Topic: CB500 chain care

[JBMorse]

Hi everyone!
Spring has sprung here in Northern New England, and a couple weeks ago I awoke my '71 CB500 and took it for a spin. Sadly, the chain was looking pretty haggard. Sitting in a damp shed did it no favors as it was getting rusty. But it was also very dirty, with grit and road grime all throughout the links. This chain was a cheap replacement from David Silver, new last year, with probably less than a couple thousand miles on it. But, over the years, I have had plenty of trouble with chain life, and despite being a long time rider and tinkerer, I still don't feel I have chain maintenance down, so I'd love some simple advice on how to treat my new chain once I get it.

First of all, most of you probably know the 500/550 can only use a standard roller chain, as their just isn't room for the modern o-ring type, which are supposed to have a longer life. I usually go with a DID standard 530-100 (I'm running a 37t rear sprocket). And I know are supposed to change sprockets at the same time, which I've always done, usually with JT sprockets. This last chain and sprocket change, as mentioned, was a cheaper replacement from DSS, as I had some other items on order with them at the time.

I think I know how to adjust the chain right, following the manual and checking the tension with weight on the bike. And I try to lube the chain every few hundred miles. But I'm not clear about cleaning; when to clean, how, and how often. Maybe that's the key? But my chains always seem to last only 2-5k miles, even with my attempt at careful maintenance.

I believe I am especially hard on chains, as I often ride 2 up and I don't shy away from dirt roads. My Honda is my adventure bike! It's frustrating, though, to only get a couple thousand miles out of a chain. Maybe I'm just not cut out for chain driven bikes and should be on the hunt for a Moto Guzzi       (joking of course, my CB500 is not going anywhere....)

So I guess I need to start from the beginning. Can you all give me the beginner's run through on how to adjust, lube, and clean my new chain and sprocket set? How often do you lube? How often do you typically have to adjust? What's the cleaning routine?

[bryanj]

Cant answer that, never cleaned one in my life.
Lube is just spray lube adjustment as per book but i use a 530HD not standard chain, definately NOT  O ring

[Stev-o]

If your chain is filthy, you may want to remove it, clean with a degreaser and confirm all links are not "stuck".
Then reinstall and lube.

You can also clean it on the bike with degreaser and a towel, then lube it.

Check it monthly if you are riding on dirt roads.

[goodtryer]

From the 750K Service Manual: Part 6: Wiring Diagrams, Engine Tune-up, Periodic Maintenance

http://manuals.sohc4.net/cb750k/service_manual/SM750K_6.pdf

PDF Pages 16 & 17 / Manual Pages 186 & 187

"b. Clean the chain thoroughly in a suitable solvent. Rinse in clean solvent and allow to dry. Inspect the chain for wear (joint sloppiness), stiffness and binding at the joints and broken or separated rollers. If any of these conditions exist, the chain should be replaced.

c. Immerse the chain in a pan or vessel containing a 10 to 1 ratio mixture of SAE 10W-40 engine oil and petroleum jelly (1/2 qt. oil to 5 oz. petroleum jelly) and heat to 150 to 250 degrees F, (66~100 degrees C) for approximately 10 minutes.

d. Remove the pan from the sources of heat and carefully agitate the immersed chain with a screw driver. When cool, remove the chain allowing it to hang over the pan and drain off excess lubricant. Use a cloth or rag to wipe off remaining excess lubricant."

Cheers!

[Stev-o]

Periodic Maintenance
c. Immerse the chain in a pan or vessel containing a 10 to 1 ratio mixture of SAE 10W-40 engine oil and petroleum jelly (1/2 qt. oil to 5 oz. petroleum jelly) and heat to 150 to 250 degrees F, (66~100 degrees C) for approximately 10 minutes.

Hey good man....when was the last time you did this?!  Or ever did??

[RAFster122s]

Fortnine has a pretty good review and analysis of chain lubes...

Monthly clean your chain...as indicated with degreaser and rag. If that is not sufficient on the bike, then pulling the chain and immersing it in a pan of some diesel with a stiff brush can do the job, followed by a spray to remove any suspended dirt or use another clean diesel rinse which you can use next time to clean the chain.

You can make homemade napalm fire starter gel dissolving styrofoam in the dirty diesel. Or, dispose of it at a chemical waste facility.

Buy a DID HD 530 chain and give it regular cleaning and lube every 500 miles.

If it looks dirty you need to clean it.
Getting some of the lube on your fingers and rubbing it between your fingers and if it feels gritty, then you are well past time to clean it.

