Topic: Early Sandcast Found......

[BenelliSEI]

The front hub should a few mm's on the narrow side when compared to later units...........and is off-set for brake clearance.

Yes. Found all the right bits, and a two hole drum in the back too.

[754]

First quote in. $400 for two rims and $350 for front fender. That’s more. Than $600 in US dollars! What would you guys expect to pay? I may try a place in NY. State. It wouldn’t be much to send them down. Wow!

Not sure what you were expecting  to pay , but I am not surprised.  Half the reason I would be hesitant to chrome is the chance of damage or over chroming.... aka too shiney, does not look right..... not only exorbitant  cost , but noticeably wrong.
 How can that look better than original..   like Dennis said.. once you start. .......

[CaseyH]

I had Cambridge Chrome do the rear bumper on my 240Z 8 years ago. That was over 500 dollars then. The environmental laws make it crazy expensive to chrome in Canada.
The job they did was great. Still looks perfect.

[BenelliSEI]

Frank.... I hear you, but these parts need to be done.

Casey..... appreciate hearing that. I’ll give them a go!

[Don R]

 I've straightened some fins rally nicely and had others just snap off. I used a set of vise grip sheet metal folders and progressively tightened them as I worked my way around and squeezed down on the fins. I also used a hot air gun and propane torch to warm them up a little. I never figured out if the difference was in the metal or my technique.   
 I've got a K0 head with fins edge welded and not filed yet, I'll try to get pic's and make a thread of it.
 The first time, my welder buddy asked for broken fins to work with so I cut fins off of my worst head. Then when I got there he just wanted to weld the edges.

[754]

On sheetmetal you want to hear it to 450 F to soften it.,  not sure about cast.
 Worth buying a temp stick... don't overheat it.

[BenelliSEI]

Years ago I did one and put the whole part in the kitchen oven at about 350 degrees F (from memory). I think it was a K8. It worked out really well with a set “hammer head” v-grips.

[Stev-o]

...$350 for front fender.

Years ago, I got a quote to re-chrome a fender, about $200.  It was not for a sandy so I didnt get it done, bought a good used one for half the cost. Chrome has gotten crazy expensive and not many places around that do it anymore, there is only 1 within an hour of my home.

[BenelliSEI]

...$350 for front fender.

Years ago, I got a quote to re-chrome a fender, about $200.  It was not for a sandy so I didnt get it done, bought a good used one for half the cost. Chrome has gotten crazy expensive and not many places around that do it anymore, there is only 1 within an hour of my home.

I’m also getting continuous reminders “it’s only original once”. I may just polish and see where I end up.

[Stev-o]

...$350 for front fender.

Years ago, I got a quote to re-chrome a fender, about $200.  It was not for a sandy so I didnt get it done, bought a good used one for half the cost. Chrome has gotten crazy expensive and not many places around that do it anymore, there is only 1 within an hour of my home.

I’m also getting continuous reminders “it’s only original once”. I may just polish and see where I end up.

It is only original once. I'm in a similar boat with my recently purchased '67 CB450,  certain parts of the bike are in poor condition and could use refinishing [rear fender has paint missing]. But, I'm going to fight the urge to restore it as nearly everything is original as far as I know. Like Frank said, where would you stop?  Your bike is valuable even if some parts are in need of restoration.

[754]

The fact that it survived is remarkable. . If the rims are completely  rusty or unsafe.. then they got to be replaced..
 But to find one with all original parts is rare and noteworthy.   Even if you replace with other good original parts.
 In the 1930  and earlier range .. original  survivor bikes are usually worth more than well restored one's ..
 And guess what.. it did not take cubic money  to make it that valuable... more patiences, time and searching.
 You are doing fine you already found the carbs.. major hurdle cleared there.

 I have a question though.. I have I believe a rolled rim , it has a bit if damage .. I think it can be fixed.. but I am not sure it's 750. I suspect it  might be off an early 450 ? Anyone know if it's same part ? I should dig out my 450 parts books.
 FOUND 450 PART NO...44701-283-000  FOR RIM...did not list size , but said Daido

[hondaron]

450 rear rim would be 1.85 x 18, versus 2.15 for stock 750 rear rim

[BenelliSEI]

The fact that it survived is remarkable. . If the rims are completely  rusty or unsafe.. then they got to be replaced..
 But to find one with all original parts is rare and noteworthy.   Even if you replace with other good original parts.
 In the 1930  and earlier range .. original  survivor bikes are usually worth more than well restored one's ..
 And guess what.. it did not take cubic money  to make it that valuable... more patiences, time and searching.
 You are doing fine you already found the carbs.. major hurdle cleared there.

 I have a question though.. I have I believe a rolled rim , it has a bit if damage .. I think it can be fixed.. but I am not sure it's 750. I suspect it  might be off an early 450 ? Anyone know if it's same part ? I should dig out my 450 parts books.

