So I made a degree wheel and taped four corners onto an old cd. I was able to secure in just behind the washer of the 23 mm nut. Sat in there like a charm. I then took some wire and bent up one end, and stuffed it into the top boss screw hole. This served as my marker.
I took out the 1 and 4 spark plugs and loosened two and three. I put a screw driver, the adapter piece that has two different ends into the spark hole on top of the piston. The side I had inserted was a flat head screw driver. I rotated my crank to the fire position, inserted the screw driver, and read the letter stampings on the side for a marker on the screw driver. As it reached the highest position, I made a note of the degree. Then kept going until it descended a hair. I took that degree reading, divided it by two and found tdc. I was untrustworthy with myself so I repeated this process several times. Each time I found tdc to be a bit (about a degree) retarded from the actual T marker. Knowing this was the fully counter clockwise direction of the slop or play in the advancer I decided it must be wearing unidirectional in the clockwise position. This is just as PeWe said.
Next I went to do the timing. I didn’t need to do the shim technique because my points do not adjust, I checked. I also don’t understand why a shim would be used in setting the timing because I have to rotate the main timing plate regardless.
I’m doing the timing, I decided to keep the small 10mm nut a bit loose, I then used a 23 mm socket, and applied pressure against the nut when rotating so it did not slip off the holding tab. I would rotate past the fire mark, into the retarded timing zone about three degrees. I then would take off my 23 mm socket, and adjust the timing mechanism counterclockwise. Thus finding the true Fire mark. From here I adjusted the main plate until my 12v light would kick off from the on position. Tighten everything down, and double check my work. Same process for the 2/3.
I knew my 1/4 condenser was bad, so I threw another back on.
I put the k and n filter back in, cleaned and oiled, made sure the air screws were 1 turn out from seating.
Symptoms the bike currently displays:
Past 1/2 turn of throttle, whether I’m in any gear, the bike starts to hesitate. Next I will check the fuel levels with the clear tube method, but tomorrow. I’ve got to get to work tonight. Also, all the oem parts will be in by the weekend, so hopefully I will be able to put those on, correct the fuel level of the floats, and mix some jb weld with that other stuff 2Tired mentioned to secure the advancer in the fully clockwise position.
2Tired, if I do not secure that mechanism in place, I run the risk of the advancer advancing at the wrong time and position on the crank shaft. Correct? I say this because the crank shafts torque shifts the mechanism back into the clockwise wearing position. I think I may get an metal tube of the right diameter ~4 mm, with a 3mm id and cut it in half to push the advancer to stay in the counter clockwise position. Opinions?
Here is a picture of where I was finding TDC to be approximately, keep in mind this is at the full clock-wise position of the play in the dowel hole. When moving it over counter-clockwise the mechanism advances about three degrees. Still retarded from the actual T mark, however, I knew this is not possible and must be just the few variance of error I had with using a cut out degree wheel and a screw driver. I also noticed that on the pin with the spring, there was a red mark. I did not make that mark, but I used an etcher to scratch a line. Both are very close to one another. Perhaps a PO had done the same technique?
