Author Topic: Suggestion for Gold O or X ring chain (Read 2237 times)

jakec · « **on:** September 28, 2020, 11:37:34 AM »

I need a 530 chain for cb750, I would like to get DID but they seem to be over $100. Anyone have a good source for a DID one at a good price or another brand you can trust? Thanks

PeWe · « **Reply #1 on:** September 28, 2020, 12:37:38 PM »

X-ring will live long. Is there any O-ring out there?
X-ring use o-rings with x profile.

It depends where you live. In Europe DID 530VX or even stronger DID 530ZVM-X are sold within OK shipping range.
They are sold as kits too, 17/18 and 48 sprockets.
Stock CB750 runs best on 17:48 as I have used most of the time.

US has other famous good brands like EK and RK.

I see now that I have missed sale on DID 530VX for around $60US. Not gold chain.
My K6 has golden DC chain. It is golden a short time after clean.
No need to pay extra for that.

jakec · « **Reply #2 on:** September 28, 2020, 12:56:35 PM »

I assumed since the x ring chains dont need to be oiled that they would stay relatively clean by comparison to a normal chain?

newday777 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 28, 2020, 01:11:16 PM »

Quote from: jakec on September 28, 2020, 12:56:35 PM

I assumed since the x ring chains dont need to be oiled that they would stay relatively clean by comparison to a normal chain?

Not good to ASSUME......

They still need cleaning and lube....

Read this on maintaining an oring and x ring chain
https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/news-and-views/advice/bike-maintenance/is-chain-lube-necessary

Erny · « **Reply #4 on:** September 28, 2020, 02:21:27 PM »

If I'm situation to buy new chain kit for 750 I would go for 525 chain, they are strong enough and lighter

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #5 on:** September 28, 2020, 02:42:08 PM »

Jake, be aware that if your engine is indeed F2, or K7/8 it may still be using 630 chain

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 28, 2020, 02:44:43 PM »

Also realize that on a hardtail, your chain will last a longggg time.

jakec · « **Reply #7 on:** September 28, 2020, 03:07:10 PM »

It is a plunger frame.. so less movement but still some. I never thought of that though.

Is the chain pitch on the sprocket? I haven't taken the old ones off yet.

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #8 on:** September 28, 2020, 04:03:47 PM »

Jake..... you’ll know if it’s a 630. They appear twice the size of anything els you have!

jakec · « **Reply #9 on:** September 28, 2020, 04:13:31 PM »

Oh, ok, no it is a normal chain. Well I plan on riding this bike and I won't be cleaning it all the time either, so if you guys think getting a gold chain is pointless I guess I will just get a normal one. I thought it would compliment the bike's colors well.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #10 on:** September 28, 2020, 04:40:44 PM »

My o-ring chains stay clean pretty long. I disagree with advice to frequently lube them. If you clean them correctly, frequent cleaning can't hurt. The thing about o-ring chains is the lube starts out inside where it can do the most good. It will leak out on it's own providing the little lube needed for the outside. Everytime you lube it, you washing out the factory lube, rapidly creating a condition where you have to lube it frequently...and of course, because of the o-rings, it is more difficult to do that effectively. My advice...clean them when they look like they need it...just a firm scrub with a wd40 damp rag, and don't lube until you have sticky links after cleaning. I mostly use Parts Unlimited (cheap but most likely manufactured by another "expensive" manufacturer) chain and always get 10-20,000 miles out of 'em.
I once bought a 78' 750f3 that still had the original 630 o-ring chain. It had 18,000 miles on it but had been abused with burn outs and long periods of bad storage. After I got the bike running, I just cleaned up that rusty old chain, and decided I would just run it until it wore out and then I would do a 530 conversion. That chain lasted until 27,000 miles, and performed well too. So that means a 630 o-ring chain that was totally abused and left to rust for most of it's life, lasted 27,000 miles!...now tell me how worthwhile that 530 conversion is...

BenelliSEI · « **Reply #11 on:** September 28, 2020, 04:55:44 PM »

Sean..... so true! When I restored my K8, the chain and sprockets (630, non “0” ring) where OK. I cleaned the chain really well, on the top tray of my cleaning tank. Hung it up to dry. After that, soaked it in a tray of used motor oil, wiggling it around once in a while. Hung it up, over the tray and let it drip for a few days. Wiped it down and eventually put it on the restored bike. Clean and lube it occasionally. That was over 10 years ago, I’ve only put another 8-10K on it (too many Honda’s), but it’s still perfectly serviceable! Seems to be a darn good combo.

