Topic: 1971 CB500 clutch not disengaging

[bdillworth]

Any one have a early 1971 Cb500?

I’m having troubles with my clutch not disengaging. I have searched the internet for hours soon hours.. no real answer.
My issue,

In 1st gear when I release the clutch lever the engine wants to stall on me (no matter how much throttle I give it). Here’s what I have done so far to the clutches.

Adjusted clutch cable at lever and side cover (not stretched) pulls really good.
Removed clutch basket
Replaced friction discs and steels (soaked in oil)
Reassembled back on bike.
Tried pushing it around in 5th gear to free up plates but I don’t think they’re stuck.

Could I have put the pressure plate on too tight?

I had the clutch cover off and pulled the clutch lever in and I can see the pressure plate moving out and in about a 1/8 inch.

Looking at the parts list I’m wondering if the shims need to go in between baskets? Also there’s 1 different steel plate, not sure where that needs to be when assembled.

[bryanj]

Is it a true 71 which has a different steel plate held on with a wire circlip as in the picture(which came frommy parts book) or has it the later centre hub where the 1st plate is cast as part of the hub?

No where in your description do you mention adjusting the clutch adjuster on the lh cover

[bdillworth]

Is it a true 71 which has a different steel plate held on with a wire circlip as in the picture(which came frommy parts book) or has it the later centre hub where the 1st plate is cast as part of the hub?

No where in your description do you mention adjusting the clutch adjuster on the lh cover

Noted that I did adjustments at the side cover too. It is a true 71
I do believe

[bryanj]

So do you have the loose plate held by a circlip?

[bdillworth]

I will need to drain oil then disassemble the clutch to find out. I am doing that this week, so I’ll have more info needed.

Shims go behind the snap ring (see diagram)? That’s how I currently have them on the basket.

 

So do you have the loose plate held by a circlip?

[bryanj]

I think so but would have to check the manual, there are 3 different thicknesses of shim that need selecting to give correct end float. The parts book only shows the one type of centre but there are 2.
Things that normaly cause a bad clutch in order of comonality are:-
1 bad cable
2 missing ball bearing in mechanism
3 broken pushrod (supposed to be one piece)
4 crack in adjuster mechanism
5 warped plates---both fibre and steel

[bdillworth]

Yes I have two shims. Shop manual doesn’t specify exact location or mention them (or I have over read).

Cable feels solid.
I have the bearing in tact.
Pushrod is in one piece, not bent either.
Adjuster mech is working properly.
Plates are not warped and have new friction discs.

I watched a YouTube video on how to install/remove clutch basket on the cb500 (he had a 72), he put the two shims in between clutch center and outer. Also, he had washers in the clutch plate (not in the diagram) then springs, then another set of thicker washers to bolt the pressure plate back on.

I’m going to try that method as soon as I can drain my oil.



 

I think so but would have to check the manual, there are 3 different thicknesses of shim that need selecting to give correct end float. The parts book only shows the one type of centre but there are 2.
Things that normaly cause a bad clutch in order of comonality are:-
1 bad cable
2 missing ball bearing in mechanism
3 broken pushrod (supposed to be one piece)
4 crack in adjuster mechanism
5 warped plates---both fibre and steel

[bryanj]

D NOT put extra washers on the springs, he must have been wearing a ten gallon hat and spurs

[bdillworth]

The YouTube video is look a bit suspect!
Looking back at the shop manual... it states the shims go behind the snap ring. So I have everything correct so far.

[bdillworth]

SOLVED

Turns out the clutch was working properly the whole time.

My issues were 2-3 cylinders not firing. Found out that my black power wire running to coils was unplugged/detached. You guessed it, the bike runs better now too. Shifts fine though all gears.

Thanks bryanj for going back and fourth with me.

[bryanj]

No problem, i own the earliest known 500 but its nothing like original. Very eary crankcases are a different shape at the front and are becomming a dit like sandcast 750 but nothing like as expensive

[bdillworth]

How would I be able to tell how early my 500 is?

 

No problem, i own the earliest known 500 but its nothing like original. Very eary crankcases are a different shape at the front and are becomming a dit like sandcast 750 but nothing like as expensive

[bryanj]

Build date should be on the vin plate and engine number would help. The part in question is the top of the front crankcase just below the cylinders at the front, if you can put up a pic of that it would help