Frank...... I’ve got the rims off. Next shop day I’ll take some measurements and photos you can compare to.

[BenelliSEI]

Got a bit further into it today. Much to my delight, this bike has been neglected for +35 years, but obviously never been left outside. When I went to pull the swing arm, the through bolt undid easily and then I grabbed it with my fingers and just pulled it out! Wow!

Basically have just the oil tank and engine left in place. The wheel/tire up front is an extra I had (original rims under the table). I pulled all the valve caps and everything looks clean and oily. I’ve been oiling the bores an intake valve seats. Turns over freely on the kicker and I can find all the gears.

May build a temporary start board (solenoid, start switch and toggle for coil feed) and turn it over on the starter. I’ll screw in an oil pressure gauge and see what it does.......

Rebuilding the carbs, so maybe a “3,000” mile tune up and then blow some rust out of those pipes??

[754]

Do the carbs have long handle for choke ? Is there a brace on centerstand ? They were not there on early ones..

[BenelliSEI]

Do the carbs have long handle for choke ? Is there a brace on centerstand ? They were not there on early ones..

Frank.... is the “brace” the extra stick welded to the crank? I think I have one. The carbs I have are a bit later, with the short choke handle.

[754]

The stick was not there on early ones , but don't know how long.. might show as part # change.

[Alan F.]

Rebuilding the carbs, so maybe a “3,000” mile tune up and then blow some rust out of those pipes??

If you've never uploaded a YouTube video this would be a good opportunity. Not many low number sancast first start videos on there (but maybe a few).

Edit: I count 5 by 3 people.

[bek1966]

If you've never uploaded a YouTube video this would be a good opportunity. Not many low number sancast first start videos on there (but maybe a few).

Yes, please post a video - it would be terrific to witness!  Fantastic project!

Regards,
Brad

[Terry in Australia]

Wow, I've just found your thread John, what a find! Before you go spending a squillion bucks on chrome, go to a farm supply store and buy a gallon of Phosphoric acid. Buy a big plastic tub large enough to submerge your rims halfway, fill it with the phosphoric acid and water at any ratio (1:10 is usually about what I use) and dip the rims in the tub.

Leave them in as long as you like, it won't hurt them. They'll come up like new, especially if you give them a rub with some nylon or stainless steel scourers. Same/same for your fender. I've saved hundreds, maybe thousands of bucks using phosphoric acid to remove rust from gas tanks, battery boxes, rims, fenders, etc. Unlike other acids, phosphoric acid is relatively harmless, it's used in chrome polish, toothpaste, and coca cola, among lots of other products.

I buy mine from a farm supply store as it's pure (not watered down, like the stuff they sell at hardware and auto parts stores, under various brands) and is sold to dairy farmers to clean their stainless steel tanks and milking equipment. Give it a bash John, a gallon here is around $40 AUD. Your bike looks great, wouldn't it be nice to own a sandy survivor!  

[newday777]

Wow, I've just found your thread John, what a find! Before you go spending a squillion bucks on chrome, go to a farm supply store and buy a gallon of Phosphoric acid. Buy a big plastic tub large enough to submerge your rims halfway, fill it with the phosphoric acid and water at any ratio (1:10 is usually about what I use) and dip the rims in the tub.

Leave them in as long as you like, it won't hurt them. They'll come up like new, especially if you give them a rub with some nylon or stainless steel scourers. Same/same for your fender. I've saved hundreds, maybe thousands of bucks using phosphoric acid to remove rust from gas tanks, battery boxes, rims, fenders, etc. Unlike other acids, phosphoric acid is relatively harmless, it's used in chrome polish, toothpaste, and coca cola, among lots of other products.

I buy mine from a farm supply store as it's pure (not watered down, like the stuff they sell at hardware and auto parts stores, under various brands) and is sold to dairy farmers to clean their stainless steel tanks and milking equipment. Give it a bash John, a gallon here is around $40 AUD. Your bike looks great, wouldn't it be nice to own a sandy survivor!

Good information Terry!
Do you use the food grade 85% Phosphoric acid? There are multiple different products, can you be more specific?

[BenelliSEI]

Terry..... what a good idea. I tried the in the past and forgot all about it! Around here the farmers call it “Milkstone Remover”. I’ll pick up a jug and report back.

[Terry in Australia]

Yes mate, give that a go! Over here I buy 100% PA from Milestone Chemicals under their “Phos Wash” brand. Just dont use it on cast iron, pot metal, zince plated spokes or even cast steel for long periods, or it’ll make them disappear.

[BenelliSEI]

Yes mate, give that a go! Over here I buy 100% PA from Milestone Chemicals under their “Phos Wash” brand. Just dont use it on cast iron, pot metal, zince plated spokes or even cast steel for long periods, or it’ll make them disappear.

Understood. Thanks!

[754]

Just hope it does not get in the rolled part , and then not come out..