PeWe · « **Reply #12 on:** September 29, 2020, 12:32:04 AM »

Riding in rain will make the chain dry rather quick.

Erny · « **Reply #13 on:** September 29, 2020, 01:30:03 AM »

I have 630 O ring chain on my K7 750 (DID genuine, 88 links endless). Had to replace stock one after I bought bike as O rings on few links were broken.

I decided to change only chain as sprockets were like new (bike had just 8k miles from new). Now I regret, 630 O ring chain is very, very stiff, lubrication did not help and is very heavy. This combination is surely eating some power from engine..

Next time I'll convert to smaller one, ideally 525 modern O ring one, but looking at how chain looks now - it is like new! (15k miles now), it will happen in several years from now or never.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #14 on:** September 29, 2020, 04:35:00 AM »

There is no “lubing” an o-ring or x-ring chain. Just by spraying lube onto the chain you’re never going to get the lube past the o-rings and into the rollers. What’s in there from factory is all it gets. Which is more than enough for the life of the chain. You only need to clean it with a rag dampened with WD40 or something to get road grime off to keep it looking nice, if it’s a gold chain (electroplated to prevent surface rust). If it’s a normal o-ring chain then the “lube” they recommend is just to prevent surface rust but any rust preventative will work for that. I like a light coat with Boeshield T9 because it carries a wax in it and dries completely after a few minutes. If you hose it with a degreaser like WD40 then that might get past the o-rings and dissolve some grease, depending how forceful the spray is and how close you are with the nozzle. Any heavy chain lube will only attract grit which will slightly accelerate wear of the sprockets, probably not noticeable, and will just create a mess.

For a normal non o-ring chain, yeah you need to lube it.

Gold chains should stay nice for a while. Just don’t park it in a river.

jakec · « **Reply #15 on:** September 29, 2020, 08:45:26 AM »

Ok, thanks for the replies. Well it seems like I need a 530 DID chain with master link. If anyone has a good suggestion, the lowest price I can find online is $100. If that's the case.. ugh

https://www.solomotoparts.com/DID-520-Pro-Street-X-Ring-VX2-Premium-Series-Gold-Chain/?variant=415857

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #16 on:** September 29, 2020, 11:38:48 AM »

I don’t know how many links you need but I just got a 102 link x-ring with rivet master link for my 650. $50

Of course you’ll need a rivet tool for this one but I’m sure you can find a clip type for around the same price.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/372681521112

PeWe · « **Reply #17 on:** September 30, 2020, 12:29:32 AM »

About chains and maintenance...use Google and search. There are tons of info out there.
Like this
https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-clean-and-lube-a-motorcycle-chain

But I do not agree about the lubrication as antirust only. I have seen what a dry chain does with the sprockets, they worn very quick, bad sprockets kill chain.

Just go on holiday and ride about 800-1200km, rain in rather high speed, hear the mechanic scraping from chain and see the metal dust . Chain slack goes quicker too. Gear down some steps and WOT not good with much slack.
That's how I broke a DID 530 HDS o-ring chain outside Kassel, Germany 1988, no broken case. Chains are better since then.

I usually spray my chains about every 500km +/- 25%. If I had ridden bike in pouring rain, chain will be dry from grease very quick.
With a working center stand it is so easy to give some lubrication. I talked to a guy that had a small spray bottle of lube in tool compartment and gave chain a spray every time he refilled fuel. Yes, his chain and sprockets had looong life.

I have used Motorex Chain lube
https://www.motorex.com/en-us/moto-line/chain-care/chainlube-road-strong/

Last year Maxima Chain Wax
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/maxima-chain-wax

Maxima does not look to penetrate as good as Motorex that look like chain original lube and make rear wheel more dirty than Maxima.
Maxima had got very good result in reviews but how dirty or not the rear wheel becomes might have been a too large factor.

My chain (strongest DC 530 chain for multi hp bikes) has stretched more last time. It has 25.000km so 5000 more should be OK. Sprockets are OK too.

I'll go and spray some know, need a coffee brake with lube.

A good way to kill a chain very quick is to use very sticky lube.
Chain look lubricated but is not, only outside. The rollers against sprockets bone dry. A cheap non o-ring chain died that way within 2000km in the beginning of the 80's. Same bike, my K6, not modified engine then but ridden much harder!!

Rollers cracked and disappeared. So many that the links almost came together sideways. Could have gone bad on the roads in my usual 100mph pace.

PeWe · « **Reply #18 on:** September 30, 2020, 12:59:13 AM »

If do not have center stand or do not dare to use it, convinced that bike will fall the other way.
Jack stand and a jack lift the rear. This is how I remove wheels.

