Topic: Wheel run out, specs?

[Magpie]

Can some one please let me know what the Honda spec is wheel run out, side to side and up and down? Thanks in advance. Cheers, Cliff.

[754]

30 thou is fine ,that is  1/32 nd or 3/4 mm.
 Or better if you can, but don't worry about it..... ignore the weld seam bump. GOOD ALLOY rims will  have less run out than steel stock type.

[bryanj]

Honda manual says 3mm or 1/8 inch

[Alan F.]

I was amazed after truing my first wheels then reading the Honda specs, my front wheel came out quite well but I thought my rear was terrible. Turned out to be well inside factory specifications.

[Finnigan]

Bought a set of Rising Sun rims from 4into1 and the weld seam or 'bump' is so terrible that I wasn't able to true them after a week of trying on and off.  Should I expect all rims to have some variation of this?

[Alan F.]

All rims will have some, and I'm sure some are better than others.

[Finnigan]

Yeah...I'll try to take a video and post it but radially and axially the bump is a few mm easily.  Whats worse is its the low area of the rim and I'm unable to bring the rest of the wheel in to match without torquing the %(*&$ out of the spokes.  I'm planning on returning them but good to know what to expect later on.

[Alan F.]

How many different times have you relaced and tried to true? I can't help but wonder if a different combination of spokes and different points on the rotation of rim and hub could make any difference?

I'd heard good things on those rims but I'm sure quality varies.

[bryanj]

All steel rims will have a "bump" where the weld is, dont even atempt to true it out===you cant. Chalk a mark an inch or a bit more eithe side of it and true the rest of the rim

[Finnigan]

First time for the rim and spokes out of the box, front and back are more or less the same level of terrible.

[Magpie]

Thanks guys! Cliff.

[Don R]

 I got annoyed with one and smacked it with a plastic mallet. That fixed it right up but at the time I was sure I had ruined it. Another time I walked away for a couple weeks, loosened it all up, lubed the threads and started over. It went way easier.

[BenelliSEI]

All steel rims will have a "bump" where the weld is, dont even atempt to true it out===you cant. Chalk a mark an inch or a bit more eithe side of it and true the rest of the rim

+1 to this. Just ignore it. If  the rest of the rimis true, so is that section.....

[Alan F.]

All steel rims will have a "bump" where the weld is, dont even atempt to true it out===you cant. Chalk a mark an inch or a bit more eithe side of it and true the rest of the rim

+1 to this. Just ignore it. Of the rest of the rimis true, so is that section.....

Another way to verify this is to put your indicator in a different area, or a few different areas....

[PeWe]

The stock type steel rims have a bump that starts and ends about 10cm from the weld (4"). Total the double.
You'll see that if using a dial indicator.
A little bit up-down too if I remember correctly.

Most important you get same value before and after the weld.

[b1jackson]

My first attempt at truing just happened so this is timely.  The rims were quite rusted so the weld marks for the seam weren't easily visible but is the area normally right opposite the valve stem hole?  That seemed to be my trickier area to true and where a hump was so to speak when it spun.

[754]

You can see weld are from back side,  it will have weld marks.
 I make a Sharpie  mark about an inch away from weld , both sides and ignore that area while truing.
 The better alloy rims should be 're rolled after welding ,  and be better than most steel rims.

[Alan F.]

I make a Sharpie  mark about an inch away from weld , both sides and ignore that area while truing.

Good tip Frank, thank you.

And the tire when inflated should eliminate any run out issues, balancing the wheel/tire/tube should also improve things.

[PeWe]

All my rims had very sharp grind marks were welded. Grinded smoother and painted. Used my engine paint.
Inside only against tube I did not want to be scratched.