Topic: Help, Broke Down Waukegan IL - Starter Problems

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

I believe this is for 75 model, not sure

Correct. FYI the 75 and 76 CB750F are the same

[scottly]

The little box was cracked, some pieces fell apart

Someone on here was 3-D printing replacements for that little box.

[Alan F.]

The little box was cracked, some pieces fell apart

Someone on here was 3-D printing replacements for that little box.

Found it: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,163170.50.html

Looks like it's still available too.

[YoungBlood]

Awesome! Ordering now. Since the housing was so jacked up, I jerry rigged the contact plate to the wired plate with some copper wire. I wrapped the black/red wire shut, thus closing the circuit and allowing the lights to operate when the key is on the on position. Then re-used the cracked in two plastic housing by electrical taping it closed with the contact plates inside of it. Thanks Alan, I have saved all the other little pieces: ball bearing, big spring, button with tiny spring inside of it, and the larger plate. At the moment, the bike's lights work as normal! About to take her for a spin.

Will give an update when I receive the 3D print box.

[Alan F.]

Glad it works for the interim. But I only suggested bagging the tiny parts, you'd only get one chance to keep them together before chaos took them over.
Scottly was the one who pointed to Smudgemo's 3D printed part. I bought two, shipping is $9.99 and tax and, and, and. It's structured for bigger quantities I guess. I'm glad it's available.

[YoungBlood]

Yep, about 21$ for box, still not bad! Thanks for the rec. Scottly.

New question: Everything is working but the rear running light. Front brake lever works turning on rear brake light. Rear brake pedal works for turning on rear brake light. Initially I swapped the brown wire with the green/yellow wire when going home last night. It kept the rear light on constantly. After all the work today, I bulleted the brown to brown, gr/yw gr/yw, but no light. Did swapping these do something to the circuit?

Is it possible the bulb is bad? Or am I asking a dumb question, and I never knew my bike never had a running rear light!?

[YoungBlood]

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=133945.0

This post states there is no rear running light, only the front light. Am I coo-koo or what, no rear running lights! How did I never notice, and that sure doesn't sound legal here in Illinois.

[Alan F.]

I dunno, key on? Bulb good? Fuse good? Connections at tail light solid?
Cover the basics.

No there will always be a red rear running light using the filament that isn't the brake light.

[YoungBlood]

Will do Alan, raining for the moment. I was volt testing the bullet connectors, but it finally dawned on me I should be doing this at the rear where the bulb is (then the rain started). Is there a way to test a bulb, or will that filament be visibly broken if not working?

[Don R]

 You can look it may be visibly broken or hold the bulb body to ground and the end contacts to 12 volts one at a time.

[Alan F.]

If your meter measures resistance you can use it to test bulbs and fuses if it's hard to tell visually. Fuses will have low or no resistance, bulbs will have some but not infinite resistance and may glow faintly during testing. Disconnect them from the circuit to test them.

[YoungBlood]

Thanks guys. I am really appreciative of all the help everyone has offered since I have joined. Today and yesterday's comments made my life a whole lot easier than if I was without you all!

[Alan F.]

That means a lot, very cool of you to say so.

[YoungBlood]

I'd buy you guys a round of beers if you were in Chicago! Also, the bulb's running light filament was visibly broken. Just replaced it, all lights are a go.

New problem... I'll start a new post.

[Don R]

 It's fun when someone has a need, listens, tries a couple suggestions and finds the problem. Thanks for the feedback and be careful, I've ridden to Chicago for beers with a few these guys before.

[Alan F.]

Yeah Don, no ask/argue cycle followed by changing out unrelated parts followed by more ask/argue. It was really nice to be shown the difference.

[YoungBlood]

Don, well I stand by what I say. Do DM me if you or anyone else bomb through Chicago. I sometimes know how to take the cotton out of my ears and put it in my mouth, doesn't always happen, but I'm catching a general pattern of good/accurate feedback from you all in troubleshooting.
Alan, arguing is for philosophers, I leave that to my studies.

[bryanj]

I think you are getting confused between running lights and sidelights.
Running lights are the small filaments in the front blinkers fed by orange/white wire one side and blue/white wire the other. The US models don not have a front SIDE light(small bulb in headlamp reflector).

There is a red SIDE light in the rear which is the small filament in the rear bulb with the big filament being the stop light, brown wire is side light green/yellow brake light solid green is ground. There are no running lights in the rear blinkers
There are 3 position on the ignition switch
1 off ( key can be removed)
2 on for ignition and SIDE lights(key can not be removed)
3 SIDE lights only( key can be removed)

If rear red light does not work in position 3 chances are the filament is blown

[Bodi]

"Bodi, when you say a "black wire", do you mean running my own wire aside from the stock wiring? Or is there a spare black wire just lying around somewhere in the headlight assembly?"

Sorry I know this is late.
Not sure on a 750F, the switchpod probably connects to the main harness under the tank. Probably no extra black there but they often have four-way females and may have an unused one, but if you disconnect the black to that switch you will have an open one . The headlight power wire should have a male end as it's a load, and can just plug into black.
For "always on" lighting bikes that only disabled the starter button lighting cutout. For electric start you have to get more inventive, there are some simple little SPST buttons that will fit in the existing pod hole and get the starter working but it will need the power wire reconnected. I try to not change the original harness wires on such mods.

<edit - as I understand the schematic, disconnecting the switchpod power black also disconnects the kill switch power and thus the coil power - so don't do that!!>

[YoungBlood]

Thanks Bodi, I won't do that! Scottly has helped me understand that black power wire is also fed from the 15A fuse. For the time being I have the lights powered always on, I am not engaging the starter button for electric start, kick only. I was having problems with 15A fuse by closing the circuit between black and black/red with some copper wire since it was the starter button assembly that internally self-destructed. Scottly seems spot on that I was grounding the black to the starter assembly by the copper wrapping I made. I believe the problem is solved for the time being, I have the replacement start button housing on the way, but I'm missing the contact plate. Things are working out, thank you for the advice.

[YoungBlood]

Scavenge find off of a 86 goldwing 1000. Box is still intact too! Thanks Alan for help cross-list compatible starter switch housings. I think I paid 15 off eBay.

[Alan F.]

Sweet, good photo showing what goes where too!

[Bankerdanny]

Awesome! Ordering now. Since the housing was so jacked up, I jerry rigged the contact plate to the wired plate with some copper wire. I wrapped the black/red wire shut, thus closing the circuit and allowing the lights to operate when the key is on the on position. Then re-used the cracked in two plastic housing by electrical taping it closed with the contact plates inside of it. Thanks Alan, I have saved all the other little pieces: ball bearing, big spring, button with tiny spring inside of it, and the larger plate. At the moment, the bike's lights work as normal! About to take her for a spin.

Will give an update when I receive the 3D print box.

I've used the 3D printed reissue 2x. Worked great the first time, the 2nd not so much. The little circuit board wouldn't seat properly so I ended up buying a new control from 4into1. I also have Hondaman's starter button saver relay.