It sounds like you are ham-handing it. Doesn't matter what modern carbs you may have on something else; these older carbs don't take kindly to ham-handing repairs. Just tighten the float bowl screws until they're snug, then maybe 1/8-1/4 turn. Don't need to get nuts. Same with the all the brass.
You can still get new screws for the float bowls, direct from Honda. They are slightly longer than the originals but will fit, this should give you enough "bite" to get them on properly.
If you get new Mikuni carbs, then you will be putting pods on if you don't make a proper adapter to the airbox, which these bikes don't enjoy unless you have plans to race it or ride it in very specific conditions. You'll end up becoming a guinea pig where you will be buying lots of carefully selected jets and doing lots of plug chops. Maybe you have the patience for this, maybe it is fun for you. But I think for most people it's not.
Anyways, call your local Honda dealer or go to Partzilla and order 93892-04016-08, this is the screw for the float bowls. If you're talking about a botched drain screw 4into1.com has new ones.
Don't give up. You're so close. When I first got my bike I chased the carbs pissing for two weeks. Now I've been riding it all the time for the past year. Some additional advice though, if you have not replaced the o-rings on the fuel connecting tubes between the carbs do it now. When I fixed the float height with the OEM needles then it started pissing out of the fuel connecting tubes. If you fix one leak it's going to find the next weak point. So just do all the o-rings now. Those o-rings for the connecting tubes aren't super special, you should be able to find something from one of those "fuel injector" assorted o-ring kits they sell at the autozone. You can replace these tubes without having to entirely separate the carbs (I highly recommend you don't separate them as it can be difficult to get them back together again if you're not well organized and didn't document the process). I believe when I did it I was able to loosen part of the linkage enough to be able to do both tubes. Just be mindful of any springs and their orientation. Go slow. Don't be mad. If you get mad, take a break.