Topic: CB550 Turn signal not blinking when fully seated left or right.

[kenjataimu]

I've tried scouring threads for an answer, and while there are a litany of similiar issues--seems many of them were abandoned. Like the title states, I'm having an issue with the turn signals not blinking correctly when fully "locked" at the end. The front and rear blinkers work perfectly fine just before the "seated" end position. The fact that the blinkers work up until that end position lead me to believe that the relay and wiring is fine, would an improper ground cause the light to stay on? Any and all help would be supremely appreciated.

*Front and rear turn signals are LEDs and I am using an LED friendly flasher relay. Bike is a 74' CB550.

[evinrude7]

I've tried scouring threads for an answer, and while there are a litany of similiar issues--seems many of them were abandoned. Like the title states, I'm having an issue with the turn signals not blinking correctly when fully "locked" at the end. The front and rear blinkers work perfectly fine just before the "seated" end position. The fact that the blinkers work up until that end position lead me to believe that the relay and wiring is fine, would an improper ground cause the light to stay on? Any and all help would be supremely appreciated.

*Front and rear turn signals are LEDs and I am using an LED friendly flasher relay. Bike is a 74' CB550.

my rears on a 750 didn't blink because of bad ground.  don't know much about the 550. 

[kenjataimu]

Did you just go into the headlight and clean the green connections?

I know that the OEM turn signals were ground to the housing (and thereby the frame), but since the signals I replaced them with had ground leads--I just connected them to the green wires. That shouldn't effect anything no?

[evinrude7]

Did you just go into the headlight and clean the green connections?

I know that the OEM turn signals were ground to the housing (and thereby the frame), but since the signals I replaced them with had ground leads--I just connected them to the green wires. That shouldn't effect anything no?

my aftermarket signals came with a hot and a ground as far as i can tell by looking at them.  plugged the grounds to green.  mine are not LED.  don't know how much that matters.  your fronts are working with the LED flasher.   did you have to make your own bullet connections?   

edit: whoops.  i read you wrong.  both front and back get stuck?  could the bulb type be the culprit?

[Ace Blackwell]

I'm not sure how LEDs are wired up but to me it sounds like the switch assembly is the problem.  If I understand correctly you start at switch center.  During the travel to LH or RH there is a point the lights start flashing correctly.  Once you are at the end of the travel (seated ?) you lose the flash. It sounds like you are making a connection half way through the travel and losing it again.  Is it repeatable?  If you move the switch slowly does the flash happen in the same spot each time?  Will it continue to flash correctly if you hold the switch in that spot?

Is the flasher relay LED friendly?  Again not an expert but I could swear I've seen other guys on here talk about swapping relay to a LED compatible one. 

Neither of these are answers but maybe a place to start.  Or somethings to be dismissed as a potential contributor.

Good Luck. 

Looks like I could be lost in left field.  Re-reading your original entry I see I'm not sure about what is seated.  The switch travel or or the lights themselves?  If it's the latter, then in the words of Emily Litella (Gilda Radner), Nevermind.

[kenjataimu]

You understood correctly. I apologize if I worded it confusingly, I didn't know the correct terms. But yes, it is definitely repeatable. During travel it works exactly as it should--and I could probably be perfectly fine just leaving the switch halfway in either direction when using signals. Flasher unit, at least according to Amazon reviews (as well as the fact that it does blink), should be fine.

I do think your right that its likely the switch assembly, because the front and back turn signals both behave the same. I took apart the assembly and cleaned all the contacts aggressively with contact cleaner...but still no luck. This is driving me nuts.

I'm not sure how LEDs are wired up but to me it sounds like the switch assembly is the problem.  If I understand correctly you start at switch center.  During the travel to LH or RH there is a point the lights start flashing correctly.  Once you are at the end of the travel (seated ?) you lose the flash. It sounds like you are making a connection half way through the travel and losing it again.  Is it repeatable?  If you move the switch slowly does the flash happen in the same spot each time?  Will it continue to flash correctly if you hold the switch in that spot?

Is the flasher relay LED friendly?  Again not an expert but I could swear I've seen other guys on here talk about swapping relay to a LED compatible one. 

Neither of these are answers but maybe a place to start.  Or somethings to be dismissed as a potential contributor.

Good Luck. 

Looks like I could be lost in left field.  Re-reading your original entry I see I'm not sure about what is seated.  The switch travel or or the lights themselves?  If it's the latter, then in the words of Emily Litella (Gilda Radner), Nevermind.

[Ace Blackwell]

Something I just remembered about mine. With switch in middle both front turn lights are on but on low setting. When I turn the switch on left or right, the turn signal for that side goes out altogether for a second. Then the turn signal buzzer starts beeping.  At the same time the signal will start flashing brightly.  My lights are normal lights so it might not be the same situation as yours but do you think the buzzer might be interfering in some way breaking the signal to the light? Without a diagram in front of me I dont even know if that is possible.   Just something I noticed tonight on mine.  Keep us updated.

[kenjataimu]

I think the previous owner eliminated the buzzer as I can't find one, and my turn signals don't make any noise. But you bring up an interesting point...fella might have deleted it in a haphazard manner.

[evinrude7]

I think the previous owner eliminated the buzzer as I can't find one, and my turn signals don't make any noise. But you bring up an interesting point...fella might have deleted it in a haphazard manner.

i'm recalling now that i disconnected my turn signal buzzer after cleaning the L/R turn switch contacts because it didn't help either.  once the turn signal buzzer was gone the signals worked perfectly.  until i found a faulty ground on the right rear.  it was the bullet connection i had made.  i clamped down too hard and cut through the end of the wire.  i still think it's a ground issue. 

[kenjataimu]

after cleaning the assembly thoroughly and making sure the wires were all good in the housing (i've swapped the bars and shaved a notch into the original hand control to route the wiring underneath the bar instead of through)...still not working so i suspect your right. but if there was an off ground--wouldnt that wreak havoc on all the electronics and not just the turn signals?

I think the previous owner eliminated the buzzer as I can't find one, and my turn signals don't make any noise. But you bring up an interesting point...fella might have deleted it in a haphazard manner.

i'm recalling now that i disconnected my turn signal buzzer after cleaning the L/R turn switch contacts because it didn't help either.  once the turn signal buzzer was gone the signals worked perfectly.  until i found a faulty ground on the right rear.  it was the bullet connection i had made.  i clamped down too hard and cut through the end of the wire.  i still think it's a ground issue.

[evinrude7]

Not that I know of or experienced

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[Ace Blackwell]

I’m still stuck on the switch assembly.  If you can leave the switch partially on and it works fine for extended period of time without quitting there is something interrupting the connection when fully on.    I’m not sure if stock switch assembly works with LED but assuming they will, do you have a second bike you can borrow switch from?  Unlike me, most guys on here have several bikes.   Probably wouldn’t have to install on handle bar, just wire it in to test.   There is also the option to just get a new switch.  Stock ran me $45 for aftermarket.  Around $120 for OEM if I remember correctly. 

I have recently replace both LH and RH switch assemblies, fuse box, and ignition switch cap.   Most of them “looked” fine but obviously something wasn’t right.   Fuse box stopped over heating and blowing main fuse after I replaced.  I was able to start bike with push button after replacing the RH switch assembly.  I hadn’t done that in 25-30 years.  High beam and Low beam change was a lot smoother.  I’m just saying there may be intermittent connection issues that just looking at can’t catch, unless you are an electrical wiz like some on here.  Replacing components until the issue goes away might be the only option at this point.  Or you might want to reach out to Bodi on here.  He seems very electronically knowledgeable.