Just like maintaining the tires and any other lube points and areas that require cleaning, necessary part of safely riding our bikes.
While messy chain and bar lube works well on chains and is cheap, but dirt is going to be attracted to it, requiring frequent cleaning.

I think BankerDanny reported very poor life from an inexpensive chain he bought there too.  Apparently it is poorly made cheap chinese crap.

[goodtryer]

Hey good man....when was the last time you did this?!  Or ever did??

Ummm... never! I just remembered reading it & was passing it along. Seemed crazy when I read it.

The only facilities I have for heating stuff in the garage are a heat gun and a torch; not really a good match for this. And then there's the question of what to do with the residual.

To be honest, I just try to keep the chains lubed. It's worked out pretty well so far.

Cheers

[evinrude7]

i've read about using kerosene to clean chains.  i've done it and had good results.  a long soak in kerosene will get a lot of #$%* out of the chain.  an old tooth brush is also helpful in cleaning.  as far as adjustment goes, i usually check my chain slack every time i ride.  with the weather changing i've noticed adjustment has been needed more often than usual.  not sure if that's because of the weather but could be.  it's tough to give an absolute on frequency of lubing but because i check the chain every time i ride the bike, i'm touching the chain.  if the chain seems dry i lube it.  i've used white lithium grease, motor oil (which is messy) and actual "chain lube".  never noticed a difference in effectiveness of each one.  maybe try using different lubes to see what works best for your chain and where you ride your bike. 

[RAFster122s]

[Bodi]

"when was the last time you did this?"
Not too sure, 10 years or so?
Don't knock it, it isn't really so hard and you just pour the goo in a jar for next time.
But modern chain lube is similar and works as well. You just want a heavy lube in a solvent.

[dave500]

i use two chains to one set of sprockets,put a new set on with new chain and check the wear in a few months,itll pull off the back of the sprocket easy half a link anyway?even on my dirt bike i use a non o ring heavy duty chain,last the same for me as o ring,and cheaper and lighter.

[PeWe]

Chain cleaner is a good thing for cleaning. I have used it for carbs, oil pump to remove heavy dirt and corrosion.
Motorex work really good. I have Motul now but it is not that tough as Motorex.

Chain lube must be tested on bikes.
I read about how good Maxima Chain Wax was.
Started to use it on my chain  that had got Motorex Chain lube for some years and had not much stretch. Slack did not change when rolling bike either.
(DC chains strongest 530 chain with solid rivets)

It took not long to discover red-brownish dust around sprocket cover. After around 3000 km the chain was shot.

 I think the x-rings did not get enough lubrication with the chain wax so they worn out quickly letting water inside rollers producing rust that splashed around the sprocket cover causing the red-brown sticky powder.
Chain became very sloppy sideways and also uneven stretch.
Chain looked to snap if throttling too hard as I told the Dyno guy at last dyno last year.

This indicate how important this is. A lubrication comparison must be done on bikes and see how long the chain will survive. In various weather conditions with rain as well.

It seems that the lubrication of the X/O-rings was forgotten. Focus on a lube that does not make rear wheel dirty.

If chain is covered with sand, important to clean asap.

I'm sure nitrile withstand chemicals much better than a thin party baloon.
Carbs have nitrile o-rings. Should they be replaced if a baloon say bang after pouring fuel over it?

10 equal bikes with new chain and sprockets on a very long trip using different lubes can show better.
That combined with tires and other equipment can be a useful test.

[JBMorse]

thanks everyone! I watched a couple of those youtube videos again, and something stood out to me in one of Ari Henning's videos: He wiped excess chain lube off after spraying his chain. I've never really done that. So maybe I've been over lubricating my chains all these years, attracting more road grit and wearing the chain faster.
So, I will be more careful with excess lube in the future and see how it goes!

[ekpent]

 Wiping off the excess is that much less that will be slinging around the rear rim and tire and other places.

[Alan F.]

Does anyone ride a mile or two to warm their chain before cleaning? I've done it but not every time, it seems to help the cause.

I'll confess to using WD-40 on o-ring and non-o-ring chains. With the bike on the center stand I turn the wheel and hose the chain with WD, then clean the crud off with shop rags and repeat until very little crud comes off. It starts off as crunchy crud then the residual black or dark gray crud comes off. If the dirt is especially crunchy or heavy I'll spray and wipe short sections of chain at a time before morning on. I'll go about 3 rounds per cleaning with a few minutes in between, 5 rags or so in total. Once clean I spray a light coat of WD and let it sit at least 15 minutes while I clean off the rear wheel etc, WD-40 is handy for this too.


