Check where the yellow wire is attached to the points, as this is a common area for mistakes; often, the terminal is either shorting against the points base, or assembled with the insulators positioned incorrectly.
Yep. This was exactly the issue. And because I didn't get my face right in there, I missed that one corner of the condenser connector was touching the plate the first 4 times I looked at it. I also then discovered that #2 wire had melted and was 'repaired' by prior owner, but was not working so now awaiting parts to repair. So now 1,3&4 all fire just fine.
1 and this has been said many times DO NOT USE THE BIG NUT BY POINTS TO TURN THE ENGINE unless all plugs are removed, you will damage the advancer unit.
2 yes its bad to run with a cylinder out as the unburnt fuel will wash the oil from the bote
3 you can get in line connectors for ht lead lead , these are not a GOOD repair but should keep you going till new coil arrives(hope you ordered the correct 5 ohm coils as 3 is not good)
1 - Interesting about not using the big nut. Initially I tried using the kick start as that is what the manual said to do, but admittedly was difficult. So I opted for the big nut as that is what I had seen others do on youtube. I did notice points where it was more difficult to turn the motor (assume compression). I may then check the advancing component to make sure I didn't do any damage when I do the timing before riding again.
2 - Good call. I will just avoid riding then and perhaps get out the old-school pedal bike for my errands.
3 - I purchased the OEM replica coil kit along w/ caps from 4into1, says 4.6 ohms. I also got a 'tune up kit' that comes w/ new new points. I paid for 3-day delivery so I will just wait vs using a joiner.
I live in Chicago, so short season, and with being my first (street) bike, excited to ride. I plan is to keep working my way through items while riding; focusing on immediate safety and reliability (via late night repairs) and plan to do longer-term performance and reliability things this winter in some sort of DIY garage.
Given that:
- I will likely just replace the 1 (or maybe both) coils, given they look to be original as I read that even if working can become intermittent or weak (plus already ordered and only $70 w/ caps).
- I will also likely then do the timing (checking the advance plate) but hold off on the points that come w/ the tune-up kit until winter given they are working (or swap to electronic ignition after I do more reading and research).
- Valve clearance, as noted before
- Also on list is oil change; prior owner said he did it at start of spring, but will do again just to be sure and in case the is gas in the oil. Will have to find a way to do in my garage setup or ride to a friends house.
- Lastly is to find a center-stand so that working on items in highrise garage is easier (and possible to do like removing wheels / suspension).
- Otherwise, tires newer and good. Already did front brakes and cam chain. Front suspension feels soft, so may get into that once I have a center stand. Chain could use replacing but will do that in winter along w/ sprockets. Lights and everything work fine and I mostly ride during day so not sure how concerned I am about LEDs.
- Lastly, I did pull all the plugs and 1,2,3 were all black indicating rich mixture. 4 was totally fine but that could have been replaced recently by the prior owner. I went ahead and replaced them and will wait to see after the oil change if it is still running rich before getting into carbs. If I have been riding on 3 cly then I assume gas in the oil could be creating a rich environment.
Did I miss anything? Thanks All!