Topic: 1975 cb550f

[Fezzler]

That looks like a early CB1300 silencer, called the X4. Is there any stamping like SC38 on it?

I'll look for additional markings.
Closest cone shape I saw searching online was one off a Magna.

No additional markings found.  Odd to me a specific marking such as "HONMC90447" doesn't produce a precise result.

[Fezzler]

Here is where I am at. I am not claiming this is perfect.  My best attempt here. 

I have the aftermarket loom from 4-into-1 for the cb550f (I'm told David Silver Spares sells the same) with each wire mapped across the loom using a continuity tester. As you see, I labeled each section of the new loom.  Then, for each wire within each section, I did a continuity test to see which other section(s) it runs to. Then I mapped the new loom color to the Honda color as provided by the Honda wiring diagram for the cb550f.  Lastly, I took a stab at the functions/path related to the wire I found here on SOHC/4. 

I have not done anything with the lower loom yet.  I probably will figure out the lower loom as I wire the bike.

A couple of odd color selections in the aftermarket.  To name a few, R/W instead of GREEN for ground?  W/B for LB?  O/R for LB/W? Really, an Orange color for right side? (If I am correct).  Y/R instead of BROWN.  Seems like they don't have BROWN wire at the factory that makes the new loom.

Unless I got it wrong, the one item that I am confused about or lost is on the new loom, G/R may be used twice. I found it once for Clutch Switch to Silicon Rectifier and then to starter switch/solenoid and the other Headlight fuse.

[Fezzler]

So I have the aftermarket 4-into-1 wire loom colors translated to the Honda stock wiring diagram colors, including the lower wire loom. I know where everything goes and I'm ready to wire the bike up.  Maybe when the garage warms up a bit.

The only thing I need to find in the boxes of stuff from the PO (or order new ones) are the rear brake light switch and - new to me - a small two-pronged silicon rectifier that is part of the clutch safety system on the "F" models that prevents the solenoid from working if the bike is not in neutral.

Thinking out loud, in the electronics tray under the seat will be the battery, the starter solenoid, the winker switch, the small two-pronged rectifier, and the fuse box. I'll have to see if I can get the stock connectors stuffed in there or I will have to modify/streamline the loom, I assume by eliminating the bulky plastic connector housings.  I will mount the Rick's combined reg/rec somewhere it can get some air, perhaps under the tray.  I assume drilling holes in the tray to allow me to use zip ties to secure components is an approach to prevent shorts from shifting electronics?

The PO really did a job on the end of the alternator/stator connector.  All the wires are there, he just changed it from the 9-space/7-wire male plug to a smaller 6 space/wire female plug and terminated the neutral switch and put a female blade connector on the white wire.  He also added one power line with two connectors.

Probably not worth my time to reverse engineer, but I was trying to understand what the PO was attempting?  Eliminating a part of the lower harness and go right to the old Reg/Rect?  See image below.  I plan to put everything back as it is supposed to be unless, as stated above, I need to streamline parts of the harness to make it all fit in the tray under the seat or elsewhere.

PO work pictured.



 

[RAFster122s]

Likely a result of a connector he could easily source, looks like an AMP connector many electronics suppliers would normally stock.

[calj737]

Don’t put the RR in the tray under the seat. Instead mount it to the underside of the tray insuring you have ample room between it and the rear tire while under full compression. It will get much more airflow, not be bothered by exposure, and eliminate crowding under the seat and potential electrical shorts.

Another good option is to install it on the backside of the stock electric panel under the left side cover. There’s just enough room against the stock battery location (I can’t recall all the mods you’re doing and what is going where). Again, plenty of airflow, closer to original location for wiring connections, but out of the way given its size as a combined unit.

[Fezzler]

Don’t put the RR in the tray under the seat. Instead mount it to the underside of the tray insuring you have ample room between it and the rear tire while under full compression. It will get much more airflow, not be bothered by exposure, and eliminate crowding under the seat and potential electrical shorts.

Another good option is to install it on the backside of the stock electric panel under the left side cover. There’s just enough room against the stock battery location (I can’t recall all the mods you’re doing and what is going where). Again, plenty of airflow, closer to original location for wiring connections, but out of the way given its size as a combined unit.

Thanks.  I was probably not clear or misstated my intention.  I plan to do exactly what you advise and mount it UNDER the tray so it is "in the open" and afford much airflow.

How much of an improvement is the Rick's combo?  My '71 cb500 runs great but I am not opposed to the upgrade if significant improvement.

[Stev-o]

Don’t put the RR in the tray under the seat. Instead mount it to the underside of the tray insuring you have ample room between it and the rear tire while under full compression. It will get much more airflow, not be bothered by exposure, and eliminate crowding under the seat and potential electrical shorts.

Another good option is to install it on the backside of the stock electric panel under the left side cover. There’s just enough room against the stock battery location (I can’t recall all the mods you’re doing and what is going where). Again, plenty of airflow, closer to original location for wiring connections, but out of the way given its size as a combined unit.

How much of an improvement is the Rick's combo?  My '71 cb500 runs great but I am not opposed to the upgrade if significant improvement.

For casual riding, I would not say the Ricks combo is a "significant improvement".  Dont get me wrong, their products are excellent. I have not had the need to upgrade any of my bikes from a good working OEM system.

Cal may see it differently?

[calj737]

The only “upgrade” I see is IF you are re-wiring, moving the units, or opt for a Lithium battery. Else, stock works perfectly fine.

[Fezzler]

The only “upgrade” I see is IF you are re-wiring, moving the units, or opt for a Lithium battery. Else, stock works perfectly fine.

Thanks all. If it works, don't fix it!

[Fezzler]

Garage warmed up.  Let's get this thing wired.  Rear lights done.  Using Honda-like bullet connectors - soldered and crimped.  Since running two rear lights sets, created a connector adaptor.