Topic: Rattlecan on engine - K0 renovation thread

[Flyin900]

So here's the proof.

A GL1200 water cooled in silver done about 10 years ago and 35,000 Klms later in silver and a CB1000 done 8 years ago and black which is a harder colour to maintain and paint overall less forgiving. The carbs are off the CB1000 for some winter rebuilding, so a better look at the engine area. Both are still very good with a little more wear on the black finish.

[Medyo Bastos]

I’ve gotten good results with duplicolor paint on engine cases too, just not the hi-temp type.

I wasn’t able to get duplicolor hi-temp paint to cure properly so, I never tried it again...


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[jebon]

Thanks for all your posts
I'll give it a try. Oil pan cured up well, but prepping the cases will be a pita

[gpzkat]

I recently did my Honda and not too long ago, my GS1100E.  The Honda had a lot of crust and oil, degreased and then used a brass thread cleaning brush on the crusty parts.  Then more degreasing, etc.  Lots of work but it sticks as long as prep's good.

I've been doing this for many years. Sure there are more expensive and better ways but a touch up is a few bucks and some masking tape.  I don't ride in a very harsh climate so that's a factor in my choosing this way, it seems to work and looks fine. 

Being lazy I dab the bolt heads with some vaseline using a cotton swab and wipe off with the paint after.  I like VHT but think it's the same as DupliColor now.  The nozzles always seemed to spray better for me than those adjustable fan spray types.

Here's the GS

[jebon]

This will take a month, not days

[markreimer]

LOL yes it will. Paint prep is not fast. Even if I had access to a vapour blasting machine or something, it would still take a solid chunk of time to prep everything, between hand scrubbing, masking it all, prepping the paint booth, primer + paint, curing... but so worth it when done right.

[Medyo Bastos]

I recently did my Honda and not too long ago, my GS1100E.  The Honda had a lot of crust and oil, degreased and then used a brass thread cleaning brush on the crusty parts.  Then more degreasing, etc.  Lots of work but it sticks as long as prep's good.

I've been doing this for many years. Sure there are more expensive and better ways but a touch up is a few bucks and some masking tape.  I don't ride in a very harsh climate so that's a factor in my choosing this way, it seems to work and looks fine. 

Being lazy I dab the bolt heads with some vaseline using a cotton swab and wipe off with the paint after.  I like VHT but think it's the same as DupliColor now.  The nozzles always seemed to spray better for me than those adjustable fan spray types.

Here's the GS

You got a pipe for that dope zuki?


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[gpzkat]

Yeah it's all together, just had a quick ride on it.

You got a pipe for that dope zuki?

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[Stev-o]

This will take a month, not days

Start off with Gunk Foamy Engine Cleaner...

[Kelly E]

Yeah it's all together, just had a quick ride on it.

You got a pipe for that dope zuki?

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Nice Willys wagon, looks pretty early from the tailights.

[Medyo Bastos]

This will take a month, not days

Start off with Gunk Foamy Engine Cleaner...

The cheaper Walmart brand works great too! Just douse it, and douse it again, and then douse it some more!


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[jebon]

Bottom case is done. What do you think of the color? Too silver'ish?

I've been looking at some that had a more blue'ish tint that I think looks awesome. (like this red K1) I don't want to strip it again so if I decide to change it, it'll be a new coat on top of this one. Can't decide...

[lash]

This will take a month, not days

I feel your pain!

[gpzkat]

Color looks great to me, what paint is it again? 

I'll be back to scrubbing and painting engines soon again, picked up two free '79 GS850G's and a nice '79 GS1000E. 

[jebon]

Color looks great to me, what paint is it again? 

I'll be back to scrubbing and painting engines soon again, picked up two free '79 GS850G's and a nice '79 GS1000E.

Thanks. It's Motip Aluminium Engine paint 04093.
I wonder what is on the red K1. Any ideas? I saw duplicolor has one that looks a little darker.

