust. Love doing the roundtops because they are so easy.

[jakec]

Yes, I did notice that when I was contemplating removing them from the rack, it is WAY less complicated than with PD carbs.

[grcamna2]

subscribed

[PeWe]

+1, Replace fuel T o-rings when carbs are off. Drain screw o-rings can be done if leaking. Float bowls are easy to remove.

I removed drain screws on 2 extra bowls I used for clear tube check. Bowl screw head in a vice, turned bowl.

Bowl rubber gasket is hard as bakelite, right?

[jakec]

Bowl gaskets were hard, but drain screws came off easy using my giant T shaped screwdriver.

[ekpent]

 I will say I have never had to replace a stock bowl gasket on any roundtop carbs I have worked on and that's a lot. I never pick them out either I just leave them unmolested in place even during a carb dunk. The only one I ever replaced was some cheap rubber one that was all swelled up and bad.

[jakec]

FOr your viewing pleasure. Sorry for bad lighting. Has anyone polished the chrome slides before?

[jakec]

For future reference the 7.8x1.9 O rings ( can be got here:

https://www.theoringstore.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1864

[ekpent]

I just clean the slides with lacquer thinner, never felt the need to polish them.

[itsahonda4]

you shouldnt polish the slides, just clean them.....

[PeWe]

I had to file mine lower inner edges after too hard bench sync in the 80's.

Stock spring is very hard, not good letting it snap down when drill is in.

[754]

Dont let the slides clack down on the rod.. no reason
 I polish  the rod or bar , then roll it as I adjust.. . I use a brass rod, no worry about scratching. ..

[jakec]

Should I replace the intake boots? They were pretty hard. I didn't use any heat but I used two cam straps to eject the carbs.

[Remcod]

Between carbs and airfilter? Recommendable.

[jakec]

I'm talking about the ones to the engine. The airbox ones are soft.

[ekpent]

 The stock ones(manifolds) if in good shape are probably better quality then repops and a heat gun and a little grease really makes a difference. You don't need to do this but I ditch the old stock clamps usually if not doing 100% resto. Between the old rubber shrinking slightly and the original low quality clamps stretching a little and bottoming out on their tabs to me makes for a bad combo. I don't like being able to spin them with my hand when the little clamp is tightened all the way. I reuse and like the airbox clamps.

[seanbarney41]

Eric, could you post a link to the clamps you use that work good?

[754]

These might work , won't look stock , but won't be so wide they don't work properly.

[seanbarney41]

I would prefer to find some that dont have the serations facing inside.

[jakec]

My 400 came with this type on the airbox side, I've been using them and they are ok. They don't damage the boots.

[ekpent]

Eric, could you post a link to the clamps you use that work good?

I was at one time buying these at Menard's. A bag of 10 was around 8 bucks then. They are 2 3/4" and stainless steel. What I like about them is once you trim the ends to fit nice it leaves very little of the serration left, it is mostly a nice smooth solid band and with some grease on them tighten down nice without biting in. Of course the last time I went to get some there the ones they had were way more serrated    I think I have found this same brand on the internet if the product matches the picture.  I have also seen some links from members showing some nice ones that are not as wide as the  1 3/16" that these are.