Next bike I'll try a trigger bottle of kerosene for heavy cleaning.

[seanbarney41]

Wd40 is a great degreaser.  Just be aware, when you degrease a standard chain, it needs to be lubed.  Wd40 is NOT a suitable lubricant.

[Stev-o]

  Wd40 is NOT a suitable lubricant.

Good point, Sean, a lot of people dont realize that.  Would be excellent to clean a wet chain, though.

WD = Water Displacement  And BTW - There is a product WD40 Bike Chain Lube for bicycle chains, but I will not use it on my motorcycles.

https://www.wd40.com/products/wd-40-bike-all-conditions-lube/

I like the Swiss product Motorex Road Lube, one of you guys recommend it, used it yesterday on my Z1.

The manufacturer claims that this is an “Extremely high pressure resistant lubricating film. Highly adhesive. Resists fly-off. Water resistant. Thermally stable. Reduces wear and friction”.

https://www.chapmoto.com/motorex-622-road-strong-chain-lube-spray.html?sku=275-0069&gclid=Cj0KCQjwse-DBhC7ARIsAI8YcWJzlWqaC6G9oaLkWTwklwV_T1UBceCVRhuRK-koiCYGVwo2iD-SfL0aAkPCEALw_wcB

[flatlander]

I like the Swiss product Motorex Road Lube, one of you guys recommend it, used it yesterday on my Z1.

ha yes, that was me. and i'm still using it. usually i ride around a bit to make the chain warm, then apply it and wipe off any excess.

[Stev-o]

I like the Swiss product Motorex Road Lube, one of you guys recommend it, used it yesterday on my Z1.

ha yes, that was me. and i'm still using it.

There ya go, thx FL

[Kevin D]

Periodic Maintenance
c. Immerse the chain in a pan or vessel containing a 10 to 1 ratio mixture of SAE 10W-40 engine oil and petroleum jelly (1/2 qt. oil to 5 oz. petroleum jelly) and heat to 150 to 250 degrees F, (66~100 degrees C) for approximately 10 minutes.

Hey good man....when was the last time you did this?!  Or ever did??

I have cooked my dirtbike chain at the shop. There was an electric hot plate. After cleaning the chain I got a throwaway pie pan, put the chain in, filled the pan with STP, and heated it. It was smelly, very messy, kinda dangerous but the chain was thoroughly lubed and everybody else at the shop was pissed at me.

[Alan F.]

Wd40 is a great degreaser.  Just be aware, when you degrease a standard chain, it needs to be lubed.  Wd40 is NOT a suitable lubricant.

I completely agree, it's an ok cleaning solvent though, easily applied and carried with you on the road.

I used it solely on an o-ring chain, worked very well.

[Airborne 82nd]

I started using PJ 1 blue label for a few years and I like the way it stays put
https://pj1.com/products/#lubrication

[jonda500]

Does anyone know of a NON o-ring specific chain lube? I used to use a synthetic off road chain lube that was good stuff - I think it was called enduroline, but I can't find it or any lube for standard chains any more so I have just been using gear oil which is a bit messy, but at least it's NOT sticky so it wipes off very easily!
John

[PeWe]

I like the Swiss product Motorex Road Lube, one of you guys recommend it, used it yesterday on my Z1.

ha yes, that was me. and i'm still using it.

There ya go, thx FL

This one, right?
https://www.motorex.com/en-us/moto-line/chain-care/chainlube-road-strong/

I like it too as my chain...


CRC chain spray something I tested 79- early 80's on a non o-ring chain.
The chain looked lubed when the lube was more like a sticky glue. It could not float and lube properly. Chain killed very quick. Sprockets did not look nice either.
I think it was the chain that lost many rollers. Cheap and weak.
Just for the picture only.
https://www.caulfieldindustrial.com/p/crc-30533-ac-500ml-adhesive-lubricant-chain-lube/p-124674

[pjlogue]

I clean my chain by removing it from the bike.  I take not on the direction the chain was installed.  (i.e., mark the outside and link 1 and 2 so I know the side and direction the chain came off the bike) This is VERY important!  I use Kerosine in a pan and slosh the chain around and will give it 2 rinses or until I don't see grit in the bottom of the pan.  Wipe it and hang it to dry and then give it a good soaking with PJ-1 chain lube. You want a lube that won't sling off.  I would avoid dirt roads!

Reversing a power transmission chains direction of travel will cause it to wear very quickly and once it starts, the chains life is greatly reduced. Reversing back to the original travel direction at this point will not stop the wear.  The damage is already done.

-P.