[Kevnz]

PO has taken to the cases of my 500 with a COARSE wire wheel and seriously gouged the surfaces. I've had a bit of a go with a sanding fitting on my dremel, but it's a bit coarse and the shape doesn't get into the nooks and crannies too well. Any suggestions, or am I stuck with tedious hand sanding? Or maybe fill the blemishes with primer and sand back, as done in panel surface finishing? Would prefer not to split the motor at this stage, if possible.
Thanks

[PeWe]

Color looks great to me, what paint is it again? 

I'll be back to scrubbing and painting engines soon again, picked up two free '79 GS850G's and a nice '79 GS1000E.

Thanks. It's Motip Aluminium Engine paint 04093.
I wonder what is on the red K1. Any ideas? I saw duplicolor has one that looks a little darker.

Both my CB750 got Motip alu engine paint. Look as stock.
The compartment for starter motor had OK stock paint, sprayed everything else with Motip Alu and could not see much difference or any. Cylinder and head got it too.

[jebon]

Color looks great to me, what paint is it again? 

I'll be back to scrubbing and painting engines soon again, picked up two free '79 GS850G's and a nice '79 GS1000E.

Thanks. It's Motip Aluminium Engine paint 04093.
I wonder what is on the red K1. Any ideas? I saw duplicolor has one that looks a little darker.

Both my CB750 got Motip alu engine paint. Look as stock.
The compartment for starter motor had OK stock paint, sprayed everything else with Motip Alu and could not see much difference or any. Cylinder and head got it too.

Thanks, I think I'll stick with this then

[jebon]

Engine cases are painted.
I could probably imagine a better result but I'm very satisfied. Looks good I think

[PeWe]

The Motip alu look much better after curing, like 24 hours.
Give it a few days or a week before assembly.

If you scratch, easy to repair. It withstand fuel splash from carbs very well.

[jebon]

The Motip alu look much better after curing, like 24 hours.
Give it a few days or a week before assembly.

If you scratch, easy to repair. It withstand fuel splash from carbs very well.

I won't get to assembling anytime soon. Still need some parts. I want to replace bearings and still need some o-rings for the bottom.

Also I really want to do Hondaman's lapping the gears trick before I button up but not sure exactly how to proceed.
I read his description of course but I'm not sure how much should be assembled on the shafts etc. to do it.

[corky]

I am just getting ready to paint a set of cases.....I was recommended to use the following primer before I painted them.  I also plan on using Duplicolor Engine 1615 after I apply the primer.  The primer requires you to spray on the color within 24 hours of applying the primer.

Thanks,
Daniel

[BenelliSEI]

I am just getting ready to paint a set of cases.....I was recommended to use the following primer before I painted them.  I also plan on using Duplicolor Engine 1615 after I apply the primer.  The primer requires you to spray on the color within 24 hours of applying the primer.

Thanks,
Daniel

Daniel..... I use the duplicolor filler primer, under the 1615. When mixing brands, suggest you spray a test piece first. Occasionally, different brands/types will react weirdly when mixed! Good luck.

[gpzkat]

Great result, it is a lot of work to clean up a grimy engine and get it looking pristine, and it's a great feeling of accomplishment to look at it and show it off.  I didn't do the bottom of mine, I figured not a lot of views from down under.  Just cleaned it up.   I am a big fan of the rattlecan method, cheap and easy to touch up and I have found the VHT I've used to be very fuel resistant after curing.  My floats were not quite right and I had some leakage that sat overnight, it cleaned right up. 

In the past when touching up pipes and such, I just got dollar store tin foil and cordoned off the other bits, and nobody was the wiser, came out great.

[jebon]

I'm trying to clean the inside but overall it has this misscoloring. In some places it can be scrubbed off with a hard spunge but I hope to be able to have it thoroughly cleaned. In the picture I have it soaked in degreaser, but it's not really doing much. I don't want any of this being circulated over time in the engine.
Any suggestions?