3/ I can't find any instruction for it, but I'm assuming that the 6 x steel plates go in with the slightly radiused beveled edge out (towards you as you stick them in) ? I noticed that just one of these somewhere in the middle was the other way around when dissembling.
Pretty sure that is mentioned in Marks book, just put my clutch back together and saw the tip there. Can't be sure which way they go now but was glad for the advice at the time.
Regarding the slant cut friction plates, I did not see a reason mentioned as to why they should be avoided in the book but looking at the outer friction plate in my bike which was a slant cut one I noticed where the friction material ends up in a feathered edge (the pointy bits) lots of the friction material had come loose and gone missing in the oil.
I can't see it in my Hondaman book, but will check again. I'm guessing as there is a friction plate front and back (on my K2 version) as long as they are all in the same way its prob not mission critical, but I can sort of see why if one or two are the other way around in might just create a bit more drag.
Out of interest I have just been reading about oil spec. Oil spec for wet clutchs. It would seem (new to me anyway) that MA MA1 and MA2 is the number that refers to the correct type of oil for a wet clutch sythetic or otherwise. Most bike oils now are MA2. The older MA MA1 spec (which was adequate in the day) created slightly les friction grip between plates than the later MA2 spec which offers more. I assume that ths extra grip is only a factor when the plates are tight together ? and I'm not suggesting that an MA or MA1 spec oil (if you could find it ) would reduce drag when the clutch was disengaged. What I read suggests (on more modern bikes at least) the MA2 spec creates a clutch with a slightly snappier feel to letting the clutch out compared to the previous older spec oils. Interesting reading anyway.
Regarding the angled cut friction plates, so many people have fitted them, I reckon it would be well documented if a problem. I don't think your bits of cork will be an issue. You could always have a look at the oil mesh filter under the sump as its relatively easy to do so I think for some peace of mind if worried. Or cut the old oil filter up next service and have a look inside between the paper elements.
