Little things I learned along the way.....
If you're taking the bike entirely down, take the frame off the engine with the engine on its side. Conversely, as noted above, do the reverse when the frame and engine are ready. Much easier.
If you're just taking the engine out, strip the engine as far as you can with it in the frame and the bike tied down. Remove the chain tensioner. Unfasten all the nuts and remove the upper bolts and plates so that the engine is now resting only on the lower aft rod mount and the two forward bolts. Plug the intake and exhaust ports. Protect the fins with cardboard strapped or taped around them all. Strap an 8' 2x6 to the back of the head/cylinders with the strap going around the 2x6 and around the front of the head/cylinders and back to the 2x6. Screw in a cross mount of a short piece of 2x6 to each end of the 2x6. Make sure this is sturdy. Run a strap around the 2x6 going underneath the engine and up the other side back to the 2x6. Tight! The 2x6 assembly should be mounted to the engine asymmetrically - the long end out the left side of the bike. This will give the guy on the left some room to get the engine through and out of the frame. The "T" handles on the 2x6 will give you some way to maneuver the engine out and it is a good idea to have your landing zone right next to the bike and perhaps a few inches below the lower rail on the frame. This was a 3-guy job for me but 2 guys could do it.
Carb clamps - the ones w/o the flanges go on the rubber boots connecting the airbox to carb. Put small washers on the screws to keep them from distorting the thin metal of the clamps.
Remove the lower part of the airbox when installing it in the bike up to the carbs.
The brand new stock Honda air filter's foam seals are too hard. They will leave you a gap in the housing once installed. Replace one side of these seals with a soft stick-on strip seal from the hardware store.
Rear brake - when reassembling - make sure the dots on the ends of the fore and aft splined shafts absolutely line up properly with the slots on the levers. Also, the brake shoes may look good but they probably ain't. It doesn't take much wear for them to be undersize and throw off all the lever relationships. This gave me fits - once I changed the shoes and lined up the dots, the world was a happy place! Lube the pivot points with Staburag heavy grease that won't fly off or go anywhere but where you put it.
https://cnc-specialty-store.com/grease-lubrication/kluber-isolflex-nbu-15-50-gram-tube?gclid=Cj0KCQiAuJb_BRDJARIsAKkycUnKG9JtLFLmpJMVrytz89esXGuc34UD7FmmHsrlVuegeRW9HyVujwsaAkhXEALw_wcBChange all the rubber pieces you can get to depending upon the scope of your job.
To remove the rear wheel, take the master link off the chain and slide the wheel and axle out the back end of the swing arm. Safety wire your master link after going back on.
Straighten out the aluminum cable ties in a smooth jaw vice.
If you're doing a resto and will be replating hardware, use Evaporust in an ultrasonic cleaner to take off rust and corrosion. Really works.
Run an additional ground from the seat lock assembly to the back of the engine - I used the bolt holding down the carb drain tube bracket.
Read my restoration notes PDF above on the first page for other tips.