Topic: Early Sandcast Found......

[BenelliSEI]

Please advise which kind of gaskets you plan to use?

I’ll probably need another Yamiya order, so thinking of trying their’s? I do have 1/2 a dozen open gaskets sets, so may just poke through those. What do you guys recommend?

[71 V12]

Personally, genuine Honda only especially on 682!

[BenelliSEI]

Personally, genuine Honda only especially on 682!

Good point. Last time I ordered one from Honda Canada it looked +40 years old and had been poorly treated. May try again.....

[PeWe]

The sandcast forum might have recommendations about gaskets for a sandcast engine.
Yamiya's kit was good when I used it some years ago.
Blue gaskets with all holes correct like Hondas light green.

I think the head gasket was as  most other newer, 1mm thick and in need of the thicker o-rings Hondaman reminds us about.

[Prospect]

I used Athena gaskets on my k1. Seems to be ok.

[MauiK3]

Have to get those barrels off!

[BenelliSEI]

Have to get those barrels off!

No joy last attempt. Going to build a lifting bar next and suspend it for a few days!

[Don R]

 DaNG, a lucky caps lock accident. Sorry to hear they are still hanging on.

[BenelliSEI]

It’s been “hanging” for a few days. Sent lots of juice down the std holes, and been tapping away. Truthfully, more than tapping......Nothing has budged!

[RAFster122s]

It’s been “hanging” for a few days. Sent lots of juice down the std holes, and been tapping away. Truthfully, more than tapping......Nothing has budged!

Talk to an appliance repair shop...tell them of your plight and ask if they have an old beater oven they could sell you or give you for purpose of baking this block and cylinders to get them to separate. Turn it into a powdercoat oven after you finish with it for this purpose.
Baking at 450-500 might get it to free up with a few good smacks...
Just be careful you don't lose or drop a liner out of the cylinders...

[BenelliSEI]

It’s been “hanging” for a few days. Sent lots of juice down the std holes, and been tapping away. Truthfully, more than tapping......Nothing has budged!

Talk to an appliance repair shop...tell them of your plight and ask if they have an old beater oven they could sell you or give you for purpose of baking this block and cylinders to get them to separate. Turn it into a powdercoat oven after you finish with it for this purpose.
Baking at 450-500 might get it to free up with a few good smacks...
Just be careful you don't lose or drop a liner out of the cylinders...

Mmmmm ..... Heating the entire lump would make the expansion of both parts equal? Was thinking of heating from below (propane BBQ) while cooling the barrel with a fan?). Crazy thoughts?

[Don R]

 I tried a maap hand torch and a hot air gun on cylinders to remove pistons, not much luck getting things hot.  I was ready to try a rosebud tip on oxy-acetylene. Used my press instead, I put a load on each piston one at a time and went in the house. 

[BenelliSEI]

I tried a maap hand torch and a hot air gun on cylinders to remove pistons, not much luck getting things hot.  I was ready to try a rosebud tip on oxy-acetylene. Used my press instead, I put a load on each piston one at a time and went in the house.

Don..... Pistons are free, bores look good, and it had an excellent leak down. I may just leave the damn thing where it is!

[RAFster122s]

It may not be the expansion that breaks things free but the heat cycles. The pins if stuck are not of aluminum but made of steel, so their expansion won't be the same until the temps stabilize. So bake it and a few smacks while it is hot can get things to move.

[BenelliSEI]

It may not be the expansion that breaks things free but the heat cycles. The pins if stuck are not of aluminum but made of steel, so their expansion won't be the same until the temps stabilize. So bake it and a few smacks while it is hot can get things to move.

Very good point! Don’s suggested another good “pulling” tactic, so will combine the two if needed.
Thanks, both of you!

[MauiK3]

I think a heat gun will be safer than any form of torch, better heat spread and lower temperature.
It will eventually break loose.

[BenelliSEI]

Built the “Puller” and used a heat gun on the front studs, each end. Really warmed up the area of the two dowel sleeves and it finally popped.

[BenelliSEI]

Stripped down the head today, ready to try hydro blasting.

[newday777]

Stripped down the head today, ready to try hydro blasting.

Clean off all the oils before you hydro blast or the slurry will be contaminated with oil/grease. Less cutting force.

[MauiK3]

Very clever puller.
It’s really great you are saving another sandcast.

[BenelliSEI]

Stripped down the head today, ready to try hydro blasting.

Clean off all the oils before you hydro blast or the slurry will be contaminated with oil/grease. Less cutting force.

Will do.

[BenelliSEI]

Very clever puller.
It’s really great you are saving another sandcast.

Even with a lot of “pre load” and heat, it took a lot of heat and a FBH!

[BenelliSEI]

Top end is stripped and off for vapour blasting. When it returns, I’ll be tackling “fin straightening”.

[BenelliSEI]

I had a good look at the original pipes today. Both side lowers have holes where the “muffler” portion joins the headpipe. The two uppers are in much better shape. None of them have any real dings or dents, so will try and patch and polish these up. I do have a new, still in the boxes, set of Yamiya no# pipes too.

[RAFster122s]

Top end is stripped and off for vapour blasting. When it returns, I’ll be tackling “fin straightening”.

You really ought to consider straightening and any welding in those before blasting, that way you can have a consistent finish on them as any welds and grinding will be subjected to the same texturing the vapor honing does.

But, depending upon your paint finish thickness it might be a mute point.