Topic: Dyna S ignition install not working.

[jrmull]

I have this ebay Dyna S ignition being installed.  Model DS1-1 for a 1972 Honda CB350F. 

Well, install went smoothly until I tried timing it.  No voltage coming from the Dyna S unit on 1-4 or 2-3 modules.  Anyone have problem with these units?

First thought was lack of power down the red wires from my brake light power.  Nope, I have 12 volts using the red wire quick connector.  So I know the brake black wire is switched on with the key and the tap connector is ok.  I can't test the red wire into the sealed modules though.  Stuck there.

Second, I checked the blue (1-4 cyl) connector right out of the Dyna S module before it enters the wire harness to coil.  No power when I get the magnet sweeping by the module.  I used a 12v test light and also a multimeter, but I get nothing down the blue line regardless of cam position.  Tried the yellow wire (2-3) also...nothing.

I tested the cam rotor part on the advancer.  The spot on the side is magnetic and holds a washer to the side, so there is a magnet in there.

My next thought is too much clearance between the pickup modules and the rotor.  Maybe it is too far away to get the magnetic switch to trigger.  I don't think you can move the module closer to the rotor...only left / right a few degrees.

What is the suggestion?  Send it back, move the modules closer to rotor?  Don't see how, but I haven't tried to move the module inward.  The warranty is very explicit with people altering things.      Thanks for idea and experiences.

[jrmull]

picture of the Dyna S ignition

[DaveBarbier]

The plate is the ground so if you have a painted case it may not be grounding properly. But I think you’re going about the test wrong, I would bet the unit is working ok. I don’t believe you would be getting power on 1/4 or 2/3 signal wires even on a good unit.

How are you trying to time it?

After confirming you have a good ground try this, pull a plug cap and stick in a spare spark plug. Key on and ignition switch to RUN (assuming you have stock switches). Hold the spark plug to the engine case and spin the motor over by the kick starter or using a wrench slowly. The plug should spark when the rotor magnet sweeps past the appropriate pickup.

All this also assumes you have a good charged battery, functioning coils, etc.

[jrmull]

Thanks Dave for the reply.  Likely I am doing this wrong so I will double back.

The Dynatek timing instructions are a bit confusing. 

1) static process, connect 12 volt test light from the junction of the blue. DO NOT disconnect the wires, use a wrench to advance the engine.  I had the blue wire disconnected to the harness thinking voltage would come out of there.  I think that is actually ground being interrupted on the typical points method. Power is coming down from coil's positive wire get get the light on.  Thus I need the wires connected through the coil.  I think I see my problem there. 

2) turn ignition on, while holding the rotor fully advanced to the right.  Slowly advance the engine until the test light turns on.  The right hand "Advance mark" should align with the static engine marking.  This is odd for me.  I typically static set the light-on to the F fire marking, but ok.  Sure is hard to spring hold the rotor while turning the motor but ok.  I guess odd is not using the F marking and forcing the advance marking for the light test.  But ok, do what they say.

3) If marks do not align (the double advance markings), move the plate.  Rotate engine BACKWARDS until light goes out and repeat.   Yeah, I don't like rotating the engine backwards to much.  Been always told not to go in reverse.  I go around again forward.  I didn't get a light either way anyway. 

Back your statement, power not coming out of that wire....I think that is the issue. I will also tighten down the plate better to make sure I have a good ground there.

Very helpful.  Back to the shop to keep at it. I will leave the wires connected and probe at the connection.  Worst case, hook it all up and use the spark plug to see if any spark regardless of timing is coming out.  Go form there. 

Thanks

[DaveBarbier]

I would abandon the Dyna instructions on timing as far as a test light goes. Go for putting the spark plug in the plug cap against the motor like I said above. A spark is a single quick instance and you can time it better. I find that a test light glows and doesn’t come instantly on and off telling you exactly when the spark will occur. A spark is a good visual and also you can hear it spark so you can look right at the plate.

So first, put a plug in the plug cap and rest it on the engine case somewhere and key on and kill switch to RUN and just rotate the motor 1 1/2 full turns. It should spark sometime during that rotation. If not, you have a problem.

The instructions for timing are a little confusing because they’re trying to be so informative. What I do is rotate the engine to the 1/4 advance marks. Then just rotate the magnetic rotor with your fingers clockwise. If it sparks before you reach the end of the advance travel rotate the plate clockwise. If it doesn’t spark at all, rotate the plate counter clockwise until it just perfectly sparks RIGHT when the rotor reaches the end of it’s advance travel. Same with 2/3 but instead you’re moving the 2/3 pickup and not the plate.

[scottly]

I typically static set the light-on to the F fire marking, but ok.

That is the correct method, then verify the timing dynamically with a timing light. If the advance is working correctly, it will be at the F mark at idle, and at the double full advance marks at 2400-2500 RPM.
Dave is correct; don't bother trying to static time a Dyna with a test light. Eyeball it and try to start the bike.
Oh, and don't try to adjust the timing by rotating the plate with the engine running. Snug the plate screws, check the timing, then adjust the plate and check again. Repeat as necessary. The same is true for adjusting the timing with points.    

[jrmull]

Dave, you solved my problem. I have the test light working on 1-4 and 2-3 at the advanced || marking with the rotor twisted forward per the Dyna instructions.  Thanks to Scotty too on confirming the F marking vs advanced markings.

With points, I had the test light clip on the blue wire on the plate and the pointy probe on the engine to find the F spot.  Well on the Dyna S, there isn't a place to clip on.  You got me to reverse thinking. I put the clip on the plate (after making sure it was grounded well, tight, etc.) and the pointy probe on the blue connecter at the coil.  But still the wires connected.  Did the same for 2-3 using the yellow connecter at the coil.

I have a new timing light for Christmas, so looking forward to adjusting it while running.  A tomorrow thing.  Neighbors would squawk if I make motor noise at midnight.  Thanks again.

[DaveBarbier]

Nice, happy it’s working for you!

To be extra clear, the way I time a Dyna S is statically for advance. Engine not running. It’s faster and when I verify it with a strobe it requires no tweaking. But it doesn’t matter how you get it done. A method could involve bagpipes and 50 mustard packets, if it gets you the end result then go nuts.