Another thing I heard from my Dyno visits. Freshly lubed chain can give around +2 whp.

Chain got Motorex this time. Chain slack vary too much when rotate wheel so new chain and sprockets at next tire that wear quick.

This bike has extra hp and torque, it runs best on 17 front even if 18 is no match for it. Better feeling and how gears comes in.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #19 on:** September 30, 2020, 04:44:21 AM »

Quote from: PeWe on September 30, 2020, 12:29:32 AM

About chains and maintenance...use Google and search. There are tons of info out there.
Like this
https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-clean-and-lube-a-motorcycle-chain

But I do not agree about the lubrication as antirust only. I have seen what a dry chain does with the sprockets, they worn very quick, bad sprockets kill chain.

This is quoted from that exact link you just gave, “With sealed chains, on the other hand, the grease inside the O-rings does the job of lubricating and the chain lubricant you apply is just for protecting the outside of the chain from rust, so you can use it more sparingly.”

A roller chain is a roller chain because the rollers roll. That spinning is where the lube is critical. Not between the rollers and the sprocket teeth where it’s going to fill with grit. I grant you that if you could submerge the rear sprocket in an oil bath then that will help in that location but in the real world spraying some lube that gets flung off and attracts grit is not doing any good. You never hear of people saying to make sure your sprocket is lubed well. This is the same reason you can use an o-ring chain with an aluminum rear sprocket and get very long life.

I understand your experience with chain and sprocket wear you saw, but I offer that it wasn’t caused by what you think.

Maltboy · « **Reply #20 on:** September 30, 2020, 03:48:56 PM »

CycleXchange sells a nice chain for the money. It's not a gold chain, but 9100 tensile EK brand, and they claim they don't stretch. $89 plus shipping.

http://www.cyclexchange.net/Chain%20Sprocket%20Page.htm

These guys build badass Hondas all day long, so they know what works. Their gaskets are awesome too from what I've read in this forum. I'm pissed I didn't buy them for my project.

PeWe · « **Reply #21 on:** September 30, 2020, 10:42:19 PM »

More entertainment

I still prefer to lube, I'm convinced that it will give sprockets a longer life based on what I have done and seen during the years. Bicycles, mopeds and motorcycles

I'm sure WD40 will penetrate inside the o/x-rings and let the factory grease out ....

I almost forgot.... chain cleaner spray is a really good product.... for carbs and other very dirty greasy aluminium. It cleaned my stock carbs much better than carb clean. It is made to not harm o-rings so rubber seals in carbs should not suffer.
I have heard that racing bicyclists use WD40 on chains.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #22 on:** October 01, 2020, 04:18:58 AM »

Quote from: PeWe on September 30, 2020, 10:42:19 PM

More entertainment
I still prefer to lube, I'm convinced that it will give sprockets a longer life based on what I have done and seen during the years. Bicycles, mopeds and motorcycles
I'm sure WD40 will penetrate inside the o/x-rings and let the factory grease out ....

I almost forgot.... chain cleaner spray is a really good product.... for carbs and other very dirty greasy aluminium. It cleaned my stock carbs much better than carb clean. It is made to not harm o-rings so rubber seals in carbs should not suffer.
I have heard that racing bicyclists use WD40 on chains.

I think we’ve said enough about this to let others make a decision

I have bigger things to worry about, I’m out of beer!

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #23 on:** October 01, 2020, 08:41:33 AM »

Pewe, you dont spray the wd40 directly on the chain. Just spray it on a rag and scrub the chain with a rag.

jakec · « **Reply #24 on:** October 01, 2020, 01:23:55 PM »

Ok so I have the following setup.

16 front
48 rear
105 links (not counting master link).

I can get a 106 or 108 link (depending on front sprocket size I get, 18 seems more common) at this link for just over $100.

https://www.motoxoutlet.com/did-530vx-chain-gold.aspx

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #25 on:** October 01, 2020, 03:02:19 PM »

With a quick search I can’t find a better price.

jakec · « **Reply #26 on:** October 02, 2020, 10:28:15 AM »

I used a chain calculator and my current setup calculate the following:

current: 16t front 48t rear 106 links.

calculator gives chainstay length of 18.3"

inputs: 17t front 43t rear chainstay length 18.3"

calculator gives 104 links.

17t is stock for my model. I chose the 43t rear (stock being 48t) for better speed at mid range rpm. I think this will help offset the smaller rim size (16") which is known to roll slower than the stock rims.

News:

Author Topic: Suggestion for Gold O or X ring chain (Read 2237 times)